nile13

If I thought of it, I'd use the taps as well. But it's too late now.

One thing I _hate_ about working on German wiring is that tape. The gooey residue it leaves just makes my stomach turn. After chasing electrical issues on my two BMWs I was hoping to never feel or smell that stuff on my hands again... but noooo....

Mike_A

Mike....many thanks for the procedure and an outstanding post....looks like even a mech engr can do this (and i didn't have to remember ELI the ICE man)

FlyYellow

mike,

ok - so i went to try it tonight and mine is in fact different.

i have a brown/blue wire but no brown/green.

so here is what i deducted. there is a yellow wire that is a grounding wire from the switch in the center console (door lock/unlock switch). but that won't work - near as i can tell.

so i'm guessing that i have to take apart the door handle and figure out which is the lock and the unlock wires and trace it back to the unit. do you have any other ideas.

as a side note, my alarm has a green label and the part # ends in 02
i'm guessing i have a newer '95 than you do.

cheers,
boris

nile13

Boris, mine, in fact, is a Feb '94 built car labeled as a '95 model. nevertheless, the data was from an official factory schematics manual for '95, so I expected them to be the same.

Let's figure it out. What are the wires going into pin 1 and pin 2 of the yellow connector (they are in the same row of 13 pins there)? Could you ohm out those two wires when somebody turns the key in the lock? In my case pin 1 is Brown/Blue "Lock" and pin 2 is Brown/Green "Unlock".

However, I just looked at the diagrams again. They are separated into two separate sets by VINs. if you could send me your VIN, I'll try to figure it out for your car. In the meantime, the second half of the book shows same color wires going to the controller, but doesn't show the door locks _at all_. Which tells me that it's probably for late 95s with Immobilizer?

FlyYellow

mike,

my vin is WPOCA2991SS341843

Pin one is brown/blue
Pine two is brown/white

they however do not ground with the key turned in the door.

cheers,
boris

nile13

OK, Boris, your car is definitely covered by the second part of the book (VINs starting with 21452).

Looking at the diagram for "Lock controller", it shows designation M530, "Code Lock". Pins 1 and 2 on the yellow connector still show Br/Bl and Br/Gr wires with signal coming from the aforementined "Code lock" box. Which is labeled "Anti Drive-off (Immobilizer??) This box shows a single 16-pin connector with pin 3 (Br/Bl) "Lock" and pin 14 (Br/Gn) "Unlock". What the inputs are into this mysterious "Anti Drive-off" controller I can't figure out yet.
The diagram is not showing the cylinder switch like mine does. At all. I also don't see any Brown/White wire going to 26-pin yellow connector.

Weird, weird, weird. Could you snap a couple of pictures of teh 26-pin connector?

FlyYellow

ok here is a hi-res picture....

FlyYellow

and that blue thing is the wire tap....in case you are wondering

boris

nile13

Boris, this will sound stupid, perhaps, but have you pulled the yellow connector and tried to ohm out the first two pins to the ground? What do you see when the key is turned in the _driver's_ door to lock and unlock positions?

Do you know if you indeed have that other box - "Anti Drive-off"?

FlyYellow

i don't have the anti-drive off immobilizier (at least i don't think so).

i did try and ground out those pins and nothing happens.

what i really need is a helper that is stronger than my son (3.5 years old) to turn the key while i try and figure out which pin it is on the yellow connector. my wife just got home - i'm going to see if she will help...

i'll post back once i'm done.

btw, where is the immboilizier unit located? thanks for all the help...

Cheers,
Boris

FlyYellow

ok now i verified that the driver's door does not trigger a grounding signal on any of the wires on the alarm unit. hmmmm. i'm stumped.... i guess i'm going to sleep on it. any ideas are always welcome.

cheers,
boris

nile13

I doesn't show in the book where the M530 box is located for some reason
The other interesting thing is that the book was printed in August of '94. So there might have been some changes that did not make it to the book?
Still, I think you'll get a much better idea once your wife tirns the key (that sounded a little prophetic, no? ).

nile13

Just read your latest findings.... I think you need to find this M530 / Anti Drive-off box and see how the signals are coming into it, or what it's sending out on pins 3 and 14.
I think it might be under the driver's seat but am not sure. This is frustrating.

FlyYellow

ok i'll pull the driver's seat tomorrow and check. thanks for the heads up. the only way i can explain this mystery is that i do have the immobilizier unit. but i guess i'll find out tomorrow.

cheers,
boris

FlyYellow

Mike,

Thanks for all the help. i got it to work. here is what i figured out.


my car has no microswitch for the door lock. Rather the turning of the key actually pulls up or down the lock. that in turn triggers an electrical grounding signal to activate the alarm. in my case the right and left doors are wired to one another (to stay in synch). therefore you need to find the driver & passenger door triggers and the one wired between them. once i found that i was able to tap into those wires. for my car it was the green/white and blue/white wires. once i tapped into those it worked excellent!!!!!!!!!!!

side note:

1) i suppose that my wiring harness is different because my system incorporates the option for the drive block (which i do not have).

2) the wiring diagram from the factory workshop is NOT accurate on my car. I do NOT have the colors in my wiring harness that you do. I checked all the options including the drive block. my only conclusion is that my car had the wiring harness replaced (due to recall) and perhaps they changed the colors.

in any case - i have success - i'm happy.

Mike - thanks for all your help! and the motivation to do this.

cheers,
boris