PSS-9 Problem
Well, I might be the first one or the only one so far that have problem/defect.
After 2 days of track action I was trying to adjust my PSS-9 setting back to 9 from 1. The left rear rotating **** felt a bit loose and can be turned freely from both directions, in another word it doesn't stop at 1 or 9. Never the less I tried to set it on 9 and drove home...I later found out that it is stuck in the firmest setting (1).I tried to set it to different settings and felt no change/softer at all.
I bought/installed around February this year and been to track 3 times. I had only made adjustments no more than 5 times since installation. I had contacted Gert and was told that a replacement will be on the way ASAP.
I hope this was a defective shock and an isolated case, but would like to know if others had the same problem...
A side note to the weekend, my "check engine" light came on mid day Saturday as well...
After 2 days of track action I was trying to adjust my PSS-9 setting back to 9 from 1. The left rear rotating **** felt a bit loose and can be turned freely from both directions, in another word it doesn't stop at 1 or 9. Never the less I tried to set it on 9 and drove home...I later found out that it is stuck in the firmest setting (1).I tried to set it to different settings and felt no change/softer at all.
I bought/installed around February this year and been to track 3 times. I had only made adjustments no more than 5 times since installation. I had contacted Gert and was told that a replacement will be on the way ASAP.
I hope this was a defective shock and an isolated case, but would like to know if others had the same problem...
A side note to the weekend, my "check engine" light came on mid day Saturday as well...
Kevin,
I think your problem is driving the wheels off the car (pss9) and bouncing off the rev-limiter too much(misfire code). Just slow down so I'll be able to catch you someday. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Seriously - did you try adjusting the shock with the suspension completely unloaded? Maybe that will make a difference. I think it is defective and I would presume you can get a warranty replacement since it's been under a year. But if you can figure out how to adjust it short term maybe you can live with it until you HAVE to get the car aligned again anyway.
Great time at MSR (minus the gnat explosion and the heat) !
Ben
I think your problem is driving the wheels off the car (pss9) and bouncing off the rev-limiter too much(misfire code). Just slow down so I'll be able to catch you someday. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Seriously - did you try adjusting the shock with the suspension completely unloaded? Maybe that will make a difference. I think it is defective and I would presume you can get a warranty replacement since it's been under a year. But if you can figure out how to adjust it short term maybe you can live with it until you HAVE to get the car aligned again anyway.
Great time at MSR (minus the gnat explosion and the heat) !
Ben
Kevin, now that you mention it, I may have at least one shock exhibiting the same characteristics. IIRC, it was my right rear shock.
I will check it tonight and report my findings. Hopefully, it was all in my head. <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
I will check it tonight and report my findings. Hopefully, it was all in my head. <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
Ben,
I did tried to adjust it without load AND with load, but the **** just turned freely on either directions. You can still feel the clicks but it doesn't stop at either position 1 or 9.
I do think the thing is defective/broke. Kind of disapointed though...
The weekend was great fun, and the funniest thing to me is that since Glen has the fastest car out there but with a For Sale sign in the back, nobody can read the phone number on it...
He should be the one who needed to slow down...
I did tried to adjust it without load AND with load, but the **** just turned freely on either directions. You can still feel the clicks but it doesn't stop at either position 1 or 9.
I do think the thing is defective/broke. Kind of disapointed though...
The weekend was great fun, and the funniest thing to me is that since Glen has the fastest car out there but with a For Sale sign in the back, nobody can read the phone number on it...
He should be the one who needed to slow down...
Kevin, I finally took a look at my setup. I did notice that the rear compression / rebound control ***** in the rear do NOT stop at 1 or 9 as the fronts do. My ***** are not loose, so that could indicate a problem with your shock.
Gert should be able to get you the replacement in no time flat.
Good luck.
Gert should be able to get you the replacement in no time flat.
Good luck.
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I believe there is a set screw that secures the **** on the shaft. Check to make sure it's not loose and the **** isn't rotating on the shaft.
My rears are a lot harder to turn than the fronts. If yours are the same the **** may have not been tight enough to turn the shaft and the **** could just be spinning without moving the adjuster.
If this is it, tighten it up and rotate it all the way in one direction then loosen it and adjust the **** so it's reading either 1 or 9 depending which way you turned it.
My $0.02. Hope this helps.
My rears are a lot harder to turn than the fronts. If yours are the same the **** may have not been tight enough to turn the shaft and the **** could just be spinning without moving the adjuster.
If this is it, tighten it up and rotate it all the way in one direction then loosen it and adjust the **** so it's reading either 1 or 9 depending which way you turned it.
My $0.02. Hope this helps.
Matt, Ben, and Buck,
Thank you for your inputs...my adjuesting **** rotates pass position 9 to go to 1 clockwise and rotates pass 1 to 9 counterclock direction...the bumps that you felt at each number settings are still there but it doesn't soften down since the last time I dialed up to 1...the shaft IS connected to the ****( and since I can still feel the bumps at each number settings )
There is a piece of plastic plug directly behind the rotating ****, I wonder what does the plug plug off? Maybe there is an adjuestment or something that is behind the plug...or maybe that is a fill hole for the gas or fluid...
Gert is going to send me a replacement hopfully sometime this week, so the relief IS on the way...
Thanks to all for help...
