Can not shift to gears 2,4,6 Help
04-28-2004, 09:33 AM
#46
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It seems that your mechanic Kadeer may not have a lot of experience in the matter. I agree with Glen. Send your box to a reputable shop to avoid headackes. Glen's advise is gold on this matter and while he is such a bad influence 
his experience on building superfast Porsche's is second to none. It will cost you since you decided to proceed with mods, it is worth it for sure but you have to do it right the first time around and not have to reopen the box.
his experience on building superfast Porsche's is second to none. It will cost you since you decided to proceed with mods, it is worth it for sure but you have to do it right the first time around and not have to reopen the box.
04-28-2004, 02:20 PM
#47
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Originally posted by Glen
K, 1 and 2 are 3 pc syncros and used to be about 1200-1400$ apiece. If You are going to do one, do 2nd, first is irrelevant. I did not see You adressing gears btw, make sure to regear. The US ratios are horrible. Goto Carquip.com and play with the ratio calculator excell ss and plaug in your ratios to see the monstrous gaps. Then go ahead and throw in the g50-21 ratios and the RSCS ratios for fun. When You are all done the cheapest route is to move your stock 5th to 6th and 3rd to 4th then buy a custom 3rd and 5th to fill the gaps leave 1 and 2 alone. Better than that is use g50-21 3,4,5 and a custom 6th, better than that is full custom ratios. Remember to match your shift points with the power band of the car and also raise the rev point on each shift as you drop into each gear, ie a stairstep process. The car and engine has to overcome exponentially greater aerodynamic drag with each shiftg as the speed goes up so where your shift from 2-3 can drop to say 4500 from redline, your 3-4 needs to be @ 5200-5500, your 4-5 needs to be 5400-5600 and yo0ur 5-6 needs to be @ 5800-6000. That is where you begin to get an active gearbox where you always have the right ratio for the situation. Also be aware that i dont know of a track that a NA 993 will exceed 155 so that is a great redline in 6th target to come back down off of. the car is aero limited to @ 165-168 so if You want to make that redline in 6th that will work also, but You will never see it....Except in some sort of really stupid on public roads scenario that I know You would never do anyway....lol Anyway have fun, there are 4 guys I would send a box to, Copan, Gamroth(Weiner) and Friedman, all very very good. I will gently encourage You to so the same, Le Mans winning Pro teams use these guys so should You. Please PM me if You need specifics on how to contact them. Dont worry about hurting mechanic feelings, its your car.
K, 1 and 2 are 3 pc syncros and used to be about 1200-1400$ apiece. If You are going to do one, do 2nd, first is irrelevant. I did not see You adressing gears btw, make sure to regear. The US ratios are horrible. Goto Carquip.com and play with the ratio calculator excell ss and plaug in your ratios to see the monstrous gaps. Then go ahead and throw in the g50-21 ratios and the RSCS ratios for fun. When You are all done the cheapest route is to move your stock 5th to 6th and 3rd to 4th then buy a custom 3rd and 5th to fill the gaps leave 1 and 2 alone. Better than that is use g50-21 3,4,5 and a custom 6th, better than that is full custom ratios. Remember to match your shift points with the power band of the car and also raise the rev point on each shift as you drop into each gear, ie a stairstep process. The car and engine has to overcome exponentially greater aerodynamic drag with each shiftg as the speed goes up so where your shift from 2-3 can drop to say 4500 from redline, your 3-4 needs to be @ 5200-5500, your 4-5 needs to be 5400-5600 and yo0ur 5-6 needs to be @ 5800-6000. That is where you begin to get an active gearbox where you always have the right ratio for the situation. Also be aware that i dont know of a track that a NA 993 will exceed 155 so that is a great redline in 6th target to come back down off of. the car is aero limited to @ 165-168 so if You want to make that redline in 6th that will work also, but You will never see it....Except in some sort of really stupid on public roads scenario that I know You would never do anyway....lol Anyway have fun, there are 4 guys I would send a box to, Copan, Gamroth(Weiner) and Friedman, all very very good. I will gently encourage You to so the same, Le Mans winning Pro teams use these guys so should You. Please PM me if You need specifics on how to contact them. Dont worry about hurting mechanic feelings, its your car.
If anyone needs the charts.......PM me and I'll fax them
05-04-2004, 01:06 AM
#48
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I got the bill today.
Here is what got done on the car.
3K for Parts ( RS Clutch, Steel Syncro 3,4,5,6), Lower Valve cover, Filter, fluids etc)
3K for Labour (1K for 60K service, 2K for clutch, syncros, valve cover)
500 Tax
Total $6500.
I was ticjked with the Local NY mechanic in Freeport, as I was led to believe much lower, the guy was charging for grease (100 and nickel and diming on parts everywhere. Did 6th syncro when wasn't suppose too.
I needed the car so I had to pay, my car now has this new humming noise at low rmp/stationary. It turns off in 2nd and 3rd when stopping.
Not a good day today.
Kadeer
Here is what got done on the car.
3K for Parts ( RS Clutch, Steel Syncro 3,4,5,6), Lower Valve cover, Filter, fluids etc)
3K for Labour (1K for 60K service, 2K for clutch, syncros, valve cover)
500 Tax
Total $6500.
