Need true Bolt In roll cage for '95 993 Cab
#1
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From: Carmel, IN
Need true Bolt In roll cage for '95 993 Cab
I'm wanting to start doing some track/DE events in my car so am shopping for a roll cage for my '95 993 Cab - I'd like to be able to remove it when not needed so that my kids can still ride in the car with me.
In looking at several bars such as DAS, FVD and Perf Products, I've seen them referenced as "bolt in" but also saw the not on Das' site indicating that "It requires a minor modification to the floor of the car" (not sure what that modification is yet).
I'd rather not drill new any holes in my car to put this in - are any bars available bolt in to existing holes?
Thanks much.
In looking at several bars such as DAS, FVD and Perf Products, I've seen them referenced as "bolt in" but also saw the not on Das' site indicating that "It requires a minor modification to the floor of the car" (not sure what that modification is yet).
I'd rather not drill new any holes in my car to put this in - are any bars available bolt in to existing holes?
Thanks much.
#2
Rick, can I make a suggestion? Sell the 7 series and buy a '95 Cup car. It makes a lot more sense than turning your Cabriolet into a track car. And I assume you mean a roll bar, as opposed to a full cage.
FWIW.
FWIW.
#3
Rick,
I had the DAS roll bar put in my C4 cab by Dougherty Automotive. They did have to drill several holes for both forward floor mounting points. The rears attached to the existing rear seat belt mounting points. With the mats in place you can't see any evidence of the drilling. I figure when I want to remove the bar, I can just put rubber plugs in the holes, then recover with the mats.
So far I have left the bar in place as I haven't felt the need to remove it, even with the top down. Windscreen fits fine. The only downside, which hasn't bothered me (I'm 6'0), is with rearward travel of the seat. The back of my seat is very close to the bar but I still have pretty much an ideal seating distance. Someone a couple of inches taller might have some trouble. I believe if you talk with Colin, there may be something that they can do to remedy that.
The bar seems very solid and well constructed. Definitely stiffens up the car.
Steve
I had the DAS roll bar put in my C4 cab by Dougherty Automotive. They did have to drill several holes for both forward floor mounting points. The rears attached to the existing rear seat belt mounting points. With the mats in place you can't see any evidence of the drilling. I figure when I want to remove the bar, I can just put rubber plugs in the holes, then recover with the mats.
So far I have left the bar in place as I haven't felt the need to remove it, even with the top down. Windscreen fits fine. The only downside, which hasn't bothered me (I'm 6'0), is with rearward travel of the seat. The back of my seat is very close to the bar but I still have pretty much an ideal seating distance. Someone a couple of inches taller might have some trouble. I believe if you talk with Colin, there may be something that they can do to remedy that.
The bar seems very solid and well constructed. Definitely stiffens up the car.
Steve
#4
Rick,
Check the thread posted earlier this month on the same subject. Here was my reply at that time:
I recently installed the DAS bar (www.das-sport.com) in my 98' Cab. The bar cost about $900 with the optional harness loops and universal camera mount. The bar arrives unpainted so I had a local shop powder coat it satin black for $75. It is one-piece, completely welded (no bolt-together pieces) and weighs approx. 50lbs. Very solid.
Installation was a snap. The two rear mounts bolt directly to the rear seatbelt mounting points. The two fron mounts require six holes (3 per side) to be drilled in the floorpan behind the fron seats. There are two substantial backing plates that mount under the car. Total installation time was about 1 hour and was easily managed by 1 person. Now that the drilling is done, I can remove the bar in about 20 minutes and re-install in about 30.
I lost about an inch of legroom but everything else is perfect. The top function normally and the windscreen remains in place and functional. I'm happy to post some digital pictures if you'd like but won't be able to until later tonight or tomorrow.
Regards,
MC
DAS
Check the thread posted earlier this month on the same subject. Here was my reply at that time:
I recently installed the DAS bar (www.das-sport.com) in my 98' Cab. The bar cost about $900 with the optional harness loops and universal camera mount. The bar arrives unpainted so I had a local shop powder coat it satin black for $75. It is one-piece, completely welded (no bolt-together pieces) and weighs approx. 50lbs. Very solid.
Installation was a snap. The two rear mounts bolt directly to the rear seatbelt mounting points. The two fron mounts require six holes (3 per side) to be drilled in the floorpan behind the fron seats. There are two substantial backing plates that mount under the car. Total installation time was about 1 hour and was easily managed by 1 person. Now that the drilling is done, I can remove the bar in about 20 minutes and re-install in about 30.
I lost about an inch of legroom but everything else is perfect. The top function normally and the windscreen remains in place and functional. I'm happy to post some digital pictures if you'd like but won't be able to until later tonight or tomorrow.
Regards,
MC
DAS
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From: Carmel, IN
Matt (H20NOO) - thanks much for the info; hope to catch you on my next trip to SJC.
BTW...note to the other Matt - I'd think about selling the 740iL except then I'd need somewhere new to live! (wife likes the car).
Over the long run, I will buy another car but looking to be able to put this car on the track 2-3 times this year while I'm looking for the correct track/DE car. Probably will need to be something cheaper than a '95 Cup Car so if anyone has any good suggestions...
BTW...note to the other Matt - I'd think about selling the 740iL except then I'd need somewhere new to live! (wife likes the car).
