Suspension arm bolt sheared off
#16
Rennlist Member
Hello I saw a few videos on YouTube that detail the removal of a broken stud just like this ...was very interesting and not too difficult but a reasonable level of difficulty for sure ..
they either manufactured or found a bolt the correct size put a whole through it screwed it into the hole then used that as a centering device with a left handed bit run in reverse I believe which when it began biting into the broken stud was able to back it out.
Prodigious amounts of anti seize and WD-40 .. Look it up might help..
Bert
they either manufactured or found a bolt the correct size put a whole through it screwed it into the hole then used that as a centering device with a left handed bit run in reverse I believe which when it began biting into the broken stud was able to back it out.
Prodigious amounts of anti seize and WD-40 .. Look it up might help..
Bert
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autobonrun (06-11-2021)
#17
Rennlist Member
#18
Drifting
#19
Rennlist Member
The quickest thing would be to swap the carrier out for a new one. Once that's out you can take your time and remove the broken bit.
It would also be a good time to put adjustable end links to remove preload on the sway bar.
And while you're at it delete the front axles so those boots will never rip again
It would also be a good time to put adjustable end links to remove preload on the sway bar.
And while you're at it delete the front axles so those boots will never rip again
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The quickest thing would be to swap the carrier out for a new one. Once that's out you can take your time and remove the broken bit.
It would also be a good time to put adjustable end links to remove preload on the sway bar.
And while you're at it delete the front axles so those boots will never rip again
It would also be a good time to put adjustable end links to remove preload on the sway bar.
And while you're at it delete the front axles so those boots will never rip again
I hate threads that just end with no conclusion so I’m adding one.
While I was sitting around on vacation I tried to think how that link got broken. I finally recalled that I did hit a pothole. Initially I said I didn’t. I redrove the route in my SUV and confirmed my recollection; the pothole had been filled. So I rechecked my tire and rim and verified nothing was bent or bulging.
Because of the work involved with machine shops and axle nuts, I decided to let the mechanic do the repair of the sway bar connection and axle boot; That and the fact my garage is over 100 degrees lately. I dropped the car off today.
#21
Rennlist Member
I would just take the carrier to a machine shop. They will either get the the stud out, or thy can time-cert it. I'd have them time-cert the caliper mounting threads while they're at it.
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. The mechanic said he would be taking the carrier to a machine shop. I’ll mention the time-cert option to them.
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I was lucky. The bolt came out without sending the carrier off. They didn’t have to use a timesert either; just some oil and chased the threads to clean them up.
As it turned out the sway bar end link on both sides needed replacement, and both axle boots on the front were torn so they were packed and replaced.
I’m happy she’s back home.
As it turned out the sway bar end link on both sides needed replacement, and both axle boots on the front were torn so they were packed and replaced.
I’m happy she’s back home.