Detailing the rubber molding
#1
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When you wax your car and get wax and polish and
crap all over the window modlings and windshield moldings
how do you get it to return to the black color. Please
answer anything but amour all!!
thanks
crap all over the window modlings and windshield moldings
how do you get it to return to the black color. Please
answer anything but amour all!!
thanks
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I use Mother's Back to Black. I really like it for the inner wheelwells, although WD-40 does just as well, but leaves a little residue.
B to B isn't a dye, so you can use it on any color plastic.
B to B isn't a dye, so you can use it on any color plastic.
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I used Forever Black from Performance Products at about 50K miles. I masked off the car paint areas first. Time for a repeat application.
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OG, I would be at the rumble if I had to drive all the way to LA. Cambria is a down hwy 101 and back hwy 1 in one day for me.
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Zymol doesn't leave that dry wax residue on the rubber, but I use Black Again for when the rubber/plastic starts fading from the sun.
If I'm going to use an orbital or rotary polisher, I've learned through bitter experience to protect the trim, furry sunroof seal, etc with blue painter's masking tape.
If I'm going to use an orbital or rotary polisher, I've learned through bitter experience to protect the trim, furry sunroof seal, etc with blue painter's masking tape.
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Thats how I did it was with the orbital. WHile we are on the
topic-- I was using the 3M finishing polish and as I polish it
it turns to a hard glaze that is hell to get off. What am I doint wrong??
too long not long enough?? what is the process. do you finish it off
with a microfiber towel. HOW DO I AVOID THE HARD GLAZE??!!
topic-- I was using the 3M finishing polish and as I polish it
it turns to a hard glaze that is hell to get off. What am I doint wrong??
too long not long enough?? what is the process. do you finish it off
with a microfiber towel. HOW DO I AVOID THE HARD GLAZE??!!
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OldGuy,
I've had the same problem. I ended up scratching/marring the plastic rear quarter paint protectors trying to get the stuff off. I'll be looking to replace one soon.
Shawn
I've had the same problem. I ended up scratching/marring the plastic rear quarter paint protectors trying to get the stuff off. I'll be looking to replace one soon.
Shawn
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Vinylex by Lexol is the best. My Louvers looked terrible from the car being the AZ sun for much of its life. I tried mothers B2B and it worked ok for a day and then went back to grey. I used Vinylex and they looked as black as new. That was a month ago and they still look great.
If you have a lot of old wax to remove I suggest using a cleaner like P21S Total Car cleaner (or S100 total Cycle cleaner which is the same, yet cheaper and easier to find in Harley shops) and a soft toothbrush, then dry and Vinylex and it will look new
Jon
If you have a lot of old wax to remove I suggest using a cleaner like P21S Total Car cleaner (or S100 total Cycle cleaner which is the same, yet cheaper and easier to find in Harley shops) and a soft toothbrush, then dry and Vinylex and it will look new
Jon
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Klasse All in One is terrific to use (not a wax - polish) and can be truly used on the entire car (I use it on the windows also - blows rain x away). If you want to use a wax on top of the polish, I would recommend p21s - really great to put on and remove - leaves an amazing shine (which works well with the depth provided by the Klasse AIO) and shouldn't add any residue to your moldings.
I agree with Jon that p21s/s100 is a very good cleaner product (along with Vinylex for the shine).
I agree with Jon that p21s/s100 is a very good cleaner product (along with Vinylex for the shine).
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Regarding the polishing question, I have run into the same problem and you do end up leaving more marks than you removed just trying to get the stuff off.
My solution (don't know if it is right, but works for me) is to apply with the thin blue bonnet cover and work a small area at a time. Remove while still wet with microfibre. Polish works while wet not dry. Since you are not leaving a thin coat like w/a wax, you want to remove when it is still wet. I have also used the thicker foam pad to apply, but found that absorbs alot of the moisture in the polish and can dry pretty quickly.
Stick w/the blue bonnet cover and don't let it dry...should be fine.
My solution (don't know if it is right, but works for me) is to apply with the thin blue bonnet cover and work a small area at a time. Remove while still wet with microfibre. Polish works while wet not dry. Since you are not leaving a thin coat like w/a wax, you want to remove when it is still wet. I have also used the thicker foam pad to apply, but found that absorbs alot of the moisture in the polish and can dry pretty quickly.
Stick w/the blue bonnet cover and don't let it dry...should be fine.