New droplinks or swaybars for PSS9s
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TechLaw,
i'll share my experience with you (although they were not the TRG bars they were the Welts). I wound up replacing them with factory RS bars. the collars that are not welded on wind up loosening over a very short timeframe. As a result your bars make noise (like a popping sound). So when you are on the street they really make a lot of noise when going over a speed bump or up a steep driveway.... everyone commented on how noisy they really were. also the bushings can be a bit loud. i recommend lubing them up nicely so they don't make a lot of noise. i believe the functionality of a rs bar and the TRG bars should be equivalent. Both are stiff and adjustable.
hope that helps.
Boris
i'll share my experience with you (although they were not the TRG bars they were the Welts). I wound up replacing them with factory RS bars. the collars that are not welded on wind up loosening over a very short timeframe. As a result your bars make noise (like a popping sound). So when you are on the street they really make a lot of noise when going over a speed bump or up a steep driveway.... everyone commented on how noisy they really were. also the bushings can be a bit loud. i recommend lubing them up nicely so they don't make a lot of noise. i believe the functionality of a rs bar and the TRG bars should be equivalent. Both are stiff and adjustable.
hope that helps.
Boris
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Thanks again everyone.
I decided to go with TRG bars and RS drops from Viperbob... now all I need to do is to figure out how to participate in those Viperbob barbeques from all the way on the right coast! Can you fedex a burger?
I decided to go with TRG bars and RS drops from Viperbob... now all I need to do is to figure out how to participate in those Viperbob barbeques from all the way on the right coast! Can you fedex a burger?
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Mark,
TRG fixed the problem by making a new front bushing. That's the one that would get loose anyway. I haven't had to adjust mine in almost 6 months now (and 4 or 5 DE's and several private track days), but I am using two collars per side (my original solution, that didn't work that well). Before the new bushing, I would adjustment them after every DE.
George
TRG fixed the problem by making a new front bushing. That's the one that would get loose anyway. I haven't had to adjust mine in almost 6 months now (and 4 or 5 DE's and several private track days), but I am using two collars per side (my original solution, that didn't work that well). Before the new bushing, I would adjustment them after every DE.
George
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Originally posted by Tech-Law
now all I need to do is to figure out how to participate in those Viperbob barbeques from all the way on the right coast! Can you fedex a burger?
now all I need to do is to figure out how to participate in those Viperbob barbeques from all the way on the right coast! Can you fedex a burger?
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I could fedex a burger, but one of the drivers would probably eat it before it got there, and then they would deny my claim and tell me I did not use adequate packing material.....
Also, with any installation there are proper ways to do things. TRG while they have VERY good products, sometimes their lack of proper installation material can lead to some issues.
So what is the PROPER way to install a TRG sway bar (and pretty much most aftermarket sway bars)
Front - The bushing should stick out a small amount off of the frame and into the wheel well area. Attach the collar to the bar and just snug it up against the bushing and tighten. Tightening the collars is the last step after everything else is done. Also check the tension on the bar after the brackets are tightened with the bushings lubed with my grease (obviously this needs to be done prior to attaching the drop links). If it is too tight, add a washer between the frame and the clamp.
Rear - Again, the bushings should stick out just a little bit off the sway bar mount to the outside. Attach the collar to the outside, just snug it up to the bushing and tighten. Again, the collars are the last step. On the rears, use 1 washer under each clamp bolt. Also make sure the bushings are lubed well with my grease.
Several problem areas if misinstalled:
1) Generally the sway bars will loosen or walk due to the forces being applied. If the collars are installed and stand off too far from the mounts, then the bar will be able to slide back and forth pounding the collars with some momentum each time you go into a turn. This can then cause them to be pushed further out with subsequent hits.
2) Also, if you do not have the bushings sticking out of the mounts to act as a cushion for the collars, then the collars will rotate against the metal mounts when the suspension is moving. This can lead to noise from the metal to metal contact and can try lead to the collars seeming to loosen (most of the time the collars are twisting on the bar with the metal to metal contact ad are wearing so they become loose).
3) Overtightening the bar. Disconnect you old bars on the ends, and feel what it takes to move them. The new bars should actually slide a little easier with the delrin bushings (of course this can very with the age and conditions of your stock setup). The bushings have no give like rubber. This gives you gave a little better response for turn ins. However, If you over tighten them, the bar will almost not twist. The bar must be able to move yet be secure in order to function properly...
OK, I think that is enough before my first cup of coffee for the day.
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