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Got my immobilizer key from Stevens Creek Porsche so I could program a new key fob. Found out my door light doing double blinking when locked. Now I need to figure out how to solve that problem first before I could program the key.
Read that radio anti-theft wire (The Green Wire) could be improperly grounded (a common issue, Update on 5/21/23 - CONFIRMED). But now I need the tools to get the PCCM out. Looks like they are different from other Porsche radio removal keys! Frustrating.
I don't mind buying a set but couldn't find it online anywhere. Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by flyweight; May 21, 2023 at 10:33 AM.
Got my immobilizer key from Stevens Creek Porsche so I could program a new key fob. Found out my door light doing double blinking when locked. Now I need to figure out how to solve that problem first before I could program the key.
Read that radio wire grounding (The Green Wire) could be an issue. But now I need the tools to get the PCCM out. Looks like they are different from other Porsche radio removal keys! Frustrating.
I don't mind buying a set but couldn't find it online anywhere. Any help is appreciated.
That's not a problem when coding FOBs. You need to just disarm system, open the door, insert the key, and turn-on the ignition. After about 15 seconds, the alarm light will go off, then cycle the key and wait for the flashing alarm light.
That's not a problem when coding FOBs. You need to just disarm system, open the door, insert the key, and turn-on the ignition. After about 15 seconds, the alarm light will go off, then cycle the key and wait for the flashing alarm light.
This doesn't seem to work for me. I did get the flashing 15 seconds after cycling the switch. Then I proceeded to put in the four digits. But after that, the light came on without flashing.
This doesn't seem to work for me. I did get the flashing 15 seconds after cycling the switch. Then I proceeded to put in the four digits. But after that, the light came on without flashing.
Tried three times the same result.
Then your four digit code is incorrect for your immobilizer. This can occur when the ignition switch contacts bounce causing incorrect digit entries. This can also occur
when the immobilizer has been replaced without the four code having been updated, e.g. by a Porsche dealer or the previous owner.
Then your four digit code is incorrect for your immobilizer. This can occur when the ignition switch contacts bounce causing incorrect digit entries. This can also occur
when the immobilizer has been replaced without the four code having been updated, e.g. by a Porsche dealer or the previous owner.
Thanks for the input. As I read more, my alarm seems to behave differently from others. For example, when I locked the car with the key fob, the door light stayed off for 10 seconds then started to double-flash. Other people's door light would do immediate fast flash before slowing down to single flashes. Does this indicate something?
Thanks for the input. As I read more, my alarm seems to behave differently from others. For example, when I locked the car with the key fob, the door light stayed off for 10 seconds then started to double-flash. Other people's door light would do immediate fast flash before slowing down to single flashes. Does this indicate something?
Do you have both of these documents (one pdf and one png) (I saved them a long time ago - I think published by ECU Doctors.)
Specifically, look @ the red callout about double-flashing and the 9 check-mark components that are managed by the immobilizer that might not be working properly.
Interested in hearing what you find out w.r.t. what is causing the double flashing (one of the microswitches not working?)
Do you have both of these documents (one pdf and one png) (I saved them a long time ago - I think published by ECU Doctors.) Specifically, look @ the red callout about double-flashing and the 9 check-mark components that are managed by the immobilizer that might not be working properly.
Interested in hearing what you find out w.r.t. what is causing the double flashing (one of the microswitches not working?)
The immobilizer doesn't control the door LEDs, the alarm ECU does.
Thanks for the input. As I read more, my alarm seems to behave differently from others. For example, when I locked the car with the key fob, the door light stayed off for 10 seconds then started to double-flash. Other people's door light would do immediate fast flash before slowing down to single flashes. Does this indicate something?
The double flashing means one of the following:
1) Either or both door jamb microswitches closed
2) frunk microswitch closed
3) engine lid microswitch closed
4) Glovebox microswitch closed
5) Radio ground wire NOT grounded
All microswitches CLOSE (ground) when the item is OPEN.
There's a 2-pin connector close to the frunk and engine lid microswitches you can unplug to see if that clears the fault.
If either door jamb switches is stuck closed, the cabin lights and frunk light will be on.
Ditto the glovebox light if it's switch is stuck.
If none of those are the problem, pull the radio and see if the green wire is attached (below)
BTW, if you're using the ECU Docs procedure, everywhere it says "ON-OFF" in steps 6 and 8, change to "OFF-ON".
Thanks for the input. As I read more, my alarm seems to behave differently from others. For example, when I locked the car with the key fob, the door light stayed off for 10 seconds then started to double-flash. Other people's door light would do immediate fast flash before slowing down to single flashes. Does this indicate something?
This is typical for all the 993s I've worked on over the past 10+ years, i.e. the double-flash timing.
The double flashing means one of the following:
1) Either or both door jamb microswitches closed
2) frunk microswitch closed
3) engine lid microswitch closed
4) Glovebox microswitch closed
5) Radio ground wire NOT grounded
All microswitches CLOSE (ground) when the item is OPEN.
There's a 2-pin connector close to the frunk and engine lid microswitches you can unplug to see if that clears the fault.
If either door jamb switches is stuck closed, the cabin lights and frunk light will be on.
Ditto the glovebox light if it's switch is stuck.
If none of those are the problem, pull the radio and see if the green wire is attached (below)
BTW, if you're using the ECU Docs procedure, everywhere it says "ON-OFF" in steps 6 and 8, change to "OFF-ON".
Just to confirm: for PCCM, unlike the original radio's anti-theft mechanism, this green connector shall NOT be grounded. Is this correct?
Got the removal tools from @RudyP . Thank you! Pulled the PCCM out in 5 seconds!
I believe this is the green wire, and I think it is connected to a metal part of car. Haven't figured out how to disconnect it yet. Maybe I can just cut it? What do you all think?
Well I couldn't remove the glove compartment and almost stripped 2 out of the 3 screws in the process. Never cursed so much after my attempt to remove my 993 seats 3 months ago.
I did, however, managed to remove the 4 screws inside the compartment and that was enough for me to loosen up the green wire. Taped it up and reconnected the negative battery terminal. Locked the car and I got the fast flashing followed by SINGLE flashing!