Over the long run, I will buy another car but looking to be able to put this car on the track 2-3 times this year while I'm looking for the correct track/DE car. Probably will need to be something cheaper than a '95 Cup Car so if anyone has any good suggestions...
#6
[quote]Originally posted by Rick:
<strong>Matt (H20NOO) Probably will need to be something cheaper than a '95 Cup Car so if anyone has any good suggestions...</strong><hr></blockquote>
Three factory cars come to mind.. 944 Turbo Canadian Cup Car/Firehawk/Playboy/Escort series car awesome car for the money with close to 300hp and 2800 lbs. These also came with an S2 engine with about 220hp.
Or if you want a 911 look for a 964 Euro Cup Car. These are fast and very light (though for Club Racing you would need to add some weight I think)
All these car come ready to race with nothing else needed if they are in good condition.
Greg
<strong>Matt (H20NOO) Probably will need to be something cheaper than a '95 Cup Car so if anyone has any good suggestions...</strong><hr></blockquote>
Three factory cars come to mind.. 944 Turbo Canadian Cup Car/Firehawk/Playboy/Escort series car awesome car for the money with close to 300hp and 2800 lbs. These also came with an S2 engine with about 220hp.
Or if you want a 911 look for a 964 Euro Cup Car. These are fast and very light (though for Club Racing you would need to add some weight I think)
All these car come ready to race with nothing else needed if they are in good condition.
Greg
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From: Carmel, IN
Does anyone have an opinion on FVD's roll bars? They sent me an email indicating that their bar is 100% bolt-in with no drilling required. Also, the front seatbelts are still totally functional.
Seems worth a look.
Seems worth a look.
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#8
I hate to bring this up again, as it has been mentioned in the past. What you all are considering is fine in the DE world, but I am not sure if they will be legal in PCA Club Racing.
Here is the quote from the 2002 PCA clubracing rule book:
[quote]<strong>ALL vehicles competing in the PCA Club Racing Program must be equipped with an approved roll bar. The roll bar must be securely mounted to the floor and/or longitudinal members of the unibody with the top of the main hoop at least 2" above the driver’s helmet when the driver is seated in the normal driving position. The mounting area of “bolt-in” roll bars must be backed by a plate of a size equal to that of the upper mounting plate with a minimum thickness of 3/16". Bolts must be grade 5 or higher. The roll bar must be mounted directly to the metal of the chassis and any padding, carpet, upholstery, etc. must be removed to satisfy this requirement. The roll bar must be full cockpit width, except as originally supplied by the factory for open race cars, and have two fore/aft braces of tubing size equal to the main hoop. The braces must be mounted as near to the top of the main hoop as possible and at an included angle of at least 30 degrees. Additionally, the roll bar assembly must contain a transverse (left to right side) brace. An inspection hole 3/16" in diameter must be provided in a non-critical area for verification of tube thickness. Any portion of the roll bar which may come in contact with the driver’s helmet must be covered with high density foam 1" thick held securely in place with electrical or duct tape.</strong><hr></blockquote>
By bringing this up I just want to make sure everyone considers it.
E. J.
Here is the quote from the 2002 PCA clubracing rule book:
[quote]<strong>ALL vehicles competing in the PCA Club Racing Program must be equipped with an approved roll bar. The roll bar must be securely mounted to the floor and/or longitudinal members of the unibody with the top of the main hoop at least 2" above the driver’s helmet when the driver is seated in the normal driving position. The mounting area of “bolt-in” roll bars must be backed by a plate of a size equal to that of the upper mounting plate with a minimum thickness of 3/16". Bolts must be grade 5 or higher. The roll bar must be mounted directly to the metal of the chassis and any padding, carpet, upholstery, etc. must be removed to satisfy this requirement. The roll bar must be full cockpit width, except as originally supplied by the factory for open race cars, and have two fore/aft braces of tubing size equal to the main hoop. The braces must be mounted as near to the top of the main hoop as possible and at an included angle of at least 30 degrees. Additionally, the roll bar assembly must contain a transverse (left to right side) brace. An inspection hole 3/16" in diameter must be provided in a non-critical area for verification of tube thickness. Any portion of the roll bar which may come in contact with the driver’s helmet must be covered with high density foam 1" thick held securely in place with electrical or duct tape.</strong><hr></blockquote>
By bringing this up I just want to make sure everyone considers it.
E. J.
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From: Carmel, IN
[quote]Originally posted by Rick - C4 Cab:
<strong>You also should know that the FVD bar is a 1.5: diameter bar with a 0.095" wall thickness which does not meet most PCA or POC rules for time trials and DE's.
Rick....</strong><hr></blockquote>
<strong>You also should know that the FVD bar is a 1.5: diameter bar with a 0.095" wall thickness which does not meet most PCA or POC rules for time trials and DE's.
Rick....</strong><hr></blockquote>
#12
I have the DAS bar as well. Very nice bar. If you get one, consider having it shipped to a body shop to have the weld marks ground down and the bar painted. Matt's pictures say it all so no need for me to post same. If you change your mind, re sale value on the bar is very high. I tried to buy a used one for months before I broke down and bought a new one. When they do come up for sale, they move very fast. Last year, there was a 3-5 week wait from DAS once the DE season started (May) so if you need one be sure to check on the lead time