Brake Fluid Reservoir Overflow Hose
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Santa Monica, Ca
Brake Fluid Reservoir Overflow Hose
Hi everyone,
I am 5 minutes away from starting brake flushing with power bleeder.
The car is early 1995. So I will have to block off the overflow hose
so that you COULD pressurize the brake fluid reservoiur with Motive
Power Bleeder ( for this purpose I have a pair of locking pliers).
The question is which hose is overflow (venting) hose?
I made a picture and numbered two of the hoses that look to me could be
one of them...
And second ..I checked the calipers for bleeder nipple...found only one per each..
I've read some postings here..and people mentioned two bleeder nipples per
caliper....The one I found is at the top of caliper...where could I find another one?
<img src="http://www.sputniks.us/brake.jpg" alt=" - " />
Thanks!!!!
I am 5 minutes away from starting brake flushing with power bleeder.
The car is early 1995. So I will have to block off the overflow hose
so that you COULD pressurize the brake fluid reservoiur with Motive
Power Bleeder ( for this purpose I have a pair of locking pliers).
The question is which hose is overflow (venting) hose?
I made a picture and numbered two of the hoses that look to me could be
one of them...
And second ..I checked the calipers for bleeder nipple...found only one per each..
I've read some postings here..and people mentioned two bleeder nipples per
caliper....The one I found is at the top of caliper...where could I find another one?
<img src="http://www.sputniks.us/brake.jpg" alt=" - " />
Thanks!!!!
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From: northern california
Just to concur, clamp off hose #1 and start pumping!
Where you see the front caliper bleed valve, right behind it is the 2nd valve. I usually drain each caliper, one at a time, and drain approx 100ml per rear caliper (4x100ml=400ml) and 150ml per front calipers (4x150ml=600ml) - this way I utilize only one liter of ATE Super Blue per bleed job. Sometimes when I want to give the system an extra flush, I'll pour 2liters into the power bleeder, and flush 200ml in rears and 250ml fronts. Always start with rear passenger side, then rear driver side, front passenger side, and finish with front driver side..
Don't over-tighten the bleed valves when you're done. Just tighten them normally...
When job's complete, prior to driving, pump brakes a few times to prime-up the system..
Where you see the front caliper bleed valve, right behind it is the 2nd valve. I usually drain each caliper, one at a time, and drain approx 100ml per rear caliper (4x100ml=400ml) and 150ml per front calipers (4x150ml=600ml) - this way I utilize only one liter of ATE Super Blue per bleed job. Sometimes when I want to give the system an extra flush, I'll pour 2liters into the power bleeder, and flush 200ml in rears and 250ml fronts. Always start with rear passenger side, then rear driver side, front passenger side, and finish with front driver side..
Don't over-tighten the bleed valves when you're done. Just tighten them normally...
When job's complete, prior to driving, pump brakes a few times to prime-up the system..
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From: yorba linda, ca
With our champ car calipers, Brembo suggests us to torque the bleeders to 100 inch/lbs. Some teams go to 110 inch/lbs. I have used 100 inch/lbs with no problems.
If you have the time, bleed the clutch as well. When I bled mine, most of the slow return issue went away.
Also, start with the RR caliper, inside bleeder then the outside bleeder. Repeat for LR, then RF and finally LF.
A good feeling when you are finished.
If you have the time, bleed the clutch as well. When I bled mine, most of the slow return issue went away.
Also, start with the RR caliper, inside bleeder then the outside bleeder. Repeat for LR, then RF and finally LF.
A good feeling when you are finished.
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Agree; clamp off hose #1.
RE the bleed nipples. I recommend you turn off the computer and go down into the garage and remove a front wheel. The inside bleed nipple is at almost the exact same elevation and layout as the clearly observable outside nipple. You really can't see or feel it with the wheel on (at least easily, in my experience). If you can't find it, I recommend doing one of the following:
a) button everything back up and bring the car to somebody competent (apparently you're not)
b) B*tch to where you bought the car and ask why you don't have 993 calipers
RE the bleed nipples. I recommend you turn off the computer and go down into the garage and remove a front wheel. The inside bleed nipple is at almost the exact same elevation and layout as the clearly observable outside nipple. You really can't see or feel it with the wheel on (at least easily, in my experience). If you can't find it, I recommend doing one of the following:
a) button everything back up and bring the car to somebody competent (apparently you're not)
b) B*tch to where you bought the car and ask why you don't have 993 calipers
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 402
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From: Santa Monica, Ca
Hi there,
I started to power bleed the brake fluid 20 minutes ago from right rear caliper (passenger side).
I have two liters of new fluid (which is already in power bleeder). I flushed 200 ml of fluid through
each nipple...so total will be 400 ml per caliper. The question is if it was enough. The reason I am in doubt is because
at the moment when I tightened the nipple bolts I still could see the air bubbles...tiny bubbles which looked like a chain..one air bubble after another...not like large fragmented ones...I thought that after flushing 400 ml per rear caliper those bubbles should stop appearing.
