nile13

Boris, I'm very glad it worked!

I would like to update the instructions if possible. Do you have any other pictures of the green-labeled control unit? If not, I'll use the one you posted (wanted it a little more in focus).

The other question - where did you find the wires you tapped into? Are they availabel under the seat or did you have to go inside the door? Finally, how did you tap in? Polarity to Ground, Lock to ... Unlock to...?

Thanks!

FlyYellow

Mike,

In order to update the instructions we should figure out why my wiring colors are different from the workshop manual. also from a pin out perspective i used pins 2 & 4 on the yellow connector. so they were under the passenger seat.

i'll take another picture later today and send it to you.

cheers,
boris

FlyYellow

mike,

as i was futzing around i figured why not hook up the turn signals to the flashing lights output. since you are an electrical guy (i'm just a computer guy) i thought i'd ask.

on the same box i found the wires that trigger Left & Right turn signals. However, my alarm only has one output. Therefore, in theory what i should do is split the wire into two wires. each of the wires should have a diode and then connect them to Left & Right turn signals. That way the lights will flash as a confirmation that the doors either locked or unlocked.

does that theory make sense to you?

Cheers,
Boris

nile13

I think I should split it into: "If you have a yellow sticker on your control box - do that" and "If you have green sticker - do that". That's why I'd like a good pic of the box with the sticker. I also would like a good pic of the wire tap and a place where they can be readily bought, as I'd rather avoid people hacking into wires.

As to why the book differs from your car - the only thing that comes to mind is that the book was publisjed in August of '94 and yours is a fairly late '95 car. BTW, what month was it made?

FlyYellow

Mine has a build date of 2/95

Bigbartguy

Mike
thanks for the very informative post. I was dissapointed when I realized that my new 1995 lacked keyless entry. I ordered cheap ($39) system from JC Whitney and attempted the installation according to your instructions. Pretty painless and I was done in maybe 60-90 minutes !!!!

Being electrically 'dim', I could have never figured this out on my own.

I appreciate the help !! Great write-up !!

fyi - my remote works exactly as suppposed to : press lock to lock, press unlock to unlock. I do not have the parking light flash feature on the system.

thanks again !
Tim

nile13

Tim, try this for me - unlock the car with remote, wait about 2 seconds and hit unlock button again. See if the car locks. Let me know, please.
To the rest of those who attempt installation - I will add Boris' invaluable comments and insight to this write up, as the late cars are clearly a bit different and he also devised a very simple way to have the parking light blink when the car locks and unlocks. I just haven't had a chance to do that yet, but he did and it works.

BS911

Ok... another one down. Thanks Mike S. and Boris. My car has a build date of 10/94, no immobiliser, the green sticker with a part number of 928.618.260.02.



I left the passenger seat in for the whole process. I moved the seat all the way back, unbolted the 9mm plastic retaining nut on the front of the control unit, then moved the seat all the way forward and gently pulled the control unit out. There are 2 zip tie holders that you will need cut to free enough slack to allow movement, but no big deal and you can simply resecure those with new zip ties when done. There was still plenty of room to work behind the seat. See...



I did just as Boris said... tapped into blue/white and green/white for the lock and unlock triggers. A point of note... the lock button ONLY locks, and the unlock button ONLY unlocks. Multiple unlocks do nothing and multiple locks do nothing. Might be specific to the green sticker .02 version boxes.

The particular keyless entry unit I bought was the Crimestopper CS-865RKE for $50 at logjamelectronics.com. (No affiliation, but I ordered online in the morning, the unit was shipped that afternoon with corresponding email confirmation and tracking numbers, and arrived via UPS exactly as expected.) I picked this particular unit because it had built in lock and unlock relays where some seem to need additional relays. On this unit, there was a blue/black that tapped in to the blue/white (mentioned above from the yellow block on the control unit) and a green/black that tapped into green/white. Then there was a violet and a violet/black that both tapped into the "source" signal. Our cars have a negative signal to actuate the lock/unlock, so those two wires tapped into ground. Then, you tap to a battery source, a ground source, and a battery "switched" positive source (probably for optional features) and you're all done. Doing some "figuring" this took me about an hour or so. I highly, highly, HIGHLY recommend this DIY for a tremendous feature/convenience bang for the buck.