Thank you for your inputs...my adjuesting **** rotates pass position 9 to go to 1 clockwise and rotates pass 1 to 9 counterclock direction...the bumps that you felt at each number settings are still there but it doesn't soften down since the last time I dialed up to 1...the shaft IS connected to the ****( and since I can still feel the bumps at each number settings )
There is a piece of plastic plug directly behind the rotating ****, I wonder what does the plug plug off? Maybe there is an adjuestment or something that is behind the plug...or maybe that is a fill hole for the gas or fluid...
Gert is going to send me a replacement hopfully sometime this week, so the relief IS on the way...
Thanks to all for help...
Guys,
I'm promting this post back up since I found out I have the same problem.
On my right rear shock, the **** just turns freely and the shaft is connected to the ****.
My shocks are only couple of moths old so replacing (under warranty) is not a problem but I was wondering do I need re-alignment or not) (since the shocks bot are the same and the one being replaced, basically brand new) or is it enough when you just measure the old shock and set the new one one same height?
Also,
Did anyone know what was this problem & how common it is?
Should the adjustment to be done unloaded (car jacked up) or does it make any difference?
Thanks!
I'm promting this post back up since I found out I have the same problem.
On my right rear shock, the **** just turns freely and the shaft is connected to the ****.
My shocks are only couple of moths old so replacing (under warranty) is not a problem but I was wondering do I need re-alignment or not) (since the shocks bot are the same and the one being replaced, basically brand new) or is it enough when you just measure the old shock and set the new one one same height?
Also,
Did anyone know what was this problem & how common it is?
Should the adjustment to be done unloaded (car jacked up) or does it make any difference?
Thanks!
Petu,
In order to replace the rear shocks you will have to remove the lower kinematic control arm. A lot of shops just make a marking on the concentric bolt in reference to the lower sub frame and try to put it back as close as possible. (Visually) The only way to be sure is to measure it with the 993 specific kinematic bubble gauge again. (Which I found only Champions Porsche have this tool in the entire South Florida)
As for the ride height, if they count the number of the threads they should be able to set the ride height as close as possible to the original.
In order to replace the rear shocks you will have to remove the lower kinematic control arm. A lot of shops just make a marking on the concentric bolt in reference to the lower sub frame and try to put it back as close as possible. (Visually) The only way to be sure is to measure it with the 993 specific kinematic bubble gauge again. (Which I found only Champions Porsche have this tool in the entire South Florida)
As for the ride height, if they count the number of the threads they should be able to set the ride height as close as possible to the original.
FF,
You will should get a re-alignment. The best option is to also get a new corner balance because the measurement is not going to be completely completely accurate. However I am not going this route when I take my fronts off to replace the sway bars.
That said I have always wondered whether a corner balance is completely necessary on a mostly street driven car. I know it is the proper thing to do, but the end result of my corner balance was not much different than the starting point and is not 50/50 across the axle. Especially considering the changes in the fuel load and possible weight from the driver and passengers.
You will should get a re-alignment. The best option is to also get a new corner balance because the measurement is not going to be completely completely accurate. However I am not going this route when I take my fronts off to replace the sway bars.
That said I have always wondered whether a corner balance is completely necessary on a mostly street driven car. I know it is the proper thing to do, but the end result of my corner balance was not much different than the starting point and is not 50/50 across the axle. Especially considering the changes in the fuel load and possible weight from the driver and passengers.
I just recently had PSS9's installed and I have a couple of questions. 1. My car feels bouncy in the front end unless I get on it a little and then it smooths out. #2. Is a dumb question I know, but I have not adjusted them myself.How do you access the setting **** front and back? Do I need to remove the front and rear wheels to adjust them and where is the **** at? TIA
GTR,
The adjustment for the front is on the bottom of the shock and is cover by a plastic cover that can be a PITA to remove. I suggest needle nose pliers for this, as three is a slight raised area in the center of the cover. Pull it off and then adjust away. It is possible to adjust with wheels on. Just turn the wheels to an extreme for the most access. A mirror can be help full in seeing the dial.
The rears. Well that depends on how they were installed, which direction the dial is facing and your flexibility and ability to crawl under the car. The easy answer is take off the wheel and adjust. There is no cover on this dial.
The adjustment for the front is on the bottom of the shock and is cover by a plastic cover that can be a PITA to remove. I suggest needle nose pliers for this, as three is a slight raised area in the center of the cover. Pull it off and then adjust away. It is possible to adjust with wheels on. Just turn the wheels to an extreme for the most access. A mirror can be help full in seeing the dial.
The rears. Well that depends on how they were installed, which direction the dial is facing and your flexibility and ability to crawl under the car. The easy answer is take off the wheel and adjust. There is no cover on this dial.
Thank you very much guys!
What would a poor Porsche owner do without the friends like this?
GTR,
If your rear shocks are installed so the the dials are facing inwards the car, you should be able to install them without taking off the wheels or jacking the car up.
I did it last weekend at track event by lying on my back and did it so that I turned the **** all the way to the other end and then counted the 'clicks' (that's how I found out that the other know was bad).
I was able to see the know also though.
What would a poor Porsche owner do without the friends like this?
GTR,
If your rear shocks are installed so the the dials are facing inwards the car, you should be able to install them without taking off the wheels or jacking the car up.
I did it last weekend at track event by lying on my back and did it so that I turned the **** all the way to the other end and then counted the 'clicks' (that's how I found out that the other know was bad).
I was able to see the know also though.


