Gareth H

Advice from the knowledgable please.
I picked up my C2 a couple of weeks ago, it has been in storage for 9 years (done 40 miles in that time), before it went into storage it had an engine out service that included new clutch and flywheel.
I have now done 3-400 miles, the clutch bite point was very low, but seemed to come up as the car was driven, but now the clutch won’t disengage (pumping the pedal doesn’t help) I’m hoping it needs bleeding, does this sound like a symptom? Or is it likely to be something else, like slave cylinder?
Thanks
S

orangecurry

With that history, I would imagine the seals on either or both cylinders will have hardened/turned to mush/broken into pieces now on recent use.

I would
1) bleed from the slave and see what emerges
try it - I imagine no difference
2) replace slave
then if still no good
3) replace main

Good luck.

71-3.0-911

This. Unless you have the invoice from the clutch job to see what may or may not have been replaced, the process above will fix your issue. With the age of these cars, the slave is usually the first to go. I'd start there if bleeding doesn't resolve.

Gareth H

Thanks chaps

71-3.0-911

You're welcome! When bleeding, make sure to follow the instruction on fluid level carefully. The reservoir is shared with the brake system and getting air into either is a bit of a pain to get out. Good luck!

samurai_k

The clutch hydraulics is a very simple system in our cars. I would do flush/bleed of the brakes and clutch together to determine the root cause of the problem you are facing. It could be you have moisture or air (clutch fluid absorbs moisture from the environment) which would cause a mushy/lack of engagement of the clutch and brakes.

IainM

Does the pedal still have good feel? Low resistance And good spring back?
are you losing fluid? Check around the pedals and in the transmission undercover (or see if level dropping in reservoir)
when bleeding the clutch fill to the brim and top up when you hit the max mark. I never got a good bleed with the Motive pressure method. Always had to do the old school 2 person pump-hold-release method

Gareth H

Just a quick update, turned out to be the master cylinder which was replaced and all was well until ………

The car stopped running on the 200 mile drive home, got recovered and when I started to try to work out what the problem was, discovered the starter motor making this noise, which I assume is the problem, have ordered a new pump, just hoping it’s not caused by another issue (poss blockage?)

71-3.0-911

Starter motor, seems doubtful based on location and sound? That sounds very strange. Failing fuel pump? Any electrical issues?

Gareth H

Sorry, was half asleep when I typed that, meant to say fuel pump!

71-3.0-911

I'm betting replacing the fuel pump will solve your issues. It is a simple DIY. Pump is accessed under a panel near center of front of car. A few 10mm bolts and it comes off. Pull off battery terminals to be safe and be gentile with fittings. Once replaced start car and make sure you have no leaks. Then button up and you're good for probably another 100k. My pump was quite loud when I replaced it. However, it never sounded like your attached file.

Edward

Hmmm, I have never heard that noise in the 20+ years of ownership! But given the age of our 993s, the likelihood of a dead/dying fuel pump is great. At 186k miles I had replaced mine last summer. Straightforward DIY job. Read up on it, have shop towels at the ready for light spillage, and you'll be fine.

Edward

Gareth H

A bit further forward, put power onto the fuel pump (jumping the relay) and it runs without a problem, so I’m assuming the problem is with the ECU or one of the inputs to it, waiting for the weather to die down before I investigate

71-3.0-911

What is the status of your DME relay? Try jumpering power from the DME relay pins to verify fault goes away.