Again... thanks Mike for doing the dirty work and figuring this out for everyone. I sent you a pm, but if you need any more specific pictures, I still have some "finishing" work to put this all together nice and pretty, so just shout and I'd be glad to provide.

nile13

Brian, you have PM, but I just re-read Boris' notes and want to reconfirm something with both of you. Do blue/white and green/white wires go into the yellow connector? Do you know by any chance what pin numbers they correspond to?
Thanks!

FlyYellow

yes they go into the yellow connector. don't remember the pin #s...

Brian - glad it worked for you. Did you do the flashing parking lights?

Cheers,
Boris

Bigbartguy

Mike, no the unlock button only unlocks the doors......never locks them, at 2 seconds, 5 seconds, etc. I couldnt get the unlock button to lock the doors. Same w/ lock button.

I did notice something though - after repeated & immediate locks/unlocks (maybe 7 or 8) - that the both buttons only control the interior light and stops locking/unlocking the doors. Almost like the system said "hey somebody is screwing around here". I can hear the JC Whitney unit 'activating' but to door locks dont do anything. After about 20 seconds it will function normally again. I dont know if the Porsche system has some auto-shut down feature or what? Maybe it's to stop battery drain if the lock/unlock gets stuck in a loop and keeps locking/unlocking repeatedly? Again I'm electrically challenged and have no idea if that is even feasible.

I used 5 wires from the IC Dynamics/Valiant keyless unit:
*red (power & fused) - to power lead (used the red lead going into the black plug that connnects to Control unit/Central Locking unit

*white (polarity & fused) - to ground
* black (ground) - to ground
*green (unlock) - to brown/green
*yellow (lock) - to brown/blue

the very small issue that I discovered has no bearing in actual use however (unless young child gets a hold of the remote!)

Again, thanks for the assistance !! Please let me know if you need any more info.
Tim

nile13

Tim, I have a strange artifact as well, but it happens so infrequently, I pay no attention. The remote sometimes doesn't unlock the car. A repeated stab at the button does the trick. Happened maybe 3-4 times in 3 weeks I've had the unit installed, so I'm not sure what it is, nor am I worried. The good thing is that internal dome light is a good indication of whether the doors unlocked or not. I'm also planning to do what Boris did - get the parking lights wired.

On my "lock with either button" issue - it's entirely possible that I modified both of my remotes to do that. This unit was first installed in my BMW about 4-5 years ago and I never liked the fact that I need to remember which button is which. I hacked one remote (though I don't recall what I did with it), it's possible that I did teh second one as well back than. It's also possible that my hack causes my issue above, but it's so minor that I pay no attention.

What you are describing might be a very simple issue of overheating the solenoid that moves the door lovcking pin. It's a mechanical part with fairly high current that goes through it. I would not be surprised that it stops operation when it's hot.

BTW, I used the same 5 wires on the remote unit, this is bare minmum.

FlyYellow

mike,

i've had 0 issues with mine. i really like have it tapped into the turn signals for exactly that reason! and with turn signals you can see them during the day - parking lights are a little more of challenge to see.

Cheers,
Boris

BS911

Yes. The wires were in the yellow connector. One was pin 2 and sorry I didn't confirm the second pin.

I wanted to do flashing parking lights... Do you know off hand which wires they were to tap in to? Likewise for a horn chirp on arming? Is that wire right around there too I could hit?

FlyYellow

Brian,

for parking lights u will need to tap into the headlight switch.

if you do what i did, the turn signals, those are on the black harness on the same box. so those are in the vicinity. but u will need to use either a relay or what i did above...

cheers,
boris