When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Brake pad sensor light came on today. I plan to replace front and rear pads and rotors. It’s time. What else should be replaced? Does anyone have a full list of part numbers for everything - pads, rotors, sensors, bolts??, dampeners??? What else? This would be much easier if Porsche just sold a kit. Haha.
If you take the calipers off you need to replace the bolts, front & rear are different
check hoses first before ordering parts - are they original? If you change the hoses get the spring clips also
and fluid for your biannual flush
Be sure to assess how long rotors have been on and if in spec. Pelican parts often have things arranged and grouped by maintenance job and by year model car. You can choose oem or other supplier also. Sunset porsche parts and Sonnen Porsche Parts are popular for good prices, good service, and online oem parts diagrams organized by year and model. Makes it very easy to collect oem part numbers and order. Others as well but i have found those two very reliable
DIY on P-car most likely will walk you through it simply.
good luck. Easy job.
It's up to you but I suggest you first evaluate the condition of your rotors before ordering new ones. Check the thickness with a dial caliper and compare with the minimum required thickness as cast into the rotor or in the manual. If you still have a long way to go before the minimum is reached, then perform a visual inspection. Are there any deep gouges that a fingernail would catch on? If not, new pads will seat with just a few hard stops. Have you experienced any pulsation in the brake pedal when performing a firm, hard brake test? If so, it may suggest that your rotors are warped. If so, you should perform a run-out test by bolting the rotor to the hub, then measure run-out with a dial micrometer. If the rotors pass all these tests, then, IMHO, you're wasting your money by installing new rotors.
If you take the calipers off you need to replace the bolts, front & rear are different
check hoses first before ordering parts - are they original? If you change the hoses get the spring clips also
and fluid for your biannual flush
The factory specifies replacing the front caliper bolts once removed, I seem to recall the rears can be reused.
I paint the hub to rotor interface and the rotor tie-down screw with a little anti-seize. Seems to inhibit corrosion.
The tie-down screw can be reliably removed with a manual impact screwdriver, inexpensive at Harbor Freight.
One can also tie off the pad wear sensors and just look at the pads ones every few years. When the friction material is as thin as the backing plate, usually preceded by a bit noisier braking, it is time to change the pads,
Rock Auto had the correct drilled rotors at a friendly price when I changed mine out a few years back.
For some reason trying various pads with the spider clips, I have not had luck getting consistently quiet brakes. My thought is that the pads available today have a bit harder compound and so can be noisy.
This is based on anecdotal observation, not scientific testing.
Andy
My one data point of experience in trying other pads was with a very inexpensive set from Autozone--squealed like a stuck pig, no matter how much copper grease was used. You would never need a horn with these pads on the car.
Installed Genuine Porsche pads (the ones that cost more and come in the Porsche boxes) and new spiders, and they are as quiet as the proverbial church mouse.
My one data point of experience in trying other pads was with a very inexpensive set from Autozone--squealed like a stuck pig, no matter how much copper grease was used. You would never need a horn with these pads on the car.
Installed Genuine Porsche pads (the ones that cost more and come in the Porsche boxes) and new spiders, and they are as quiet as the proverbial church mouse.
In all cases I’ve found Porsche OE brake pads to be good products. Even for semi-occasional track use they are good (GT cars and 991).
New discs are 32mm front, 24mm rear. Wear limit is 30mm front, 22mm rear. Machining limits are 30.6mm front, 22.6mm rear, machining to be done equally on both sides. This is from the technical data section of the factory shop manual.
New discs are 32mm front, 24mm rear. Wear limit is 30mm front, 22mm rear. Machining limits are 30.6mm front, 22.6mm rear, machining to be done equally on both sides. This is from the technical data section of the factory shop manual.
It may simply be less expensive to replace them vs machining. I have never had problems with warped rotors or really any problems that required machining. On all three cars, 2-911 and a 924S the rotors were true but simply worn to their wear limits. The brakes seem to run a little quieter with fresh rotors.
Andy
here is what my local deal recommended. I plan to use my Indy and order parts myself but figured the dealer would give me everything possible to replace and i could cut back from there if necessary. This includes pads, rotors, sensors, assorted bolts, dampening panel something, vibration dampeners, etc. I'm of the mindset of doing this once so i don't mind buying and replacing some of these smaller parts. What does everyone think? Pads and rotors are obvious....not really sure about the rest. Are these parts and quantities correct and all needed for a full brake job?
Again, why can't Porsche just offer a kit.....would make life so much easier than ordering 42 parts in total for a brake job
Again, why can't Porsche just offer a kit.....would make life so much easier than ordering 42 parts in total for a brake job
For the manufacturer, a prepackaged kit would make logistics more complex - look at how many different cars can use certain parts in your list. Without a kit, the manufacturer can stock minimal numbers of those parts to service different combinations of parts as needed. In the dealer chain, a kit could make ordering easier but that doesn't really make the dealer's life easier - all you need is a knowledgeable parts person to order up the various parts based on need, assisted by the online ordering system.
For the independent or DIY mechanic, ordering individual parts is beneficial even if it's confusing at first. As others have mentioned, depending on the actual, inspected condition of the parts now on your car, you don't necessarily need all of the parts on the dealer's list. The dealer replaces the parts that the manufacturer requires for the job. An indy mechanic would probably replace the rotors even if they're in-spec, as doing so greatly reduces the chance that you'll be back complaining about noise or brake feel issues, but is unlikely to replace the rotor screws or sensors unless they're obviously defective. A DIY mechanic can take a little risk and try reusing the rotors (a routine practice in the past). The worst thing that happens is you pull things apart and toss on some rotors.
If you're experienced and thoughtful, you can go even further (for instance, research the case for replacing caliper bolts each time). But if you're doing your own work and are unsure of what to do, the dealer's list is a great start - order all the parts, swap 1:1, and be done.
05-10-2019, 11:32 PM
Brake pad sensor came on
