KwanTsuDude32

I’m piecing together a coilover setup for my 96 C4S and I wanted to make sure I’m ordering the right parts.

KW V3
Rennline front Camber Plates
Rennline rear monoball strut mounts
Rennline spring hats
Rennline camber advantage strut bar

Is this all id need for a decent street setup for cruising/spirited driving? How much camber adjustment can I accomplish in the rear? I was thinking of getting the rear Toe, Camber, and Kinematic arms set, but wasn’t sure if that might be overkill for a weekend driver.

any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

rk-d

Do you really need more than the KWs for street driving? Seems like you are going for mega camber?

KwanTsuDude32

I’m going to end up at about -1.5° for the front and -3° for the rear. Not that crazy, but I don’t know what the limitations on the factory components are. I’m mainly concerned about the rear

DD GT3 RD

You don’t need anything more the coil overs. Hell I only run Kw V3 for track w/ tires and can run some quick times.

pp000830

Are the items you are contemplating consistent with this statement? Some of it looks like track oriented stuff. The stock rubber hats make for a quiet ride.
Andy

rk-d

-3 seems pretty extreme for a street car. Are you going for a look? Besides what you have, I’d say adjustable sways and a bump steer kit, as I’m assuming you’ll be dropping the car as well. This is all going to add up pretty quick and I personally think is overkill for a street car.

I run KWv3 and an ERP bump steer kit and the car is way more than capable for street driving at a hair above RS ride height. I’d say making sure your stock suspension components and bushings are in good shape and not in need of replacement should be a priority.

KwanTsuDude32

i don’t mind a less than quiet ride. I plan to lower the car to RS height or slightly lower and I want to make sure everything works well

Yes, there is a bit of a look I’m going for but I want to make sure I can do it correctly. I may be able to go slightly less than -3° with the wheel/tire specs I’m ordering.

bushings looked good when inspected last month

basically what I want to know is what the limits of camber adjustment are for the rear

Bill Verburg

All nice stuff but If it were my car i'd start w/ bushes
In front the RS had stiffer bushes in the positions noted here, you can also use RS bushes on the forward arms


IN back the RS used stiffer bushes as noted here in positions B(rear leg of the A-arm) & D(KT arm), for extra position stiffen the toe arm #2


The stiffer bushes in the above noted locations + a good alignment will make a huge difference in how the car handles.

also note that id you lower to Rs or lower height you really want to use the RS front wheel carriers or an aftermarket equivalent

911F1

^ My hats off to Bill. Everytime someone has a suspension/alignment or tire/rim question he's here to answer the call.
Year after year. Same questions come up and he calmly helps the OP. Even when the OP could do a search and answer his
own questions. Cheers to Bill!

k722070

my 1.5 cents is forget all the rennline stuff
spend the money replacing all the rear control arms(including the 500 buck a-arms), front bushings and tie rods.
kw's and all new control arms will make the car handle great and be lots of fun to drive.

-3 degrees camber is a wasted goal unless you are trying to fit 11 inch rears and 305's, and those won't help with cruising/spirited driving.

Bill Verburg

Replacing w/ new stock gets you new stock which I guess is an improvement over old worn out stock but not the sort of transformation in handling that the OP appears to be looking for.

When I first got my 993 I did buy all new RS arms for the KT and A-arm in the back, this makes sense as you also get new ball joints & that mono-ball joint on the leading leg of the A-arm does get loosey goosey w/ age, stock camber arm is ok, but the toe arm also really wants to be pinned down better. In front there's no need to buy the whole A-arm, bushes are easy to install and the ball joint is a separate part.

Gbos1

Forget the Rennline Stuff go Porsche OEM RS and call it a day.

KwanTsuDude32

I wouldnt say I’m trying to transform the way the car handles necessarily. While yes, I would like to improve handling, its not necessarily the goal. I should probably elaborate on my original post.

i want to be low but not destroy the handling of the car. If I’m able to improve the handling in any meaningful way, that’s a bonus. I love the way it handles already. I’d simply like to continue enjoying it when it’s lowered

thanks for the info!

do you know off hand the limits of negative rear camber adjustment with factory gear in back?

I did a search. And I’m STILL trying to find out the limits of rear camber adjustment. Do you know?

i am trying to fit some pretty aggressive 11” rears lol. But will likely go with something like 295 or 285 depending on the tire I end up choosing.

rk-d

You shouldn’t normally need -3 camber to fit 11 inch wheels with a 295 section tire. Your offsets must be pretty aggressive. Post pics when you’re done.

I don’t think -3 is possible with stock components on a lowered car. I’m assuming the pieces you’re considering can pull it off.

jj99c2

+1 on Bill's feedback. Putting in the firmer RS bushings (I used the Elephant Racing Parts) made a huge difference in my cars handling....even when the stock bushings looked okay during inspection.