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ECU Doctors say they can program a 96, remove the immobilizer, and delete the SAI issue. One day I'll send them mine for an overhaul once I end up doing a rebuild. I'm
pretty sure I've heard them mentioned numerous times favorably, specifically for the SAI work.
ECU Doctors say they can program a 96, remove the immobilizer, and delete the SAI issue. One day I'll send them mine for an overhaul once I end up doing a rebuild. I'm
pretty sure I've heard them mentioned numerous times favorably, specifically for the SAI work.
Doesn't NY have a 25 yr rule for emissions inspection? If so, they might not require OBD scan for the '96. You would need to check on that.
They inspected my ECU and found it faultless; it was a quick and easy process. I’ve also never had a place keep records of our emails and message conversations so thoroughly, so that was a pleasant surprise.
I *believe* the big difference here would come down to the ecu options which the 95 provides a better scenario. First, I don’t believe there are any tuners in the us that live map the 88 pin chips, best I’ve found is if you did like a 9m build you could send them the 55 pin chip and they could flash it since RoW are the same 55 pin. Next, most likely for a build like that your going aftermarket ecu, I.e Motec. Again I *believe the 95 is a better option for road registering a set up like that as OBD1 is only a visual inspection in most states vs OBD2 requires a plug in test which Motec is not compliant meaning you may not be able to road register a built 96+ in some states if you go that route. Again, this is just based on some of my research but will let the experts weigh in.
Doesn't NY have a 25 yr rule for emissions inspection? If so, they might not require OBD scan for the '96. You would need to check on that.
No, In NYS thru MY95 all cars need a basic inspection which does not include a check for codes, these are OBD1 and earlier cars
all from MY96 up get an enhanced inspection which includes plugging a state owned dongle into the cars OBD2 port to check for codes
They inspected my ECU and found it faultless; it was a quick and easy process. I’ve also never had a place keep records of our emails and message conversations so thoroughly, so that was a pleasant surprise.
They did a nice job on one of my Moronic DME's too, that's not the point
here is a '94/95 993 OBD1 compliant 55 pin Motronic 2.10.1
MY96 993 OBD2 compliant 88 pin Motronic 5.2, twin chip, includes standardized P0xxx trouble codes(J 2012) and freeze frames which include ambient data, flashable chips were not commonly available at that time
MY97/98 as above but w/a single reflashable chip, to reflash the chip needs to be unsoldered taken to a bench tool for flashing, then resoldered
Somewhere along the line after the M5 series the ability to flash through the OBD2 port was implemented, probably M7 but I have never looked into that to deeply
They did a nice job on one of my Moronic DME's too, that's not the point
here is a '94/95 993 OBD1 compliant 55 pin Motronic 2.10.1
MY96 993 OBD2 compliant 88 pin Motronic 5.2, twin chip, includes standardized P0xxx trouble codes(J 2012) and freeze frames which include ambient data, flashable chips were not commonly available at that time
MY97/98 as above but w/a single reflashable chip, to reflash the chip needs to be unsoldered taken to a bench tool for flashing, then resoldered
Somewhere along the line after the M5 series the ability to flash through the OBD2 port was implemented, probably M7 but I have never looked into that to deeply
Sorry I quoted the wrong post. I was just saying that I had a good experience with the ECU Doctors
If you like a quick throttle response I would stay away from the supercharger. They have awful throttle response but will give you peak power.
The 95's do have the smaller intakes and use 9mm vs the later 8mm valves. They also have the older 964 style cam gears but both good engines. I would consider the transmission gearing as mentioned above before doing anything else.
It would seem that Todd from Protomotive figured a way to chip a MY96 ECU. I am no longer using this from my old engine with protomotive turbo setup. I am not sure what the additional chips are for maybe someone can chime in.
If you like a quick throttle response I would stay away from the supercharger. They have awful throttle response but will give you peak power.
The 95's do have the smaller intakes and use 9mm vs the later 8mm valves. They also have the older 964 style cam gears but both good engines. I would consider the transmission gearing as mentioned above before doing anything else.
