Door Lock Problems - Opinions Needed
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From: Connecticut
Door Lock Problems - Opinions Needed
Hi again all,
as posted the other day, I'm still having trouble with my door locks. Since buying the car a couple weeks ago I can not get the doors to lock using the remote or key in the actual lock. The alarm and the drive block system do work, but when trying to lock the doors with the remote, I receive a honk from the horn. I can re-set the alarm by pressing the remote three times within 10 seconds but the door l.e.d's double flash continuously now.
With the symptoms listed above, do you think I need to replace the electronic lock actuator in the doors?
Any other thoughts?
Thanks again for listening!
Adam
as posted the other day, I'm still having trouble with my door locks. Since buying the car a couple weeks ago I can not get the doors to lock using the remote or key in the actual lock. The alarm and the drive block system do work, but when trying to lock the doors with the remote, I receive a honk from the horn. I can re-set the alarm by pressing the remote three times within 10 seconds but the door l.e.d's double flash continuously now.
With the symptoms listed above, do you think I need to replace the electronic lock actuator in the doors?
Any other thoughts?
Thanks again for listening!
Adam
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Adam
A double flash is usually a fault in a secondary protected area - radio or glovebox. A honk on arming is usually a fault in a primary protected ares - doors, trunk, engine lid or ignition. I think the alarm/DriveBlock system has an element of voodoo. Before you go spending $$$, perhaps needlessly, in a half assed effort at self diagnosis, I'd suggest you bite the bullet & take the car to a dealer for a diagnostic check. Depending on what's wrong you can proceed to DIY. My $.02.
A double flash is usually a fault in a secondary protected area - radio or glovebox. A honk on arming is usually a fault in a primary protected ares - doors, trunk, engine lid or ignition. I think the alarm/DriveBlock system has an element of voodoo. Before you go spending $$$, perhaps needlessly, in a half assed effort at self diagnosis, I'd suggest you bite the bullet & take the car to a dealer for a diagnostic check. Depending on what's wrong you can proceed to DIY. My $.02.
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From: Stuttgart Germany
Hi Adam,
July last year I had a similar problem.
My question at that time was :
The driver's side door lock on my '97 Targa doesn't lock whith the central locking system. The horn sounds once for a brief moment and there is no door lock sound inside the drivers door at all when actuating the lock remote. The car can still be locked by using the key manually.
The door switches look OK.
This problem was caused by the servo actuator motor inside the door.
If both of your doors has the problem, its probably caused by a microswitch or the control unit.
In the workshop manual you will find realy good diagnostics to isolate the problem.
July last year I had a similar problem.
My question at that time was :
The driver's side door lock on my '97 Targa doesn't lock whith the central locking system. The horn sounds once for a brief moment and there is no door lock sound inside the drivers door at all when actuating the lock remote. The car can still be locked by using the key manually.
The door switches look OK.
This problem was caused by the servo actuator motor inside the door.
If both of your doors has the problem, its probably caused by a microswitch or the control unit.
In the workshop manual you will find realy good diagnostics to isolate the problem.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Connecticut
Thanks Guys,
I'm bringing it down to the shop tomorrow for them to take a look. I'll try to give them as much feedback in hopes that this will reduce the time they spend figuring things out.
I'm bringing it down to the shop tomorrow for them to take a look. I'll try to give them as much feedback in hopes that this will reduce the time they spend figuring things out.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by adambos:
<strong>Thanks Guys,
I'm bringing it down to the shop tomorrow for them to take a look.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Adam
Let us know the diagnosis.
<strong>Thanks Guys,
I'm bringing it down to the shop tomorrow for them to take a look.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Adam
Let us know the diagnosis.
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From: Connecticut
Hi Guys,
my friend and I pulled both doors completely apart tonight and figured out the problem.
First we started with the lock cylinder. The key would not turn so we disconnected the electronic lock motor (servo motor/lock actuator?). Once disconnecting the plastic ball joint which connected the lock cylinder to the motor, I was able to lock and unlock the car with the key.
Next step was to check the fuses/wiring to the electronic lock motor. Using a volt meter and the key fob remote we saw that power was going to the electronic lock motor when pressing the alarm key.
