Kerrysatx

Ok - Thanks to all of you who posted all of the valuable information here. I just finished my install. It did not go as smoothly as most of yours, but it is in, and works. Most of the problems I had cam from my half-reading the directions posted here. The rest came in different forms. Here goes, in case there is someone just like me out there (uh...no too bright)...

For starters, I ordered the crimestoppers unit that was used by one of the previous posters...this was because he gave detail instructions of which wires to use off of the unit itself. However, when UPS came, I inadvertantly had ordered a replacement transmitter only (1st mistake). Not to be disswaded, I went to Circuit City and purchased the code alarm keyless entry unit.

Back at home, I pulled the drivers seat (uh...mistake 2), then reinstalled (skip this step if you are following along at home). After puilling the passeger seat, I saw that I had a green sticker, and an 02 on the end of the number. Regardless, I followed the wiring instructions given inthe first post, and it all worked correctly.

The only other things I will mention is that the locking on our cars is "negative" and you should follow that wiring diagram in your manual (entry system manual). This was mentioned in an earlier post - but I missed that (maybe while I was pulling the driver's seat). The other thing is that I worked for about 30 minutes second guessing myself after I had the unit properly installed. The problem I was having was that when I locked the car, it would lock...then unlock each time. I did not know that this is normal if the passenger door is open. It took me a long time to close the door, then try it out. With the doors closed it was fine.

This all took me about 3 hours. I am very satisfied now, but was fit to be tied a few times. I could do this again in about 45 min (with same alarm...without removing the drivers seat!) Overall - this was very satisfing, and I will get a smile on my face each time I use this feature!

Thanks again

JohnJL

I love ressurecting old threads...this is a great one and I need a little further detail...

I've got the exact controller pictured in the initial post...928.618.260.01 with the yellow sticker. This is a 4/95 C2 no alarm (but its got the sticker!)

Question # 1:

I'm installing an alarm system with remote entry and so it is a little more complex than the JC Whitney hookup. I've got the following schematic from the alarm instructions (Crime Guard 745i4)...

"unlock" (+) or (-) Input (NO) - Violet
"Unlock" Output (COM) - Blue
"Unlock" Input (NC) - Brown
"Lock" (+) or (-) Input (NO) - Violet/Black
"Lock" Output (COM) - Green/Black
"Lock" input (NC) - White/Black

Can anyone help decypher which of these hooks to which wire on the 928.618.260.01 harness?

Question #2
Which wire on the 928.618.260.01 harness is the parking light flasher input? THat is, which wire in that harness, when powered, will feed the parking lights?

Question #3
Is the Dome Light "positive switching" or "negative switching?"

Question #4
Has anyone tapped into the existing red LED indicators in the car and powered them with an aftermarket alarm? I don't want to install another LED and would like to use those.

Question #5
Where can I get a definitive wiring diagram?

Thanks all!

rainmn

John, I just added remote keyless entry to my '95 a couple weeks ago, so I'll tell you what I can. Mine had the green sticker, so the wiring was not exactly the same as yours though.
1. You'll need t take a look at the diagram for your alarm. Sounds like it is set up to do all three types of door lock circuits. (Positive switched, negative switched, and reversing polarity.) Our cars are negative switched. Your unlock outputs (Green, Green / Black) will go to the lock / unlock wires in the car. Some combination, if not all, of the others will be grounded. That's where you'll have to check your directions.
2. There is no parking light wire, per say. There are two separate wires that flash left and right turn signals. You'll have to split your alarm output into two, then place a diode in each one. At least that's what I did. I can't recall the wire colors right now, but I'll see if I wrote them down. If I remember right, they were in the black plug, not the yellow, and they were both brown with a tracer.
3. Dome light is negative switched. For reference, pretty much Fords only are positive switched.
4. If you have the factory alarm with no remote, which I assume you do, since you have LED's, no need to do anything. When you hit the remote and lock your doors, the factory system will arm just as if you locked the doors with the key (And flash the LEDs.) Disarming will be the same.
5. I have no clue.

