kadeer

Thanks Danny/Bob you guys have been very helpful,
Since opening the gear box and any potential work is runing by itself $1350, should I replace the synchros even if they are good? the mechanic said they are few hundred dollars only. He suggested, the clutch to LWF , I don't know how much is left on current, I would hate to pay labour again for similiar work if I need in the near future. The clutch parts runing near $1200. Plus I got the 60K service on top which is near $1200 with some extras. Out of the blue I am probably looking at 4K.

Is is possible to work spider gear or other problems and save money or opening the gear box automatically mean $1300 plus in labour, making it better to sychro/clutch etc?
-Kadeer

DJF1

Since you have a 95 you should consider going with the Andial Midweight flywheel and RS clutch. The midweight will eliminate stalling problems which are usual with the LWF on 95's. I have that on my 95 and its really a great upgrade. The cost is close to 2K for the combo alone plus install.
While it is very worthwhile to take advantage of the "while you are there" type of deal with the box open and all it all depends on your budget.
Yes while "you are there" you can do the flywheel and clutch, syncros and all and look at another 60K without trouble.
The question you have to ask yourself if how long are you planning to keep the car and what is the value of the mods to you.
While "you are there" really you could do the following:
1. Andial midweight flywheel and RS clutch.
2. Regear 3,4,5 gears to RS or G50/21 box specs
3. Change to all steel synchros

The regearing is a great upgrade for the street and the track, you pick up 50 butt HP and the engine never falls off the power band.
The steel syncros are bulletproof and the flywheel/clutch combo another 20butt HP.
You are looking at 5K+ for all these "while you are there".
So...what is it worth it to you? If you plan on owning the car for the long haul these upgrades are a worthwhile investment and for the right buyer a deal clincher when you sell the car ( if you do). If not then you decide....

Again good luck...and make sure you see yourself why you should change all these stuff in the first place instead of a 10 dollar part...

Chuck W.

kadeer

It's always easy to spend other folk’s money, but I would follow Danny's advice. Life is too short and these cars are too good not to enjoy. But...these are mods for someone who loves and plans on keeping the 993 for many years. Good luck and keep us posted.

Glen

Remove gearbox, place in large coleman cooler/icechest, mail to Brian Copan. State, please fix it. Tell him if You want short ratios etc...(You do) Have it shipped back to your mechanic for reinstall including LWF kit from ViperBob. Any other procedure will yield less than satisfactory results. If You want help with ratios, ask Phil what would be ideal he may have an idea....lol My favorite is to take 5th and make it 6th, slide 3rd to 4th and then put a short 3 right between 2-4 and a short 5 between 4-6. That will be your cheapest and best bang for buck option.

Robert Henriksen

Yup, there are very few GOOD transmission experts out there, and experience really makes the difference. It's a lot of money, and if I were facing a $3-6k bill for extensive repair/upgrade/rework of the box, I'd want the certainty of going with a guy who does 993 boxes each and every week. The shipping charges would be worth the peace of mind.

Now, explaining this to your mechanic w/o hurting his feelings might be the only ticklish part! Depends on your relationship, I guess.

Tom W

Kadeer, I'm sorry to hear it will not be simple. My problem appears to have been the same as Danny's - the spider gear. I chose to have the car re-geared (5th to 6th and replave 2-5 with shorter gears) using brass synchros (steel would have been another $2000), an LSD added and the RS LWF and clutch fitted. While I love the way the car drives, the cost was not cheap (about $11k).

I don't envy you the difficult decision of what to do and what not to. I can only recommend you think about how you use the car and what your budget allows. The gear/flywheel changes make a tremendous difference in autox or at the track (but have a big impact on what class you are in). For a stret only car it's nice but a steep price.

WildWillard

Kadeer -

If you decide to do the LWF,

DON'T FORGET THE REAR MAIN SEAL.

I did the RS kit, love it, but forgot the seal, and have had to do the whole exercise again....

Doug

Tom W

I second Doug's reminder. My (former) mechanic decided to save me $30 by not replacing the seal. 10 months later it failed and required the transmission drop (again) to replace it.

On the list if other things to consider in the budget would be the RS transmission mount and check the motor mounts to ensure they are still good. Rubber parts deteriorate due to age and heat and our cars have a number of important rubber parts.

Chuck W.

Kadeer

Look at it this way, $11000 wouldn't even be one months lease payment on a Carrera GT. See, that puts it all into proper perspective.

kadeer

Guys thanks a lot for your input. I will be doing the steel syncros, and LWF Clutch as suggested, while I am there. I figured I will be keeping the car for a while and I enjoy the track and autox.
I guess my wife will have to wait on the house, the apartment isn't that bad

Glen

Dont do Steel syncros in the 1-2 slot, wasted $ and way more expensive than the 3-6 steel

kadeer

Glen,
When you say way more expensive, do you know what the synco parts run for.
Also 2nd gear is the most used for me (autox/streets etc), curious to know why its not worth it. Thanks

Tom W

IIRC, the 2nd gear steel syncho is about $1500. The rest are a lot cheaper and the total is about $2500. I thought about it but was basically told that unless it's a track car, it isn't worth it. For 6-8 autox and 6-8 DEs a year, the standard (brass) are fine.

Glen

K, 1 and 2 are 3 pc syncros and used to be about 1200-1400$ apiece. If You are going to do one, do 2nd, first is irrelevant. I did not see You adressing gears btw, make sure to regear. The US ratios are horrible. Goto Carquip.com and play with the ratio calculator excell ss and plaug in your ratios to see the monstrous gaps. Then go ahead and throw in the g50-21 ratios and the RSCS ratios for fun. When You are all done the cheapest route is to move your stock 5th to 6th and 3rd to 4th then buy a custom 3rd and 5th to fill the gaps leave 1 and 2 alone. Better than that is use g50-21 3,4,5 and a custom 6th, better than that is full custom ratios. Remember to match your shift points with the power band of the car and also raise the rev point on each shift as you drop into each gear, ie a stairstep process. The car and engine has to overcome exponentially greater aerodynamic drag with each shiftg as the speed goes up so where your shift from 2-3 can drop to say 4500 from redline, your 3-4 needs to be @ 5200-5500, your 4-5 needs to be 5400-5600 and yo0ur 5-6 needs to be @ 5800-6000. That is where you begin to get an active gearbox where you always have the right ratio for the situation. Also be aware that i dont know of a track that a NA 993 will exceed 155 so that is a great redline in 6th target to come back down off of. the car is aero limited to @ 165-168 so if You want to make that redline in 6th that will work also, but You will never see it....Except in some sort of really stupid on public roads scenario that I know You would never do anyway....lol Anyway have fun, there are 4 guys I would send a box to, Copan, Gamroth(Weiner) and Friedman, all very very good. I will gently encourage You to so the same, Le Mans winning Pro teams use these guys so should You. Please PM me if You need specifics on how to contact them. Dont worry about hurting mechanic feelings, its your car.

kadeer

At that cost I will have to pass on the 1,2.
Mechanic was guessing $100-150 for each steel synchro, looks like he was way off. Unless 3,4,5, are near that price.
Thanks
-K