It would seem that Todd from Protomotive figured a way to chip a MY96 ECU. I am no longer using this from my old engine with protomotive turbo setup. I am not sure what the additional chips are for maybe someone can chime in.
Back in the day they used a piggyback controller to emulate a new chip, most likely that is what was done for the '96, I truly hope that ECU Docs can do this but doubt it very much, do keep use posted should you go that route, as I said they were a pleasure to deal w/ when one of my DMEs suffered cold solder failures
all 993 use the smaller 8mm valve stems
the differences in the heads are in
port size
all normal use 43/39mm
RS, RSR and Cup use 46/42mm
valves
'94/95 nvram use 49/42.5
'96-98 vram use 50/43.5mm
RS, RSR and Cup use 51.5/43.5mm
cams
'94/95 have 1/60/45/5 241/230 duration
'96-98 have 1/59/47/5 240/232 duration
RS has 5/58/50/2 243/232 duration
Cup has 40/92/84/50 248/234 duration
RSR base is 80/114/104/65 280/264 duration
I don't have the RSR sprint motor specs , would live to have them
Back in the day they used a piggyback controller to emulate a new chip, most likely that is what was done for the '96, I truly hope that ECU Docs can do this but doubt it very much, do keep use posted should you go that route, as I said they were a pleasure to deal w/ when one of my DMEs suffered cold solder failures
all 993 use the smaller 8mm valve stems
the differences in the heads are in
port size
all normal use 43/39mm
RS, RSR and Cup use 46/42mm
valves
'94/95 nvram use 49/42.5
'96-98 vram use 50/43.5mm
RS, RSR and Cup use 51.5/43.5mm
cams
'94/95 have 1/60/45/5 241/230 duration
'96-98 have 1/59/47/5 240/232 duration
RS has 5/58/50/2 243/232 duration
Cup has 40/92/84/50 248/234 duration
RSR base is 80/114/104/65 280/264 duration
I don't have the RSR sprint motor specs , would live to have them
Interesting about the valve stems.
I opened a 95 993 engine not long ago and it had 9mm valve stems with 49/42.5 openings and not the 8mm's I am used to seeing on the later engines. Someone was in this engine before I must assume they switched to 9mm valves for heat dissipation. It is the only 95 I have opened so I made an assumption on valve stem size.
Hard to tell from the picture but these were 9mm.
I was told ECU Dr was sold and the last experience i had wasn't like the past. They weren't very forthcoming on what they did and the unit was sealed with a number of warranty stickers. The unit ended up being scrapped and the new unit replaced it worked fine.
I opened a 95 993 engine not long ago and it had 9mm valve stems with 49/42.5 openings and not the 8mm's I am used to seeing on the later engines. Someone was in this engine before I must assume they switched to 9mm valves for heat dissipation. It is the only 95 I have opened so I made an assumption on valve stem size.
Hard to tell from the picture but these were 9mm.
I was told ECU Dr was sold and the last experience i had wasn't like the past. They weren't very forthcoming on what they did and the unit was sealed with a number of warranty stickers. The unit ended up being scrapped and the new unit replaced it worked fine.
If it's an oe 993 head there are 2 things t easily look for
1) RR350 is the alloy used, the only other heads made of this alloy are 930, the alloy designation can be seen here , top left
2) the exhaust has 4 possible std locations
The head in you pic is a US version w/ SAI provision
a RoW head looks like this, no SAI
These are 964 heads, exhaust has only the 2 studs as seen on all previous 911s
I will say this. Ask yourself how big you want to go if you crack open a good engine. If you want to go to a 400 hp monster, so be it. If you want to tweak a few things including 3.8, I wouldn't bother. It's $20-30k to do, and isn't a stellar difference. $30-50k to go monster and really notice the difference. For that you maybe get close to Turbo range.
As said, for seat of the pants, the regear is biggest bang for the buck but even that is $10k+. Mine was $11k 20 years ago and $7k to rebuild a few years ago. But it's fun.
