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I plan on replacing my lower valve cover gaskets and the timing chain rubber grommets to hopeful stop or decrease some oil leaks.
Thinking about doing the upper valve cover gaskets as well.
This will all be done without lowering the engine, but removing the mufflers, heat exchanges, air cleaner housing, blower motor and duct.
It's a tip so I don't have to worry about the clutch pipe.
I have searched and read a lot of post and understand the tins can be challenging. However I have not found a DIY with pics on the tin removal.
Anyone have or know of a good write up for this?
Also, anyone find a good degreaser that can be found at a big box or average auto store. Facto AT30 seems to hard to get locally.
You don’t need a DIY on this. Passenger side is a piece of cake, self explanatory. Drivers side suuuuuuuuuucks. It would be easy too, except for one single tiny screw all the way fore. You have to wiggle your hands and some sort of wrench in there and turn it a tenth a rotation at a time. Grrrr. When reinstalling that tin, just toss that one screw so that future removal is easy.
1. Remove your mufflers and the black hoses that connect the heat exchangers
2. Remove the air pipe that connects the air box to the clutch. A 10mm ratcheting wrench with a flex head works well as the space is tight to get to the bolts that secures it
3. Wobble extensions and a quality hex head socket to remove the hex bolts that secure it. They may be seized so some pb blaster may be needed. I ended up stripping one so had to use one of those spiral bolt removers and came out easily.
Just did upper and lower valve cover gaskets and the tins weren’t too bad. Just take a look at them and you’ll see where the bolts need to be removed. Also, you don’t need to remove the heat exchangers. I know the job is easier with them removed but I think they can be difficult to get off and probably not worth the time. Good luck!
Drivers side suuuuuuuuuucks. It would be easy too, except for one single tiny screw all the way fore. You have to wiggle your hands and some sort of wrench in there and turn it a tenth a rotation at a time. Grrrr. When reinstalling that tin, just toss that one screw so that future removal is easy.
Yes for got about that one! Driver side also has one too aft. Regardless this right angle screw/socket works great. Harbor freight for a few bucks to put a socket on it if it is a hex head bolt.
Its a 10mm set screw as are all the other little ones. For some reason the allen screw behind the plugs leads on both sides was seized and snapped. So take care. It's also easier with a tip as you don't have the clutch vent pipe. I deleted mine.
Just get some good quality 5 mm and 6 mm hex bit sockets and make sure they are fully seated in the fasteners. I prefer the 1/4" drive stubby.
Some owners have complained about these fasteners being soft (the socket head hex fasteners holding the tins and valve covers on). They are a grade 8.8 fastener and no softer than any other 8.8 fastener.
This will all be done without lowering the engine, but removing the mufflers, heat exchangers, air cleaner housing, blower motor and duct.
If these have never been off, and if the nuts are extremely corroded, I'd be careful. If you snap a stud, you'll be in a world of hurt. As a minimum, use plenty of PB Blaster and use a 6-point socket. If you have some oxy-acetylene torches, I would get the nuts cherry red/orange hot before putting a socket on them and go slow with "feel". I had to on a friend's 993 or they would have all snapped. Once cool, I run an adjustable die over them to clean off the corrosion.
if you drop the transmission cover the screws easy to see and easy to reach with a wrench or socket.
Yeah, I did that. Must be a tolerance build-up issue. For me that forward tin screw was nearly impossible to get at, and I have a decent tolerance for this miserable stuff. So perhaps I just got unlucky in the GoT (Game of Tolerances).
Or my engine mounts or subframe mounts caused it to be obscured??
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Engine tin removal
