Oil Sending Unit
Had my oil sending unit / cable wire replaced back in the Fall as it wasn’t registering properly. Then realized it still wasn’t working properly so my mechanic sent out my Oil / Gas gauge out with the sending unit to be tested somewhere in CA. My dash gauge was tested and fine but the new sending unit he had installed was faulty. Ordered up a new sending unit they tested the new one and worked. Shipped back to my mechanic.
He comes today to reinstall the sending unit and my dash gauge and we fire her up and now the gauge is pegged to the top or max. Oil Level Needle just goes right to the top once powered ON. He thinks fishing it through the grommet in the rear wheel well could have damaged it? He is ordering up a new one? What would cause the oil gauge needle to jump to the max position or pegged at the top? Makes no sense since it was tested and shipped back in working order. The dipstick at temp is half way up on the twist. Any ideas guys or experience here???
He comes today to reinstall the sending unit and my dash gauge and we fire her up and now the gauge is pegged to the top or max. Oil Level Needle just goes right to the top once powered ON. He thinks fishing it through the grommet in the rear wheel well could have damaged it? He is ordering up a new one? What would cause the oil gauge needle to jump to the max position or pegged at the top? Makes no sense since it was tested and shipped back in working order. The dipstick at temp is half way up on the twist. Any ideas guys or experience here???
Last edited by Gbos1; Mar 12, 2021 at 09:11 PM.
Had my oil sending unit / cable wire replaced back in the Fall as it wasn’t registering properly. Then realized it still wasn’t working properly so my mechanic sent out my Oil / Gas gauge out with the sending unit to be tested somewhere in CA. My dash gauge was tested and fine but the new sending unit he had installed was faulty. Ordered up a new sending unit they tested the new one and worked. Shipped back to my mechanic.
He comes today to reinstall the sending unit and my dash gauge and we fire her up and now the gauge is pegged to the top or max. Oil Level Needle just goes right to the top once powered ON. He thinks fishing it through the grommet in the rear wheel well could have damaged it? He is ordering up a new one? What would cause the oil gauge needle to jump to the max position or pegged at the top? Makes no sense since it was tested and shipped back in working order. The dipstick at temp is half way up on the twist. Any ideas guys or experience here???
He comes today to reinstall the sending unit and my dash gauge and we fire her up and now the gauge is pegged to the top or max. Oil Level Needle just goes right to the top once powered ON. He thinks fishing it through the grommet in the rear wheel well could have damaged it? He is ordering up a new one? What would cause the oil gauge needle to jump to the max position or pegged at the top? Makes no sense since it was tested and shipped back in working order. The dipstick at temp is half way up on the twist. Any ideas guys or experience here???
You said you sent oil level sender and dash gauge to CA to be tested ???? Why didn't you test it in two seconds next to the car ?
The oil level sender is ULTRA sensitive. Mailing it back and forth is a sure death. When you see it you know. How could anyone not see it.
You say you changed it first, because it did not register properly? is this reasoning between you and yourself ? or you and the mechanic ?
The level sender either works, or not. Register properly is in your head. Say it straight that you wanted oil level when hot, at dipstick mid-twist and dash gauge mid, and mechanic/you f#cked it up
Seems your mechanic is having a nice ride on your register, or he is not a mechanic.
He is doing the fault. He is going to order a few more of the senders, to figure out what he is doing wrong.
Classic
Last edited by geolab; Mar 13, 2021 at 05:43 AM.
You said you sent oil level sender and dash gauge to CA to be tested ???? Why didn't you test it in two seconds next to the car ?
The oil level sender is ULTRA sensitive. Mailing it back and forth is a sure death. When you see it you know. How could anyone not see it.
You say you changed it first, because it did not register properly? is this reasoning between you and yourself ? or you and the mechanic ?
The level sender either works, or not. Register properly is in your head. Say it straight that you wanted oil level when hot, at dipstick mid-twist and dash gauge mid, and mechanic/you f#cked it up
Seems your mechanic is having a nice ride on your register, or he is not a mechanic.
