Recently I had my wheels powder coated.
Yesterday I went to change the oil and found the wheel nuts to be what appeared to be seized.
I was unable to free the nuts with an air-impact wrench.
I ended up standing and in some cases bouncing with my full weight on a breaker bar to crack the nuts loose on all 4 wheels to retorque them.
Some of the nuts made a galling sound when they began to give way.
I called the wheel shop who informed me that they used a torque wrench to mount the wheels set at 88 ft-lbs.
My theory is that the new paint coating acted like a thread locker on the nut-to-wheel contact points.
Also, the cleaning process when the wheels were painted removed the anti-seize that was present on the contact points.

Andy

 

When I had my wheels powder coated, there was a solid couple weeks before I had tires installed and then I mounted them myself, never once had issues removing them afterwards for anything.

 

Hi HK,
A couple of weeks probably made a big difference, mine were mounted on a 24-hour job turn-around.
Andy

 

Hmmm...I would be very skeptical that a torque wrench was actually used. Why 88 ft lbs? Seems inconsistent with your previous post/questions and approach to lug torque.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-please-2.html

 

Most mechanics take the short route and use air tools.

Anytime I have removed a wheel that was put on by a dealer or indy, the force to get off was always more than the suggested torque setting.

 

Andy said they were fitted by a wheel shop - they will know what they are doing and will not use airtools.

I've had many many wheels refinished professionally, but always a three day turnaround at the least, and nothing has 'stuck' afterwards.

Maybe the paint wasn't quite cured in a 24 hour turnaround? I wouldn't worry - you know they are correct now. Enjoy!

 

Thank you for your kind words,
Andy

 

Wow on how much force you needed to break the lug nuts. Them removing the anti seize stuff makes sense. Amazing how helpful that stuff is

 

I was told by a mech eng that you must use moly grease on steel studs when using Al nuts to be able to get the correct torque. Mine were starting to gall so I cleaned them and reapplied optimoly as called out in the 993 manual. They torque up and come off smooth as butter now. Torque setting holds true when checked also.

 

Powder coated items don’t dry my like traditional items, and are good to go back into service as soon as the wheels have cooled. Time is money. I’m guessing the wheel shop simply used a torque gun, and over-torqued the wheels.

 

Andy,
Were your wheels painted silver and then a clear powder coat? I ask, as that was what was quoted to refinish my wheels.

Thanks,

 

When I had my wheels powder coated I told them not to coat the lug nut seats on the wheels. Im pretty sure that's a no no

 

I think this thread needs pictures of the finished product (new painted wheels).

 

I'm very skeptical of any shop for getting the Silver color correct. Nearly all that I see repainted are off from the original Silver color. With that,I highly recommend Harvey Weidman (Weidman's Wheels) for any wheel repairs or reconditioning. He's as good as they get for any Porsche wheel needs.

 

Hi GD,
They were powder-coated and so I assume not overcoated with clearcoat as this would negate the durability of the finish vs the powder-coat alone and I would think it is unnecessary.
Andy