Then we narrowed it down to the electronic lock motors (lower corner of the door towards the back of the car). After un-plugging the wires from the previous step, we removed the electronic motors (covered in black plastic and a rubber cover at the top). From the looks of the motor, the components under the rubber cover should have moved up and down freely but they were seazed. After a little banging and WD-40, we were able to get the parts moving again but they were still really stiff.
The last step was re-connecting the electronic lock motors to the power and then reconnecting to the lock cylinders to see what happens. At this point we discovered that the motors were seazed/shot and the problem was solved.
Now I just need to find two electronic lock motors. Both have the same part numbers so hopefully I can find them pretty easily. Much better to DIY than pay the shop a couple hours to figure this out and replace the parts.
One more note, is that when we had the electronic lock motors hook back up in the last step and compressed them by hand to their locked position, the l.e.d. in the doors flashed properly with only a one flash instead of the previous double flash.
ok, on to the next issue, sqeaking coming from the front when I go over bumps???
my friend and I pulled both doors completely apart tonight and figured out the problem.
First we started with the lock cylinder. The key would not turn so we disconnected the electronic lock motor (servo motor/lock actuator?). Once disconnecting the plastic ball joint which connected the lock cylinder to the motor, I was able to lock and unlock the car with the key.
Next step was to check the fuses/wiring to the electronic lock motor. Using a volt meter and the key fob remote we saw that power was going to the electronic lock motor when pressing the alarm key.
Then we narrowed it down to the electronic lock motors (lower corner of the door towards the back of the car). After un-plugging the wires from the previous step, we removed the electronic motors (covered in black plastic and a rubber cover at the top). From the looks of the motor, the components under the rubber cover should have moved up and down freely but they were seazed. After a little banging and WD-40, we were able to get the parts moving again but they were still really stiff.
The last step was re-connecting the electronic lock motors to the power and then reconnecting to the lock cylinders to see what happens. At this point we discovered that the motors were seazed/shot and the problem was solved.
Now I just need to find two electronic lock motors. Both have the same part numbers so hopefully I can find them pretty easily. Much better to DIY than pay the shop a couple hours to figure this out and replace the parts.
One more note, is that when we had the electronic lock motors hook back up in the last step and compressed them by hand to their locked position, the l.e.d. in the doors flashed properly with only a one flash instead of the previous double flash.
ok, on to the next issue, sqeaking coming from the front when I go over bumps???
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by adambos:
<strong>ok, on to the next issue, sqeaking coming from the front when I go over bumps???</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Don't know where you are, but if it's a cold climate, odds are its the rubber bushings for the front sway bar. Short term cure is to remove & lube them. It's difficult to get any lube in there w/o removal. Long term fix is replacement. Or, just wait - the squeak will go away when the weather is warm.
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002336#000001" target="_blank">Noisy front end. </a>
<strong>ok, on to the next issue, sqeaking coming from the front when I go over bumps???</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Don't know where you are, but if it's a cold climate, odds are its the rubber bushings for the front sway bar. Short term cure is to remove & lube them. It's difficult to get any lube in there w/o removal. Long term fix is replacement. Or, just wait - the squeak will go away when the weather is warm.
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002336#000001" target="_blank">Noisy front end. </a>
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by adambos:
<strong>ok, on to the next issue, sqeaking coming from the front when I go over bumps???</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">My guess would be either worn shocks, unseated coil springs, or loose suspension components.
What kind of squeak is it(not all squeaks sound the same)? Did anything unusual come up from the PPI when you bought the car? Has your car been service lately - could be the shop didn't tighten everything...happens more often than it should (should be never).
<strong>ok, on to the next issue, sqeaking coming from the front when I go over bumps???</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">My guess would be either worn shocks, unseated coil springs, or loose suspension components.
What kind of squeak is it(not all squeaks sound the same)? Did anything unusual come up from the PPI when you bought the car? Has your car been service lately - could be the shop didn't tighten everything...happens more often than it should (should be never).
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From: Connecticut
I'm in Connecticut, so yes it's been cold. The car needs the 90K service and it's still on the original springs/shocks. Dan I think you are correct about the rubber bushings on the front sway bar, I'll try to get some lube on them. Eventually I'll replace the whole suspension but I need to take it slow or I'm going to buy everything.