This was one of the first things I did to my car, less than a week after I got it. I haven't used keys to unlock a car in well over 10 years, with the exception of my Jeeps (But they don't normally have doors.) The end result is well worth the effort. For me, it was pretty simple, as I was a car audio / alarm installer in a former life, many years ago in college.

JohnJL

Would love those notes on the parking light wiring. Do you recall the specs of the diodes? ALso, which direction does the stripe on the diode face?

Ideally comeone could help me with a conprehensive wiring diagram....pretty please?

Thanks all,
john

JohnJL

Oh yeah, and is there an "always on" batt + connection in that door unlock harness? Wire color?

rainmn

John, I took a look and found that I did jot down a couple of the wire colors when I did the install, but not all. Those turn signal leads were actually black w/ white & black w/ green, both in the harness with the black plug. In that same harness, the brown w/ white is the door switch lead. There is a constant +12V in the harness, but I didn't write it down. Pretty sure it was solid red, and definitely a heavier gauge than the rest.
As for the diodes, the bands should be closest to the car wiring. Can't help you on the ratings of them, since I didn't buy them. I had a pile left over from the install days, but they have no markings other than the band.

JohnJL

Awesome. Thanks. Rainmn, its cool to see someone join as early in your post count as you did. Good move and welcome!
I laid out some of the components to see where I needed to place the various units (there is a central control, a "radar" motion/range sensor, the siren, a sound microphone (breaking glass and 'jimmying' sensor) and the starter interrupt relay.

I need to search for directions for removing the ignition cylinder...need to tap in there somewhere...I'll search now, but if anyone wants to volunteer a link or too...

To answer my own earlier question, there are lots of leads for batt+ always-on. Pins # 4,6 & 8 on the passenger and driver's seat control harness are all hot, as are all the turn signals apparently though with too little draw to trigger the "flasher." Even with the key out they will illuminate steady but not flash. Kind of weird...definately not how toyota does it...

I also found some spare diodes from my install box, those whould work fine...

thanks!

EDIT: Here's a link I found on the 964 pages : https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/20690-round-key-slot-ring.html

Nothin in the 993 pages about removing the ignition, probably the same. Too cold outside to go and check it now....

JohnJL

Rainmn, others

When you hooked up your lock/unlock wires, did you splice them in as appropriate, or did you cut them from the harness and wire them directly into the alarm/remote controller?

thanks

rainmn

Spliced into the wires. I wouldn't recommend cutting anything...no need to.

JohnJL

Thanks again!

Johnny_B

Thanks to Mike.S for the wiring instructions...Not taking out the seat and using wire taps this mod just took me 42 minutes and only one scraped knuckle (pinky - useless finger anyway). Used the JC Whitney unit.

TheOtherEric

Actually, now that you bring this thread up, I feel that I also owe a thanks to Mike.S and others for their instructions. I installed an Autopage 855LCD, which is an alarm with built-in relays for door locks. Found on Ebay. Gotta love this board!

mingson

Here is my wiring diagram. What do I connect to what?

BTW,
N/C is Normally Closed and N/O is Normally Open.

The relays are built in to the unit. TIA!

OUR9II

Excellent thread, thank you to all!

One question on the diodes used to tie the split single wire from the keyless entry module's light flash output, to the two turn signal (Black/White, Black/Green) wires:

My DEI-712T light flash output is called "high current" (ref. wire H1/10 on the .pdf below), and has a small 10A fuse with two positions used to switch between +/- out. Do I need (rectifier) diodes rated up to 10A to send my (-) signal to the turn signals?

For reference:
http://www.directechs.com/guides/ma...N712T_01-05.pdf
http://www.nichols.nu/tip789.htm

Thank you in advance.

Mike
'93 C2
'72T

OUR9II

Sorry about the link to the .pdf.

Try this:

http://www.directechs.com/guides/man...712T_01-05.pdf

Mike
'93 C2
'72T