Should I flush more?...till I don't see the bubbles? But i am afraid that 2 litters wouldn't be enough for whole system..
I started to power bleed the brake fluid 20 minutes ago from right rear caliper (passenger side).
I have two liters of new fluid (which is already in power bleeder). I flushed 200 ml of fluid through
each nipple...so total will be 400 ml per caliper. The question is if it was enough. The reason I am in doubt is because
at the moment when I tightened the nipple bolts I still could see the air bubbles...tiny bubbles which looked like a chain..one air bubble after another...not like large fragmented ones...I thought that after flushing 400 ml per rear caliper those bubbles should stop appearing.
Should I flush more?...till I don't see the bubbles? But i am afraid that 2 litters wouldn't be enough for whole system..
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 402
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From: Santa Monica, Ca
Chris mentioned that Brembo suggests us to torque the bleeders to 100 inch/lbs.
I try to figure out how to properly use Stanley Micro-Adjusting Torque Wrench. After reading the instruction that came with it looks like its torque range is
50 to 250 in-lbs (5.6 to 28 Nm).
To torque the bleeders I set it to 110 in-lbs.
Here is the picture.
<img src="http://www.sputniks.us/tor.jpg" alt=" - " />
I just want to make sure I set it right before I screw up the bleeders .
And as a side question..the manual suggests to apply 94 ftlb (130 Nm). Taking into account the torque range of my wrench I believe it cannot be used for the wheels...(the torque range for the wrench I have is 50 to 250 in-lbs (5.6 to 28 Nm).
I try to figure out how to properly use Stanley Micro-Adjusting Torque Wrench. After reading the instruction that came with it looks like its torque range is
50 to 250 in-lbs (5.6 to 28 Nm).
To torque the bleeders I set it to 110 in-lbs.
Here is the picture.
<img src="http://www.sputniks.us/tor.jpg" alt=" - " />
I just want to make sure I set it right before I screw up the bleeders .
And as a side question..the manual suggests to apply 94 ftlb (130 Nm). Taking into account the torque range of my wrench I believe it cannot be used for the wheels...(the torque range for the wrench I have is 50 to 250 in-lbs (5.6 to 28 Nm).
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Passed On
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Russian Satellite, 400ml per caliper should be fine. Make sure that the rubber hose connection is tight on the bleed nipple, and only crack the bleed screw about a quarter turn.
Couple things I do:
a)I ginned up a bleed hose with a "tee" on it, so I can bleed both bleed screws on one caliper simultaneously.
b) Shortly after opening the bleed screws, I rap on the caliper with a rubber mallet to break loose any air pockets I have.
If you have continuous air bubbles with the bleed screws open, then you still have air in the system (could be air getting through the bleed screw threads into the caliper and out teh bleed passage but I doubt it with a pressurized bleed system like the Power Bleeder). If you close the bleed screw and still have bubbles, likely the bleed tube is not firmly connected to the bleed screw head and air is passing by the connection.
RE torquing the bleed connnections; I do it by hand with a short (6" or so) combo wrench. Snug the fitting firmly holding the wrench close to the fitting. No problems in 25 years.
RE torquing the wheels; get a 1/2" drive torque wrench tha goes up to at least 150 ft-lbs. I destroyed a 3/8" drive unit that went up to 100 ft-lbs. On yours, divide 250 in-lbs by 12in/ft and you get 20.8 ft-lbs - DUH!!!!
Couple things I do:
a)I ginned up a bleed hose with a "tee" on it, so I can bleed both bleed screws on one caliper simultaneously.
b) Shortly after opening the bleed screws, I rap on the caliper with a rubber mallet to break loose any air pockets I have.
If you have continuous air bubbles with the bleed screws open, then you still have air in the system (could be air getting through the bleed screw threads into the caliper and out teh bleed passage but I doubt it with a pressurized bleed system like the Power Bleeder). If you close the bleed screw and still have bubbles, likely the bleed tube is not firmly connected to the bleed screw head and air is passing by the connection.
RE torquing the bleed connnections; I do it by hand with a short (6" or so) combo wrench. Snug the fitting firmly holding the wrench close to the fitting. No problems in 25 years.
RE torquing the wheels; get a 1/2" drive torque wrench tha goes up to at least 150 ft-lbs. I destroyed a 3/8" drive unit that went up to 100 ft-lbs. On yours, divide 250 in-lbs by 12in/ft and you get 20.8 ft-lbs - DUH!!!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
From: Santa Monica, Ca
Thanks Ray!
I just finished the bleeding.
I flushed 2 litters total throughout the whole brake system. 400 ml per each rear caliper (200 per nipple). And 500 ml per front calipers (250 ml per nipple).
The fluid from the rear calipers (the old fluid) was probably twice as dark as the fluid from the front calipers. But there were NO bubbles in the fluid at the front calipers. No bubbles at all.
