RMS replacement
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 339
From: Santa Cruz, CA
RMS replacement
I’m in the process of a clutch replacement and while I’m in there doing the RMS. The old one was really difficult to get out using the drywall screw method.
when I put the new one I oiled it up and it pressed in by hand, I just used my thumb to get it flush.
it was so easy I got to thinking maybe I should have put it in dry.
is this the correct procedure or should I remove this and put another in correctly?
when I put the new one I oiled it up and it pressed in by hand, I just used my thumb to get it flush.
it was so easy I got to thinking maybe I should have put it in dry.
is this the correct procedure or should I remove this and put another in correctly?
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Canada & the Alps
I had to tap it in on my friend's car and you have to start it very slowly so the seal does not rock. Very light taps to get it started. I usually use the old seal backwards to tap it in.
There is no way I could have installed it with finger pressure. Is it an original seal or aftermarket?
There is no way I could have installed it with finger pressure. Is it an original seal or aftermarket?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 339
From: Santa Cruz, CA
It’s an Elring seal which others have used. I got two just in case I messed up so will pull this one out and install the other dry.
ive got a 4” PVC coupling piece that seems the perfect size to tap it in.
thanks for confirming my fears. I’d hate to put it all back together only to start her up and see a pool of oil on the floor.
ive got a 4” PVC coupling piece that seems the perfect size to tap it in.
thanks for confirming my fears. I’d hate to put it all back together only to start her up and see a pool of oil on the floor.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 102
older 911's had the seal installed flush, on our cars the shop manual says 2mm indent.
the porsche tool or sir tool equivalent p234 is amazing to use if you can find one nearby to borrow.
pvc works of course, just not as cool to use and difficult to install the seal evenly.
the porsche tool or sir tool equivalent p234 is amazing to use if you can find one nearby to borrow.
pvc works of course, just not as cool to use and difficult to install the seal evenly.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 339
From: Santa Cruz, CA
The seal I took out was installed flush so maybe that indicates a previous replacement. I don’t have any records of such work so just a guess at this point. I’ve read that Steve W. installs his flush so I’m shooting for 0 - 2mm depth.
so I’ll keep the case and outside flange of the seal dry for the install. Should I put a wipe of oil on the crankshaft and inside seal? Seems like this interface is in motion and should be lubricated.
getting into minutia here but that’s what we do right?
so I’ll keep the case and outside flange of the seal dry for the install. Should I put a wipe of oil on the crankshaft and inside seal? Seems like this interface is in motion and should be lubricated.
getting into minutia here but that’s what we do right?
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 102
shop manual suggests coating running surface with oil.
no explanation about why the seal must be recessed 2mm below the case flange.
but if you install it flush you don't need the factory tool to make sure the seal is installed evenly.
no explanation about why the seal must be recessed 2mm below the case flange.
but if you install it flush you don't need the factory tool to make sure the seal is installed evenly.
