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The boot on those is not replaceable. It's not like most boots which have a spring clip to keep it in place. It is sealed into the arm with a crimp ring.
Replacing the boot involves
separating the joint,
cutting off the old boot,
slipping a new one on, and greasing it slightly.
I see BoomBoom's comment above and think one can get a functional grease seal.
The new boot is pressed against the joint by remounting the arm. It shouldn't require a clip to hold it in position over the joint.
Pulling one of the joints and trying a few different sizes of aftermarket boots will probably result in one covering the ball and overlapping some of the external casting body surrounding it providing a reasonably good grease seal. Seeing the cost of the parts it may be worth a little experiment just replacing the seal first
Andy
Last edited by pp000830; Dec 17, 2022 at 06:03 PM.
I see one part# for lower both sides. No left and right differences? I guess the uppers don’t see as much wear?
The lowers are known to fail far more frequently.
My one recommendation is to clean and mark your eccentrics with a sharpie on the inner bolt before loosening to keep alignment. I like to use (3) lines vs in to increase accuracy.
The left side inner bolt is sometimes hard to remove as it hits the heat exchanger. Suggest putting a jack under the engine and taking the weight off the motor mounts which is usually just enough to wiggle the bolt out.
If the tow links are shot, the two a arm links are soon to follow. These are also under a lot of stress. I changed out both in my rear suspension, and it was worth the investment.
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Help identifying rear suspension part
