Anyone heard of an IDLE Micro Switch?
05-01-2002, 09:37 PM
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Winston-Salem, North Carolina
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Anyone heard of an IDLE Micro Switch?
In my continuing saga of trying to eliminate the dreaded stalling on a 95 993 with lightweight flywheel, I came across the following from the folks at Performance Products:
"There is a trick that can be done on the 964 cars with this problem. They have an idle micro switch that you can slide a piece of 1/4"
rubber hose over so it dampens the contact. Its crude but works, im not sure
though if the 993 switch is the same".
Anyone have any insight if the 993 has anything similar? Would love to fix it with a chip replacement, but after waiting for four months for Rennsport systems to resolve, I'm looking at any option!
"There is a trick that can be done on the 964 cars with this problem. They have an idle micro switch that you can slide a piece of 1/4"
rubber hose over so it dampens the contact. Its crude but works, im not sure
though if the 993 switch is the same".
Anyone have any insight if the 993 has anything similar? Would love to fix it with a chip replacement, but after waiting for four months for Rennsport systems to resolve, I'm looking at any option!
05-01-2002, 11:08 PM
#2
King of Cool
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I don't know about that, but there's a way to adjust idle speed, I don't know how to make a short cut to that thread but thanks to Kevin, here's how it goes:
O.K here's the Idle Stabilizer adjustment:
Remove the idle stabilizer valve.
( Clean it as well )
Remove the epoxy covering the three Allen head screws on the plastic electronic connector side.
Make a scribe marking on the aluminum stablilzer
body to the plastic connector side to mark the
original factory position. Loosen, but do not remove, the three Allen screws. Grip the aluminum body and grab the plastic electrical connector and turn the internal mechanism 2-4 degrees counter-clockwise. ( a little less than the distance of one minute on a clocks hand.)Yes, this
adjustment is very sensitive! If you can't turn the mechanism, you can use a wrench to increase the grip but be very careful not to damage the connector plastic. Note that by rotating the valve you can see the internal door increase and decrease aperture. Re-install the valve with the three Allen screws slightly loose.
Start engine and note the idle speed. If it's too
high, turn the valve back by turning the electrical connector side (With electrical connector attached) to the factory position, using the scribe marks, and let the engine warm up to normal temperature.
Once the temperature is at normal, slowly turn the valve counter-clockwise until you hear the idle increase slightly. The computer will automatically compensate for the valve position but will allow for some adjustment.
Do not over-adjust as this would result in dangerously high idle and "looping" from computer
compensation as well as out of spec emissions. Once the optimum valve position is determined, tighted the three Allen screws to hold
the valve in the new position. Take a test drive and determine if the idle is normal under all conditions. Repeat adjustment if needed.
Use the scribe mark to return the valve to the factory position if the results are not helpful.
Otherwise, reward yourself with a warm beverage for a job well done !
I personally would change the last advice & use cold one but that's your own choice!
O.K here's the Idle Stabilizer adjustment:
Remove the idle stabilizer valve.
( Clean it as well )
Remove the epoxy covering the three Allen head screws on the plastic electronic connector side.
Make a scribe marking on the aluminum stablilzer
body to the plastic connector side to mark the
original factory position. Loosen, but do not remove, the three Allen screws. Grip the aluminum body and grab the plastic electrical connector and turn the internal mechanism 2-4 degrees counter-clockwise. ( a little less than the distance of one minute on a clocks hand.)Yes, this
adjustment is very sensitive! If you can't turn the mechanism, you can use a wrench to increase the grip but be very careful not to damage the connector plastic. Note that by rotating the valve you can see the internal door increase and decrease aperture. Re-install the valve with the three Allen screws slightly loose.
Start engine and note the idle speed. If it's too
high, turn the valve back by turning the electrical connector side (With electrical connector attached) to the factory position, using the scribe marks, and let the engine warm up to normal temperature.
Once the temperature is at normal, slowly turn the valve counter-clockwise until you hear the idle increase slightly. The computer will automatically compensate for the valve position but will allow for some adjustment.
Do not over-adjust as this would result in dangerously high idle and "looping" from computer
compensation as well as out of spec emissions. Once the optimum valve position is determined, tighted the three Allen screws to hold
the valve in the new position. Take a test drive and determine if the idle is normal under all conditions. Repeat adjustment if needed.
Use the scribe mark to return the valve to the factory position if the results are not helpful.
Otherwise, reward yourself with a warm beverage for a job well done !
I personally would change the last advice & use cold one but that's your own choice!
05-02-2002, 12:07 PM
#3
Here’s a link to the thread. I highly recommend this adjustment. It’s made a world of difference on my ('95 OBDI) car.
Tom
'95 993
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002968" target="_blank">Idle stabilizer valve adjustable </a>
Tom
'95 993
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002968" target="_blank">Idle stabilizer valve adjustable </a>
