a/c condenser fan not working
#1
a/c condenser fan not working
Hello All,
My 1996 993 a/c condenser fan is not working. So far I have tested the resister by via the procedure of jumping the relay contacts...and the result is that I have no high speed or low speed condenser fan operation. What would the next step be to troubleshoot the fan not working? BTW the ac blows cold but I do not use it due the condenser fan not operating as I do not want to damage other system components. TIA
My 1996 993 a/c condenser fan is not working. So far I have tested the resister by via the procedure of jumping the relay contacts...and the result is that I have no high speed or low speed condenser fan operation. What would the next step be to troubleshoot the fan not working? BTW the ac blows cold but I do not use it due the condenser fan not operating as I do not want to damage other system components. TIA
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prosaiccorsair (05-23-2021)
#3
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Here is the diagnostic procedure I would try:
Buy a $7 Volt/Ohm meter at Harbor Freight if you don't have one.
Checking the wiring and motor for a short circuit:
--After checking the fuse and it looks good replace it anyway as its spades may be corroded.
--If blown it blew out for a reason and the load (Ohm Value) across pin 87 to the ground (the car body) should be similar to pin 87 to ground (the car body) on the relay going to the oil cooler blower motor if the ohm value is much lower value or even Zero Ohms the motor is shorted out internally or the wire to it has a short to ground.
--Pull the wheel well liner and unplug the motor's pigtail wire then check the resistance again at the relay socket to ground (car body metal) if it still shows a resistance value (low Ohm) the wire is shorted to ground somewhere along its path. if it shows no load (a very high Ohm value) the motor is shorted out internally and needs to be replaced.
If the fuse is not blown, Checking the wiring and motor for an open circuit:
--check the resistance from the relay socket pin running to the fan for high speed going to the motor, pin 87 on the relay socket, and see if it shows some resistance to ground (a low Ohm value). If not, it is an open connection and the problem is the motor or the wiring to it.
--Then one could pull the wheel well liner find the pigtail wire going to the fan motor, unplug it, and read the resistance across the wires plug connector to the motor. If no resistance (a high Ohm value) the motor is bad, if a low ohm value the wire going to the motor has an open connection or the plug socket is dirty or was loose.
--Also be sure you actually tested the relay socket properly as described at the bottom of this page, if you didn't make plug spades by flattening the wire ends when you made the jumper you may have not made a connection to the socket at all.
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...ooler-and.html
Hope this helps.,
Andy
Buy a $7 Volt/Ohm meter at Harbor Freight if you don't have one.
Checking the wiring and motor for a short circuit:
--After checking the fuse and it looks good replace it anyway as its spades may be corroded.
--If blown it blew out for a reason and the load (Ohm Value) across pin 87 to the ground (the car body) should be similar to pin 87 to ground (the car body) on the relay going to the oil cooler blower motor if the ohm value is much lower value or even Zero Ohms the motor is shorted out internally or the wire to it has a short to ground.
--Pull the wheel well liner and unplug the motor's pigtail wire then check the resistance again at the relay socket to ground (car body metal) if it still shows a resistance value (low Ohm) the wire is shorted to ground somewhere along its path. if it shows no load (a very high Ohm value) the motor is shorted out internally and needs to be replaced.
If the fuse is not blown, Checking the wiring and motor for an open circuit:
--check the resistance from the relay socket pin running to the fan for high speed going to the motor, pin 87 on the relay socket, and see if it shows some resistance to ground (a low Ohm value). If not, it is an open connection and the problem is the motor or the wiring to it.
--Then one could pull the wheel well liner find the pigtail wire going to the fan motor, unplug it, and read the resistance across the wires plug connector to the motor. If no resistance (a high Ohm value) the motor is bad, if a low ohm value the wire going to the motor has an open connection or the plug socket is dirty or was loose.
--Also be sure you actually tested the relay socket properly as described at the bottom of this page, if you didn't make plug spades by flattening the wire ends when you made the jumper you may have not made a connection to the socket at all.
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...ooler-and.html
Hope this helps.,
Andy
Last edited by pp000830; 05-23-2021 at 09:15 PM.
#5
Replacing the AC condenser resistor is super quick and easy. It’s much more accessible compared to the oil cooler one in the other fender.
Here’s what mine looked like before I replaced it:
Here’s what mine looked like before I replaced it:
#6
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
When replacing mine I went in a different direction for both the AC Condenser and the Oil Cooler low-speed fan resister replacement.
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...ooler-and.html
Andy ;-)