Garage Floor options
03-24-2004, 11:15 AM
#16
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sammamish, WA
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also a first time poster, and 993 wannabe. I used the Rustoleum Epoxyshield over 6 months ago and it has shown no sign of degradation or lifting despite my constant abuse (spilling brake fluid & gasoline, dropping sledgehammers, dragging ramps and jackstands, etc.). I was pretty **** about the prep (although not to the same degree as jdoc7) and let the floor dry a full day in 80 degree weather before applying the paint.
-John
-John
03-24-2004, 01:01 PM
#17
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Dr Ken - I have gone the epoxy route with lifting, and was curious about the vct tiles (the Home Depot guy here didn't recommend them, but what do they know). I assume your talking about the inexpensive thin (1/16"?) semi-flexible glue down tiles. How long did you ever stay in any of your houses and what did the floor look like? I would think it would be a real pain to replace if it ever needed to be. Also, fwiw, I was thinking about all black where the cars park (so the staining won't show), and checkerboard everywhere else.
03-24-2004, 01:09 PM
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 2,956
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I went the professional prep & paint route - a bead blasting machine powered by a 240v generator, then handheld diamond grinders to work all the corners. Three coats of industrial grade two-part epoxy, with grit under the final coat for traction.
I waited for spring last year to have ideal weather/temperature, and it's held up for one year so far - no lifting, lots of abuse from jackstands, etc.
Expensive, but NO aggravation so far
I waited for spring last year to have ideal weather/temperature, and it's held up for one year so far - no lifting, lots of abuse from jackstands, etc.
Expensive, but NO aggravation so far
03-24-2004, 01:18 PM
#19
in reply to above question about length of time i have been in a house i have put the floor in.
one 7yr, one 3yr and current one 4yr.
all looked good to the end. but it is in my home garage, not a professional shop that is hammered every day.
the tiles have the color all the way through so scratches dont show to bad.
individual tiles can be changed if damaged and it is inexpensive to install.
the really good epoxy floors are most likely better (like used in NASCAR shops) but there cost is no object and prep is done to the tee.
please email me w/your phone # if you are there, and i can call you and tell you more if you wish (there is more to tell)
drkgar@msn.com
one 7yr, one 3yr and current one 4yr.
all looked good to the end. but it is in my home garage, not a professional shop that is hammered every day.
the tiles have the color all the way through so scratches dont show to bad.
individual tiles can be changed if damaged and it is inexpensive to install.
the really good epoxy floors are most likely better (like used in NASCAR shops) but there cost is no object and prep is done to the tee.
please email me w/your phone # if you are there, and i can call you and tell you more if you wish (there is more to tell)
drkgar@msn.com
Last edited by dr kenneth e garchow; 03-25-2004 at 02:36 AM.
03-24-2004, 01:52 PM
#20
Intermediate
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Moose:
Stay away from the Behr product. I used it last year and it started lifting in 3 to 4 months. And that was during the summer. During the winter the sand tracked in on the tires wore the epoxy down. It needs to be repainted after a year.
And I did all the prep - etching, rinsing, prep, 2 coats, etc., etc.
I did look good for a while.
But I would not recommend, especially in New England.
John
Stay away from the Behr product. I used it last year and it started lifting in 3 to 4 months. And that was during the summer. During the winter the sand tracked in on the tires wore the epoxy down. It needs to be repainted after a year.
And I did all the prep - etching, rinsing, prep, 2 coats, etc., etc.
I did look good for a while.
But I would not recommend, especially in New England.
John
03-24-2004, 01:57 PM
#21
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'm telling you - go the simple route. Clean and paint (3 coats) with garage paint. Add a large floor mat (17' x 9') to protect the area you drive and park on.
Less than $400 for both sides....no paint lifting - looks great - cleans up easy.
Less than $400 for both sides....no paint lifting - looks great - cleans up easy.
04-06-2004, 04:02 AM
#23
Thinking outside da' bun...
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Guys-
A couple things Id like to add my two cents on.
First, the black/white tile example above is looking like a great inexpensive alternative. I will have to keep that in mind as Im doing my own garage as I speak.
One advantage of the plastic tiles you lay over the concrete floor is that is is a HUGE advantage during the winter when the concrete is ice cold. The tiles do not conduct the heat and therefore you can sit on the tiles, lay down on them, etc etc, without getting cold. No matter what you do, if you do not elevate yourself above the actual concrete like the plastic tiles do, you will freeze your buns off in the winter when on your hands and knees. Buddy of mine has the elevated plastic tiles and when its -5 degrees out you can be inside working on the car, waxing it, etc etc and not freeze the heck out of yourself. Also, they are a decent cushion compared to just going the epoxy or industrial floor tile route. Not soft mind you, but you can sit on them and not feel like your butt it going to fall off.
Second, on the racedeck tiles. They are about $4 a square foot. Kiwi tiles are pretty much the same thing at under $3 a square foot. The cheapest Ive been able to find them.
If you live in a warm weather climate, the industrial tiles look like a cheap great way. Living in Ohio, I just dont know if I can get away with it. Even with a heater in the garage, the concrete will not rise in temperature much as the driveway outside and ground will keep it chilled.
At the moment Im thinking of doing an epoxy, then kiwi tiling. But I dont know if the budget will allow. Otherwise I may have to go the epoxy then industrial tile route.
A couple things Id like to add my two cents on.
First, the black/white tile example above is looking like a great inexpensive alternative. I will have to keep that in mind as Im doing my own garage as I speak.
One advantage of the plastic tiles you lay over the concrete floor is that is is a HUGE advantage during the winter when the concrete is ice cold. The tiles do not conduct the heat and therefore you can sit on the tiles, lay down on them, etc etc, without getting cold. No matter what you do, if you do not elevate yourself above the actual concrete like the plastic tiles do, you will freeze your buns off in the winter when on your hands and knees. Buddy of mine has the elevated plastic tiles and when its -5 degrees out you can be inside working on the car, waxing it, etc etc and not freeze the heck out of yourself. Also, they are a decent cushion compared to just going the epoxy or industrial floor tile route. Not soft mind you, but you can sit on them and not feel like your butt it going to fall off.
Second, on the racedeck tiles. They are about $4 a square foot. Kiwi tiles are pretty much the same thing at under $3 a square foot. The cheapest Ive been able to find them.
If you live in a warm weather climate, the industrial tiles look like a cheap great way. Living in Ohio, I just dont know if I can get away with it. Even with a heater in the garage, the concrete will not rise in temperature much as the driveway outside and ground will keep it chilled.
At the moment Im thinking of doing an epoxy, then kiwi tiling. But I dont know if the budget will allow. Otherwise I may have to go the epoxy then industrial tile route.