I was ticjked with the Local NY mechanic in Freeport, as I was led to believe much lower, the guy was charging for grease (100 and nickel and diming on parts everywhere. Did 6th syncro when wasn't suppose too.
I needed the car so I had to pay, my car now has this new humming noise at low rmp/stationary. It turns off in 2nd and 3rd when stopping.
Not a good day today.
Kadeer
05-04-2004, 01:38 AM
#49
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When I had my transmission done there was a whine that went away after a couple hundred miles. With the LWF, it sounds like a cement truck if you lug the engine. I look at it as the car reminding me to pay attention.
While it sounds like the experience with the shop wasn't good, I hope you find the LWF upgrade to be as much fun I and others have.
While it sounds like the experience with the shop wasn't good, I hope you find the LWF upgrade to be as much fun I and others have.
05-04-2004, 02:29 AM
#51
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Originally posted by kadeer
Tom,
Right, It sound like the cement truck at low rpm. Crumbling noise.
Kind of noisy and annoying, Is this normal for the LWF clutch.
-Kadeer
Tom,
Right, It sound like the cement truck at low rpm. Crumbling noise.
Kind of noisy and annoying, Is this normal for the LWF clutch.
-Kadeer
Did you mechanic change the part I mentioned in the tranny??? I certainly hope so...
Mechanics who take advantage of people really tick me off
Good luck and I hope your tranny issues are forever gone...
05-04-2004, 02:51 AM
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Danny,
Should have listen to you, my appologies.
My mechanic insisted RS LWF he said he did few of them never had a problem, this guys travels with the race team as the crew mech and has 25+ experience. But I should have know there is nothing like the Rennlist user experience. In all fairness the mechanic is a good guy but the shop ower/partner screwed me.
Should have listen to you, my appologies.
My mechanic insisted RS LWF he said he did few of them never had a problem, this guys travels with the race team as the crew mech and has 25+ experience. But I should have know there is nothing like the Rennlist user experience. In all fairness the mechanic is a good guy but the shop ower/partner screwed me.
05-04-2004, 03:33 AM
#53
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Originally posted by kadeer
Danny,
Should have listen to you, my appologies.
My mechanic insisted RS LWF he said he did few of them never had a problem, this guys travels with the race team as the crew mech and has 25+ experience. But I should have know there is nothing like the Rennlist user experience. In all fairness the mechanic is a good guy but the shop ower/partner screwed me.
Danny,
Should have listen to you, my appologies.
My mechanic insisted RS LWF he said he did few of them never had a problem, this guys travels with the race team as the crew mech and has 25+ experience. But I should have know there is nothing like the Rennlist user experience. In all fairness the mechanic is a good guy but the shop ower/partner screwed me.
There have been many stories lately as to where our board is going and why some members are harsh so to speak to some others. Well this is part of why this board is and remains so valuable because all of us guard so to speak the content in such a manner that it is accurate, informative and void of potentially very expensive and dangerous opinions. This has a direct benefit to all as it can save everyone potential headackes that some , including you now, have experienced.
Look at it this way: At least now you can trust this board to lead you further to the slippery slope, spend more money in the process but have a huge smile on your face when you drive your car
I personally will be easy on you and not tell you what other mods you now need to do since you already started!I'm not so sure though if Phil will behave though
05-04-2004, 01:39 PM
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Kadeer,
Unless I missed it in the posts somewhere, I am still unsure about the exact cause of your g/box problem. I feel for you with regard to getting ripped by the owner, but what's done is done, enjoy your car.
Unless I missed it in the posts somewhere, I am still unsure about the exact cause of your g/box problem. I feel for you with regard to getting ripped by the owner, but what's done is done, enjoy your car.
05-04-2004, 03:23 PM
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The noise when you try to accelerate from low rpm is normal for my car. As I indicated, I view it as a reminder to pay attention and downshift before trying to accelerate. My transmission also had a high pitched whine (like a turbocharger) that went away after a few hunder miles. Other have reported a similar noise, so I wasn't concerned. My transmission was done over 2 years ago and I'm still happy with it.
05-04-2004, 11:22 PM
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Geln,
The shop said. regearing was thousands, so I was easily discouraged.
One day I will join the regear club, soon after a house.
Tom, I notice the whine too. Today I was stalling at every traffic light when I braked from 2nd. I will try to get the ISV cleaned if not change the driving style to heel&toe on stopping.
All you guys have been extremly helpful. Thanks
The shop said. regearing was thousands, so I was easily discouraged.
One day I will join the regear club, soon after a house.
Tom, I notice the whine too. Today I was stalling at every traffic light when I braked from 2nd. I will try to get the ISV cleaned if not change the driving style to heel&toe on stopping.
All you guys have been extremly helpful. Thanks
05-05-2004, 01:50 AM
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Kadeer, the stalling was more a function of depressing the clutch when above about 2.5k rpm (in my car) so there was a large, sudden drop in rpm that the ECU could/would not correct. The fix is to wait longer before letting out the clutch when coming to a stop (or ISV adjustment, or both). When you are already in first gear, heel/toe won't help.