agonzaga36

Just recently installed KW V3s on my 95 NB. My tech said he noticed that the rubber housing/boot on both rear control arm toe links are almost completely gone -- advises to get it replaced.

1. How serious is this? should this be replaced ASAP?
2. Thinking of replacing them with these https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...iABEgJfPvD_BwE

Are these good enough for street and occasional canyon runs? Seems like good value for the pair.

Whats the difference compared to the Tarett ERP ones that are priced at $310 each (https://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/-p-...CABEgKiu_D_BwE)

Holger3.2

mainly the price; function the same

in case you're lying often under the car, the red Tarrets look nicer

Bill Verburg

The stock toe links are the most stressed of all the rear suspension links w/ the possible exception of the 2 A arm links. The toe links are almost always the first to fail , the others won't be too far behind.

stock toe links have rubber in the joints this allows for a more comfortable ride w/ less abrupt motion. The Tarett and Rennline replacements have monoball links that tighten up the ride a lot, motion will be much more abrupt and limited.
You can use either on the street but monoball links are more track oriented, and also more subject to wear. If you use them do get the protective booties and occasionally spritz in some lube (WD40 works fine) you will also want the eccentric locks for the inner ends

agonzaga36

Any recommendations for toe links that ARE NOT monoball type? Or is the only option the OEM ones?

95_993

I have the Tarrett version you posted and have been happy with them (4 yrs now). As Bill V noted, they help in tightening things up a bit in the rear. Between Bilsteins, RS motor mounts and Tarrett toe links, I feel the rear end is very precise and planted.

Tlaloc75

Nothing wrong with oem/stock. They lasted 25 years, the next set will last just as long. I did mine with RS bushings and am very happy with them. I drove a comparable car with full mono-***** (compared to my full RS style bushings) and I honestly couldn’t tell much of a difference on the street, either in performance or NVH. Which tells me it’s probably best to stick with rubber bushings since they last longest and are no trouble and no maintenance during their lifetime.

If you are doing lots of track work, the extra precision of the mono-***** may be worth it.