As I mentioned before there was a different situation with rear calipers. I flushed 400 ml of brake fuid through them and there still were the bubbles at the moment I tightened the bleed bolts. As I said it was like a chain of bubbles.
I would tend to believe that there was some kind of air "leak" in the system...because that bubble chain was very consistent...
Ray you said : "...If you close the bleed screw and still have bubbles, likely the bleed tube is not firmly connected to the bleed screw head and air is passing by the connection..." I probably believe this version. When I tightened the bleeding bolt back into caliper I still could see the air bubbles...like they were escaping from the tightened bleeding bolt! It is why at the begining I tightened the bolt with all my russian satellite energy...but the bubbles still were appearing...
Next weekend I am going to flush the slave cilynder. By the way if I decide to reflush the back calipers only..till I don't see the bubbles..just like the front ones. Is it OK to bleed the rear calipers and not to bleed the front ones? Or I would have to go through whole bleeding again with front calipers involved?
Thanks everyone for you valuable suggestions! They helped me a lot to finish this "project" totally alone from the first time!
I just finished the bleeding.
I flushed 2 litters total throughout the whole brake system. 400 ml per each rear caliper (200 per nipple). And 500 ml per front calipers (250 ml per nipple).
The fluid from the rear calipers (the old fluid) was probably twice as dark as the fluid from the front calipers. But there were NO bubbles in the fluid at the front calipers. No bubbles at all.
As I mentioned before there was a different situation with rear calipers. I flushed 400 ml of brake fuid through them and there still were the bubbles at the moment I tightened the bleed bolts. As I said it was like a chain of bubbles.
I would tend to believe that there was some kind of air "leak" in the system...because that bubble chain was very consistent...
Ray you said : "...If you close the bleed screw and still have bubbles, likely the bleed tube is not firmly connected to the bleed screw head and air is passing by the connection..." I probably believe this version. When I tightened the bleeding bolt back into caliper I still could see the air bubbles...like they were escaping from the tightened bleeding bolt! It is why at the begining I tightened the bolt with all my russian satellite energy...but the bubbles still were appearing...
Next weekend I am going to flush the slave cilynder. By the way if I decide to reflush the back calipers only..till I don't see the bubbles..just like the front ones. Is it OK to bleed the rear calipers and not to bleed the front ones? Or I would have to go through whole bleeding again with front calipers involved?
Thanks everyone for you valuable suggestions! They helped me a lot to finish this "project" totally alone from the first time!
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From: Houston, Tx
<<Next weekend I am going to flush the slave cilynder. By the way if I decide to reflush the back calipers only..till I don't see the bubbles..just like the front ones. Is it OK to bleed the rear calipers and not to bleed the front ones? Or I would have to go through whole bleeding again with front calipers involved?>>
Yes, it's okay to just re-bleed the rears. Most people will try & bleed the clutch at the same time as the brakes; it avoids having to setup & teardown all the miscellaneous gear & accompanying risk of spilling brake fluid on the LF fender, etc. Check Robin's DIY on the clutch bleed; the clutch's bleed nipple is a different size, I think a weird one like 7mm. Knowing this in advance helps avoid a LOT of fumbling while under the car!
BTW, I just have to say what a wonderful relief it is for SOMEBODY not to get all whinny, titchy & knee-jerk sensitive to Ray's Tough Love (tm)! Must be that coarse Russian background or something.
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
Yes, it's okay to just re-bleed the rears. Most people will try & bleed the clutch at the same time as the brakes; it avoids having to setup & teardown all the miscellaneous gear & accompanying risk of spilling brake fluid on the LF fender, etc. Check Robin's DIY on the clutch bleed; the clutch's bleed nipple is a different size, I think a weird one like 7mm. Knowing this in advance helps avoid a LOT of fumbling while under the car!
BTW, I just have to say what a wonderful relief it is for SOMEBODY not to get all whinny, titchy & knee-jerk sensitive to Ray's Tough Love (tm)! Must be that coarse Russian background or something.
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
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From: yorba linda, ca
I found that the bleed nipple (I said nipple, uhhh,uhhhhh) is indeed 7mm. Go easy tightening this guy down. Also, dont let the fluid level go down in the m/c reservoir. The pick-up for the clutch is high in the reservoir. I found out the hard way...
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From: Santa Rosa, CA
Pasha, the bubbles could be coming from the hose and not the brake system. Looks like my email arrived too late or you could have come over and done yours while I was doing mine this morning.
Chris, you got little nipples? Mine require an 11 mm wrench.
Chris, you got little nipples? Mine require an 11 mm wrench.
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From: Santa Rosa, CA
Chris, is your car any early build? I'm surprised at the different size, but all 8 of my nipples used an 11 mm to open and bleed. Are you refering to the OD of the nipple itself (so you need a 7 mm ID tube)?