Damaged oil lifters - Tappets
#16
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Hello,
Thank you for your valuable feedback.
Just to make sure I understand you correctly, every lifter should have one go at inserting it. Otherwise re-removal damages the new seals.
Thank you
MB
Thank you for your valuable feedback.
Just to make sure I understand you correctly, every lifter should have one go at inserting it. Otherwise re-removal damages the new seals.
Thank you
MB
#17
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Hello Churchill,
That’s right. I had a thread about the pressure relief valve long time ago.
The vehicle has drove smoothly for a while after the valve issue. Plus, I get the CEL when the car is usually warm. Not at start up.
Thanks
MB
That’s right. I had a thread about the pressure relief valve long time ago.
The vehicle has drove smoothly for a while after the valve issue. Plus, I get the CEL when the car is usually warm. Not at start up.
Thanks
MB
#18
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Hello,
You do have a point. as my stock mufflers don't have the heat shields on them.
i never purchased the shields when removing the fabspeed muffler and installing the originals.
thanks
MB
You do have a point. as my stock mufflers don't have the heat shields on them.
i never purchased the shields when removing the fabspeed muffler and installing the originals.
thanks
MB
#19
Race Car
Originally Posted by mutasemb
Hello,
Thank you for your valuable feedback.
Just to make sure I understand you correctly, every lifter should have one go at inserting it. Otherwise re-removal damages the new seals.
Thank you
MB
Thank you for your valuable feedback.
Just to make sure I understand you correctly, every lifter should have one go at inserting it. Otherwise re-removal damages the new seals.
Thank you
MB
Here's a pic of the shop manual.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by 95_993; 07-12-2020 at 11:36 AM.
#20
Intermediate
Thread Starter
WOW. amazing info. thanks for sharing.
- One more question. Sometime when the car is warm, and I start it, I hear a quick rattle noise (only for a split second).
I am being told it is the chain Tensioner. which I completely doubt.
thanks
MB
- One more question. Sometime when the car is warm, and I start it, I hear a quick rattle noise (only for a split second).
I am being told it is the chain Tensioner. which I completely doubt.
thanks
MB
#21
Race Car
Originally Posted by mutasemb
WOW. amazing info. thanks for sharing.
- One more question. Sometime when the car is warm, and I start it, I hear a quick rattle noise (only for a split second).
I am being told it is the chain Tensioner. which I completely doubt.
thanks
MB
- One more question. Sometime when the car is warm, and I start it, I hear a quick rattle noise (only for a split second).
I am being told it is the chain Tensioner. which I completely doubt.
thanks
MB
It could actually be the chain tensioners until they pump up with oil. There is not a lot of other things that could rattle or have enough clearance to rattle. I would go with the 15w-50 or 20w-50. They are not that difficult to change.
#22
Instructor
#24
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Good news, I changed the oil grade from 10W40 to 20W50, and the car purrs like a cat now :-)
Thanks everyone for your advise. I love this platform.
Thanks everyone for your advise. I love this platform.
The following users liked this post:
sacman (09-29-2020)
#25
Race Car
Originally Posted by mutasemb
Good news, I changed the oil grade from 10W40 to 20W50, and the car purrs like a cat now :-)
Thanks everyone for your advise. I love this platform.
Thanks everyone for your advise. I love this platform.
#26
Instructor
Correct. Pulling the lifter out can put small tears in the seal and the thin wall of the lifter cartridge can be easily deformed with pliers when removing. In the pic below, you can see the bigger radius on one end of the seal to ease inserting it, but not on the other end..
Here's a pic of the shop manual.
Hope this helps.
Here's a pic of the shop manual.
Hope this helps.
Since my engine is out and won't be restarted before few months, is it necessary?
On the tappet i removed, i can pull apart and re-insert the inner tube (part below red arrow in above picture). It does not budge on the new one (INA). I presume this is normal and oil pressure will do the adjustment as intended?
Thanks
#27
Race Car
Originally Posted by 993c4ie
I am in the process of changing the tappets. I read a recommendation somewhere to let them soak in oil for a day before install.
Since my engine is out and won't be restarted before few months, is it necessary?
On the tappet i removed, i can pull apart and re-insert the inner tube (part below red arrow in above picture). It does not budge on the new one (INA). I presume this is normal and oil pressure will do the adjustment as intended?
Thanks
Since my engine is out and won't be restarted before few months, is it necessary?
On the tappet i removed, i can pull apart and re-insert the inner tube (part below red arrow in above picture). It does not budge on the new one (INA). I presume this is normal and oil pressure will do the adjustment as intended?
Thanks
#28
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I figured that the soaking was like chicken soup - easy and it can't hurt.
#29
Instructor
#30
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It definitely won't hurt but the rockers and shafts don't really need anything. The tappets do their job by being filled with oil under pressure, with just enough give to maintain clearances. They're empty as supplied and will fill up as 95_993 points out, but soaking gives them a pre-fill.
It's possible that one or more will drain down while that engine sits for a few months, so even if you pre-fill the tappets you'll want to follow 95_993s advice to crank without the DME relay in place until oil pressure builds up.
It's possible that one or more will drain down while that engine sits for a few months, so even if you pre-fill the tappets you'll want to follow 95_993s advice to crank without the DME relay in place until oil pressure builds up.