FELKER

This is my first time changing the pads on my 993. I have done this before on the Boxster. the caliper design is a little different, But I think I have figered it out.

PLEASE correct me if I am wrong on these steps.

ONE PROBLEM>>> There these disks with the metal backing stuck to the metal plate of the brake pad. I had to pry the backing off the actual pad to get the pad out and then the backing with disk's stuck to the backing came out of the caliper.

I then have to pry the disks off the old backing and replace into the the pistons..now drop the new pad in WITH THE new backing stuck to it....

Any hints on the steps...do I also need new "disks"?

Also there is a small lip on the edge of the rotor (see link to LARGE PICTURES). Is this ok?...I summize this is part of the wear on the rotor... When is it too much and the rotor needs to be replaced?

THANKS for any and all help


(this is a picture of the old pad backing with the "disks" stuck to it)





<a href="http://www.johnfelker.com/brake/pad.html" target="_blank">BIGGER PICTURES INCLUDING ROTOR</a>

E. J. - 993 Alumni

John, Those disks and plates that they're glued to are the anti-noise and anti-squeal devices used at the factory to quiet the brakes down. The majority of us here who change brake pads regularly for track events and racing stuff have junked those things a while ago. I use Pagid Orange pads at the track and they make a lot of noise. I don't mind it at the track. I use stock pads on the street without all that junk and they make no noise. If i were you and if you never track your car and are just going to change the pads every 40k miles, I might reuse them or use new ones, but they are a pain to re-install as it sounds like you have already figured out. If you are going to change out pads for the track, you might as well leave that crap off to make it easier. I use no plates or anything on street or track pads - just drop em in.

As for the lip on the rotor - it's impossible to tell how big the lip is from your pics. I always tell when its time to replace the rotors when the cracks from the holes start touching or reach the outer edge. My rotors have a lip. You could find the specs form the manuals and then get them measured at Midas or something to see if they are within spec.

Good luck,

E. J.

STLPCA

John
A few suggestions:
Next time try prying the disks away from the backing plates w/a putty knife before pulling the pads, which I think is easier than prying off the backing plates.

If you reuse the disks make sure their "spokes" are not too deformed to fit snugly in the caliper. I sprayed the back of the disks w/blue sticky Permatex anti-squeal, fit them in the calipers & then dropped in the new oem pads w/backing plates attached & it worked well.

You may want to lightly bevel the outside edges of the new pads with a file to make sure they clear the rotor ridge.

Last, are you trying to reuse the wear sensors? If so, I found the following procedure to work well:
-Unplug the wires at the cylinder like junction & take the old pads w/sensors attached to a work bench.
-Lubricate the sensors w/soapy water.
-Gently pry the sensors up w/a small screwdriver alternating from the front & back sides of the pad. They are very brittle and will crack if too much force is used. The key is the lubrication & baby steps.

FELKER

Next question.... After reading the DIY on p-car (DUH!!)

Is the anti noise just the disk OR the disks glued to the plate all as one item... i.e. do I unstick the small disk from that plate in the picture OR does that whole thing (disks and plate) go in and a new pad with a backing plate dropped in.