He is doing the fault. He is going to order a few more of the senders, to figure out what he is doing wrong.
Classic
The oil level sender is ULTRA sensitive. Mailing it back and forth is a sure death. When you see it you know. How could anyone not see it.
You say you changed it first, because it did not register properly? is this reasoning between you and yourself ? or you and the mechanic ?
The level sender either works, or not. Register properly is in your head. Say it straight that you wanted oil level when hot, at dipstick mid-twist and dash gauge mid, and mechanic/you f#cked it up
Seems your mechanic is having a nice ride on your register, or he is not a mechanic.
He is doing the fault. He is going to order a few more of the senders, to figure out what he is doing wrong.
Classic
Last edited by Gbos1; Mar 13, 2021 at 09:18 AM.
Originally we thought it was the dash gauge after doing a load test and turned out it wasn’t after it was sent out to be rebuilt. Then the shop testing the dash gauge wanted the sending unit out of the car so it’s Winter here so my mechanic came to my house and took it out of the car and sent it out to them and found out the dash gauge was ok and the sending unit was faulty so he ordered a new one. They tested the gauge and sending unit then sent it back to my mechanic who then came back over to my house and installed it and now the needle just pegs to the top immediately when power is on. He is ordering a new sending unit. BTW he was a Porsche mechanic and last car he worked on was a 993 before branching out on his own. 40 years working on Air Cooled 911s. Known him for years and never an issue.
Well, years of aquaintance, but now, fact is there is an issue.
Issue to me is when someone throws hundreds of dollars to see a problem solved, and calls it no issue.
No issue to me is something that needs half an hour attention to be solved with a few tools, at the expense that it deserves.
Don't take it personnal, but there was no issue initially with your 993. I am mad at Porsche mechanics, sometimes...
It looks like you wanted something to be to your liking, and instead of a simple fine adjustment, Wallet got over reason, and everybody started changing stuff, and sending gauges etc.
I am no mechanic, and have, if we could call it so, a tiny experience, and I don't get along with people who brag,
I wrote in this thread to stop you guys pulling the lines, there is no short.
I will follow your thread and give you my point of view of the solution, when I see you guys need it, with all the hints I told you already
This indirectly, is respectful of the mechanic, he will find out what he is doing wrong soon.
Last edited by geolab; Mar 13, 2021 at 10:34 AM.
Originally we thought it was the dash gauge after doing a load test and turned out it wasn’t after it was sent out to be rebuilt. Then the shop testing the dash gauge wanted the sending unit out of the car so it’s Winter here so my mechanic came to my house and took it out of the car and sent it out to them and found out the dash gauge was ok and the sending unit was faulty so he ordered a new one. They tested the gauge and sending unit then sent it back to my mechanic who then came back over to my house and installed it and now the needle just pegs to the top immediately when power is on. He is ordering a new sending unit. BTW he was a Porsche mechanic and last car he worked on was a 993 before branching out on his own. 40 years working on Air Cooled 911s. Known him for years and never an issue.
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If you speak of the oil pressure gauge...
The oil pressure gauge should be pegged at the top until the oil warms up. Can take up to 20 minutes to warm fully:
Here is something on how the gauges should behave:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...-leveloil.html
Hope this helps,
Andy
The oil pressure gauge should be pegged at the top until the oil warms up. Can take up to 20 minutes to warm fully:
Here is something on how the gauges should behave:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...-leveloil.html
Hope this helps,
Andy
Last edited by pp000830; Mar 13, 2021 at 05:57 PM.
If you speak of the oil pressure gauge...
The oil pressure gauge should be pegged at the top until the oil warms up. Can take up to 20 minutes to warm fully:
Here is something on how the gauges should behave:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...-leveloil.html
Hope this helps,
Andy
The oil pressure gauge should be pegged at the top until the oil warms up. Can take up to 20 minutes to warm fully:
Here is something on how the gauges should behave:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...-leveloil.html
Hope this helps,
Andy



