1997 993 Ignition Distributor - New or Rebuilt?
#16
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Thanks for the reply. Yes, I know Steve well. We've had lots of conversations on Porsches and other topics. I will say though, I prefer to do my own work whenever I can. I enjoy it and then I can pass that knowledge on to others that are interested.
Again, thanks.
Again, thanks.
#17
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Send it to Steve. Quick turn and well priced. He did a great job on my unit that needed some TLC. Highly recommended.
#18
Rennlist Member
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Looks like the mobile app has a bug to redirect the Dropbox link I shared earlier. Go to the web site version it "should" download as I shared it as a Dropbox link.
Thanks!
#19
Three Wheelin'
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Just wanted to share my experiences with distributors. I'm on my third.
The first one failed due to the hall sensor. For those that don't know, this is a little electronic gizmo in the distributor that detects the location of the rotor. The DME needs this info to determine which cylinder is misbehaving when it hears a knock. No hall sensor = CEL = failed smog check.
I didn't have confidence in finding a replacement for just this part, so found a used one with working hall sensor (> $700) then paid to have it rebuilt (another > $700 going from memory). It took over a month for me to find the used distributor and have it rebuilt. No fun.
Fast forward to last year and I got the CEL again for another failed hall sensor. This time I took the easy route. I was able to get a rebuilt unit for ~$750 (through a Worldpac wholesale connection) same day. I dropped it in and problem solved. Half the price and nearly no downtime.
No idea how good the quality of the Bosch rebuild is, but will report back if this one fails.
The first one failed due to the hall sensor. For those that don't know, this is a little electronic gizmo in the distributor that detects the location of the rotor. The DME needs this info to determine which cylinder is misbehaving when it hears a knock. No hall sensor = CEL = failed smog check.
I didn't have confidence in finding a replacement for just this part, so found a used one with working hall sensor (> $700) then paid to have it rebuilt (another > $700 going from memory). It took over a month for me to find the used distributor and have it rebuilt. No fun.
Fast forward to last year and I got the CEL again for another failed hall sensor. This time I took the easy route. I was able to get a rebuilt unit for ~$750 (through a Worldpac wholesale connection) same day. I dropped it in and problem solved. Half the price and nearly no downtime.
No idea how good the quality of the Bosch rebuild is, but will report back if this one fails.
The following 2 users liked this post by mpruden:
M. Schneider (11-07-2023),
sacman (11-02-2023)
#20
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Just wanted to report that i had Mark Cohen refurbish 2 993 distributors. Sent out last Wednesday via Priority Mail and got them back today ... 1 week later!
Very happy with the speed, service, and quality of repair... and i just mailed his check to him this monday..! He also said he been doing this service for 20+
years. Just glad i sent them in before a mishap... belts were Original and still good..one you can see was dry and cracking! Engine is a 1995 with the vent tubes,
both under 100,000 miles ......but 25 years later..!
Good Luck to All..
Very happy with the speed, service, and quality of repair... and i just mailed his check to him this monday..! He also said he been doing this service for 20+
years. Just glad i sent them in before a mishap... belts were Original and still good..one you can see was dry and cracking! Engine is a 1995 with the vent tubes,
both under 100,000 miles ......but 25 years later..!
Good Luck to All..
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M. Schneider (07-07-2021)
#21
Rennlist Member
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Some time ago and maybe even today, some private and commercial businesses were rebuilding these dual-distributors by just replacing the belt for about $175, even if the bearings felt good. Sorry, but a full rebuild includes all bearings. These units are over 20 years old. And when you do get it rebuilt, how do you know they are really replacing the bearings instead of injecting them with some lube as some have done. Some rebuilders turn the shaft down to 12 mm so they can use a standard and cheaper 7201 bearing; not the way I would do it.
If you have the skill (there are some tricks), you can rebuild it yourself for about US$245 plus shipping for the original bearings, and then about $25 for the belt, drive pin and cap. About $270. If you totally strip the unit, totally clean all bits, it is time consuming but you know the job is done right.
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M. Schneider (07-07-2021)
#22
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M. Schneider (11-07-2023)
#23
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Alex, thanks for the tip. As a motor guy I should’ve thought of that myself. Hope you are well my friend.
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IXLR8 (02-15-2020)
#24
Rennlist Member
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BTW, every one of these that I rebuilt, this bearing appeared fine, but for what it costs, I replaced them.
A few pics of the differences...
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/320x285/nx_series_e173b5784394a1e8490d56cb8550fc18548ba776.jpg)
The INA NX12-XL with the oiling holes.
![](https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/320x285/nx_z_series_54954ed9e452ab55a2380a6830c7c98f5a5f3168.jpg)
The INA NX12-Z-XL without the oiling holes.
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1024x683/ina_nx_12_xl_2_xl_e204d23912f202e8330bf8a37d3deb2eb1c20c9c.jpg)
Actual view of the INA NX12-XL with the correct oiling holes.
As for the 7201 angular contact bearing, unless things have changed in the North American market, I doubt you can get a non-standard 7201 such as the correct 7201-BE-2RS-AH01 at a local bearing shop.
I believe the AH01 designates that it was made for Bosch.
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JasonAndreas (05-11-2021)
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diddi (07-05-2021)