Been having an issue with shifting for a couple years now and wanted one last thread before I take it in. When I push in the clutch the gear doesn't release right away. Bleeding the clutch slave improves it for a while and then it comes back. When the issue started I replaced the clutch slave and supply line which made the issue go away but then slowly came back. Been bleeding the clutch slave a couple times per year so I can drive it.

Some people say its the dried up grease on input shaft of the trans but why would a bleed of the clutch improve it? Time to take it to a shop but not sure where to take it.

 

Old/dried grease and/or rust on the input shaft splines certainly feels like the right answer. Why it changes after a clutch bleed doesn’t make a lot of sense.
Is it always noticeable, or more so in cooler weather? Does it improve after an hour of caning it?



Andreas

 

Clutch hydraulics or maybe a failed clutch lever in the foot peddle cluster. Just get things inspected as the cause will be readily visible.
Also if the shift linkage has problems or the engine / transmission mounts don't hold things in the correct position there could be some binding unrelated to the clutch hydraulics,
If your clutch has over 60K miles on it it may be on it's last legs and is beginning to behave strangely.
Just some guesses from a shade tree mechanic.
Andy

 

If you improve it thro bleeding, could it be very small leak on hydraulic that is letting air in? At some point there is just not enough clutch slave stroke to fully disengage clutch?
Do you remember if you modified anything 2 to 2.5 years ago? I.e. added remote bleed for clutch?

 

Cactus,

The theory of rust on the spines of the input shaft is a good one. I recently pulled my trans at 70k miles, no winters, etc to discover rust on the spines of the clutch and input shaft. It’s possible it’s causing the clutch disk to hang and not slide requiring a lot of pressure to move it.

 

I'm throwing some ideas out, not dismissing what others may have suggested. But: if there was resistance to clutch movement i.e. dirt, I would think a 100% fit hydraulic circuit would power through the clutch disengagement, dirt and all (clutch foot on floor) and then - if the resistance was enough, something would break.
Dirt could mean releasing the pedal slows the clutch engagement, but again, I think only if that dirt is enough to affect some serious clutch pressure plate spring power.

So my brain comes back to air in circuit and slave not stroking enough.
Tricky to imagine exaclty what symptoms you having and the relationship to the timing of the pedal movement, I may have the stinky end of the stick.

 

I agree a good theory, as long as the OP has ruled out all the less invasive, less expensive potential causes first.
Andy

 

 

Typing on an old tapped out iPad so forgive the odd spacing....

 

There can be several reasons for clutch drag. As already said;- hydraulics, splines,release fork bearings also dry pilot bearing, distorted clutch plate, material pickup on flywheel. If the slave and flexy are ok what about the master cylinder.? Perhaps you'll just have to bite the bullit and drop the gearbox.

 

If air is working its way into the clutch hydraulics, it would need to happen between the brake fluid reservoir and the clutch master cylinder, correct?
Everything beyond the master cylinder is under pressure (during use) and would highlight any loose connections with fluid loss.



Andreas

 

Started after the cap upgrade and removing vent tube...coincidence? Confirmed that the reservoir cap is actually venting today.

 

Any other takers before I enter the abyss of throwing money and parts at it?

 

Cactus,

Check out this trouble shooting guide from LuK for clutch problems. May be helpful in narrowing things down.

http://www.partinfo.co.uk/files/LUK%...t%20Finder.pdf

 

Is it a big job to go back to the old vent setup? If you still have the parts it's a way to cross an easy one off.