Possibly getting a new clutch and DMF to hopefully correct an ongoing shifting issue. What else should I order/replace/inspect while the trans is out? Engine is staying in and all of the plug wires/maint. items are already done.

 

not much access if engine in.

• Maybe you can find a few nooks / crannies to clean?
• Check clutch fork for cracks
• Replace the clutch fork rod's bearing and seal, ~ $5.
• Make sure to lube fork to throwout bearing and slave cylinder rod to shift fork contact points (3 places).
• Replace TO bearing?
• Clean / lube shift linkage
• Be happy you are not R&Ring a C4 transmission

cough cough.

 

Hi Cactus,

• The plastic parts in the front shift linkage. Things like the socket at the base of the shift rod and the guide bushings under the car that the linkage slides through. After 25 years they may be brittle and have a little play. They degrade very slowly over time so one may not notice the loss in precision of shifting until they are replaced all just a few dollars in parts. Also,
• the linkage in the back to the transmissions internal shift rod called a bearing body 993 424 028 00 is sold as a complete OE part and is staggeringly expensive where the only part of it, the rubber linkage, can be serviced by adding some washers to it to stiffen it up described in a how-to here on Rennlist. Also, there are aftermarket parts that replace the entire bearing body but at a higher cost.
• I also wonder if this part will work to replace the bearing body rubber linkage as it is designed for an earlier 911 that had a g50 transmission similar to the one in our car.JWest Engineering Improved Shift Coupler for G50 Shift Linkage I shot J West Engineering a note and asked them, Let's see what they come back with.

Here is a posting that shows many of the parts involved and describes the bearing body rubber linkage fix.
Jackals Racetrack - 993 shift upgrade.
Andy

 

Clutch slave cylinder and attached rubber hydraulic line? A minimal expense and much easier to change with the transmission out.

 

Rear main seal



Andreas

 

Since you removed the transmission easy time to check if any of the seals failed like the axle/hub seals, shift rod seal (the one the shifter attaches to), and the input seal (inside the bell housing that attaches to the clutch)

They are all easy to replace...

 

I would check the power steering belt. Should be easier to work on, though still a bear, with the tranny out.

 

This was all addressed when I installed a short shift kit and Golden Rod.

 

Replaced both 2.3 years ago but will get a new slave at least this time.

 

So here is what I have so far:
Clutch
DMF
TO bearing
Clutch fork rod bearing and seal
Slave cylinder and rubber supply line
rear main seal

 

Re-gear

 

Hi Cactus,
FYI on my car the master and slave clutch cylinders both started leaking at the same time at about 100K miles. If you replace the slave I would replace the master and its little lever that is prone to failure. both ends of the hydraulic clutch function have the same number of actuations on them.
Andy

 

I replaced with an MPL slave cylinder. It may have been the single biggest "improvement" I made this winter.

https://type911shop.co.uk/epages/de8...7&Locale=en_GB

I've driven several 993 and they all required a clutch pedal force that was a bit more than I'd like, especially in stop/go traffic.
Fitted the MPL, the pedal is now the same or easier than the focus st we have. This is a good thing in my book.

 

Don't think its going to happen.

 

I don't have any issue with pedal pressure but this is an interesting observation.