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Old 09-29-2020, 08:47 PM
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StevenGilroy
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Default Gas Smell

My 96 993 has a fairly strong gas smell after being driven and parked. I followed followed many Rennlist threads, none have found the source. First did the Frunk: hoses and clamps, filler pipe and vent, Cap, expansion tank and the smell is not in the front end. The smell is strongest in the rear of the car. The engine compartment was next: checked the fuel filter for leaks, clean and tight. Pulled the aux. blower and air box, checked the fuel injectors, all dry and clean, so is the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel rail is clean. Can not find anywhere there is gas residue or dampness. Where next? Fuel pump? or a vent hose that I missed?
Thanks in advance, Steve
Old 09-29-2020, 08:55 PM
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rk-d
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Originally Posted by StevenGilroy
My 96 993 has a fairly strong gas smell after being driven and parked. I followed followed many Rennlist threads, none have found the source. First did the Frunk: hoses and clamps, filler pipe and vent, Cap, expansion tank and the smell is not in the front end. The smell is strongest in the rear of the car. The engine compartment was next: checked the fuel filter for leaks, clean and tight. Pulled the aux. blower and air box, checked the fuel injectors, all dry and clean, so is the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel rail is clean. Can not find anywhere there is gas residue or dampness. Where next? Fuel pump? or a vent hose that I missed?
Thanks in advance, Steve
I had this problem last year. I tightened the front hose clamps, bought a new cap, installed a new filler pipe. Nothing worked. If the car sat for a few days, the gas smell was pretty bad. When I had my engine out last year, I had the fuel lines inspected -- there was a small leak detected. Rubber lines were replaced and the problem was solved once and for all. Not a cheap fix.
Old 09-29-2020, 09:20 PM
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StevenGilroy
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Thanks for the replyI dont want to pull the engine, where were the rubber lines? I will have to study the parts book more to see if I can figure out where they might be.
Old 09-29-2020, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenGilroy
Thanks for the replyI dont want to pull the engine, where were the rubber lines? I will have to study the parts book more to see if I can figure out where they might be.
To be honest, I don't know for a fact that you need to pull the engine. It just happened to be out for other things when we addressed the issue. Not all the lines were necessarily needing replacement - we just figured it was wise to go ahead and do it while the engine was out.

Maybe this helps - this was the parts list that replaced.



Old 09-29-2020, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by rk-d
To be honest, I don't know for a fact that you need to pull the engine. It just happened to be out for other things when we addressed the issue. Not all the lines were necessarily needing replacement - we just figured it was wise to go ahead and do it while the engine was out.

Maybe this helps - this was the parts list that replaced.


I’ve heard our P-cars don’t play nice with the ethanol in modern gasoline. Is this a symptom of that bad relationship or something else like age?
Old 09-29-2020, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by notabot
I’ve heard our P-cars don’t play nice with the ethanol in modern gasoline. Is this a symptom of that bad relationship or something else like age?
Maybe both. My car was a garage queen for its two prior owners.
Old 09-30-2020, 05:55 AM
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nk993
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Did you check the charcoal cannister? This might be useful: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=141044&highlight=
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Old 09-30-2020, 09:21 AM
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pp000830
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Air things out as best you can and then one can consider using a piece of fish tank air hose in combination with your nose as a sniffer to localize the source of the odor.
Just a thought,
Andy
Old 09-30-2020, 11:21 AM
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I think you could replace the fuel lines with engine in car. You’d have to remove intake, throttle & everything on top as the lines run on top of shroud. Might be a few “ while you’re in there” things discovered and a good opportunity for clean up, spark plug wires, vacuum lines etc
Old 09-30-2020, 11:44 AM
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All great ideas, I will check the charcoal canister as it's relatively easy. Going to remove the fuel pump cover completely too. After getting Notabot's list of lines I looked at the parts book, and noted that there are 8 lines with flex portions, started with the easy ones last night. I checked the flex portions of the incoming line to the filter, nothing, Also the Flex line between the fuel rails, also dry.
Another thing, yesterday before checking the fuel injectors and fuel rails I pulled the fuel pump relay in an attempt to depressurize the fuel system, and the car wouldn't start, so assumed there was no pressure on the system, leaked down? The car had been sitting for two days prior, and the garage has been in the 80s, (100 outside) so some evaporation is possible. Plugged the fuse back in and the car started up after a few seconds, moved it to isolation in the shop, as the 356 had been parked next to it and the carbs are always emitting gas fumes on hot days. They have been separated now, and it's in the 50's no gas smell at all now. I tried my combustable gas tester yesterday and it just went crazy anywhere close to the engine, but then it was still hot from being driven. Now that everything cool, I can search more.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Old 10-01-2020, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by notabot
I’ve heard our P-cars don’t play nice with the ethanol in modern gasoline. Is this a symptom of that bad relationship or something else like age?
Many older and modern cars don't play nice with ethanol. Some modern cars have a wider range of mixture adjustment to compensate for it. From a gumming-up-the-works perspective or attacking hoses, I think the issue has more to do with how often the car is driven and so how fresh the fuel is. Also lets face it the fuel hoses in our cars are 26+ years old so age has something to do with leaks I suspect. Sitting fuel is hygroscopic. Some use fuel stabilizer for cars that sit, some seek out fuel that doesn't contain alcohol. Something that is widely available outside of urban areas and CA of course.

https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=VA

Hope the above helps.
Andy
Old 10-01-2020, 11:25 AM
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I will say, I was looking at fire extinguishers last year when this happened. It's a little scary having a fuel line leak. Since the replacement, the smell is gone but I really need to get one anyway.
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Old 10-01-2020, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by pp000830
Many older and modern cars don't play nice with ethanol. Some modern cars have a wider range of mixture adjustment to compensate for it. From a gumming-up-the-works perspective or attacking hoses, I think the issue has more to do with how often the car is driven and so how fresh the fuel is. Also lets face it the fuel hoses in our cars are 26+ years old so age has something to do with leaks I suspect. Sitting fuel is hygroscopic. Some use fuel stabilizer for cars that sit, some seek out fuel that doesn't contain alcohol. Something that is widely available outside of urban areas and CA of course.

https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=VA

Hope the above helps.
Andy
We have a chain of gas stations called Buc-ee’s that offer ethanol-free gas. They’re just a little too far away, though.
Old 10-01-2020, 08:20 PM
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These cars are starting to get to an age where the soft rubber parts will need to be replaced to insure safety. Personally if I were smelling fuel and it was coming from anywhere near the engine I would not drive the car and I would check and or replace all of the lines. I know it sounds overly cautious but at 20 years rubber parts may have cycled enough to fatigue and the last thing you want is catastrophic failure when driving.
Old 10-01-2020, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Marine Blue
These cars are starting to get to an age where the soft rubber parts will need to be replaced to insure safety. Personally if I were smelling fuel and it was coming from anywhere near the engine I would not drive the car and I would check and or replace all of the lines. I know it sounds overly cautious but at 20 years rubber parts may have cycled enough to fatigue and the last thing you want is catastrophic failure when driving.
Agree - personally I think this is one of those "while you're in there" things that should be added to the list for any engine out job.


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