Rear Bushing Tool?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: Raleigh, NC
Rear Bushing Tool?
I have searched but have come up empty.
When replacing the rear control arm bushings (KT Arm, Camber Arm, ect) They all seem to be the same size rubber bushing. Is there a specific tool that others have been successful with removing old and installing new bushings? I see Elephant has a specific tool for the front arms but nothing for the rear arms.
When replacing the rear control arm bushings (KT Arm, Camber Arm, ect) They all seem to be the same size rubber bushing. Is there a specific tool that others have been successful with removing old and installing new bushings? I see Elephant has a specific tool for the front arms but nothing for the rear arms.
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Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Massachusetts
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: Raleigh, NC
Have a look at the fifth photo in this thread
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 101
I used a drive socket to press out the rubber on the lower a-arm, easy and worked well.
if you are pressing in a new rubber bushing you would need to grind out the inside of the socket to make space for the rubber,
might be tricky since you wouldn't want to damage the new rubber.
2 cents-
replacing rubber bushings on old rear control arms might not be a good idea since the ball joints are probably in rough shape, especially the toe arm.
might be a better idea to buy all new arms.
if you can move the ball joints easily they are probably shot.
while expensive, the car is at least 2 decades old and new control arms would last at least the rest of our driving years.
sunset says the arms are $260 to $300 each, so about 1700.
turn buckle style from rennline or tarett would be about 1500.
when those wear out at least it is only the rod ends at 20-40 bucks each.
then there are the very pricey lower a-arms...
life is expensive having an old sports car.
if you are pressing in a new rubber bushing you would need to grind out the inside of the socket to make space for the rubber,
might be tricky since you wouldn't want to damage the new rubber.
2 cents-
replacing rubber bushings on old rear control arms might not be a good idea since the ball joints are probably in rough shape, especially the toe arm.
might be a better idea to buy all new arms.
if you can move the ball joints easily they are probably shot.
while expensive, the car is at least 2 decades old and new control arms would last at least the rest of our driving years.
sunset says the arms are $260 to $300 each, so about 1700.
turn buckle style from rennline or tarett would be about 1500.
when those wear out at least it is only the rod ends at 20-40 bucks each.
then there are the very pricey lower a-arms...
life is expensive having an old sports car.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: Raleigh, NC
I used a drive socket to press out the rubber on the lower a-arm, easy and worked well.
if you are pressing in a new rubber bushing you would need to grind out the inside of the socket to make space for the rubber,
might be tricky since you wouldn't want to damage the new rubber.
2 cents-
replacing rubber bushings on old rear control arms might not be a good idea since the ball joints are probably in rough shape, especially the toe arm.
might be a better idea to buy all new arms.
if you can move the ball joints easily they are probably shot.
while expensive, the car is at least 2 decades old and new control arms would last at least the rest of our driving years.
sunset says the arms are $260 to $300 each, so about 1700.
turn buckle style from rennline or tarett would be about 1500.
when those wear out at least it is only the rod ends at 20-40 bucks each.
then there are the very pricey lower a-arms...
life is expensive having an old sports car.
if you are pressing in a new rubber bushing you would need to grind out the inside of the socket to make space for the rubber,
might be tricky since you wouldn't want to damage the new rubber.
2 cents-
replacing rubber bushings on old rear control arms might not be a good idea since the ball joints are probably in rough shape, especially the toe arm.
might be a better idea to buy all new arms.
if you can move the ball joints easily they are probably shot.
while expensive, the car is at least 2 decades old and new control arms would last at least the rest of our driving years.
sunset says the arms are $260 to $300 each, so about 1700.
turn buckle style from rennline or tarett would be about 1500.
when those wear out at least it is only the rod ends at 20-40 bucks each.
then there are the very pricey lower a-arms...
life is expensive having an old sports car.
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 101
take the new bushing to harbor freight and find a similar size drive socket, about 40mm OD.
dremel out the inside of the socket so the new bushing fits inside with the socket pressing against the rubber/thin aluminum wall.
the old bushing should press out easily.
put the new bushing in the freezer for a day and just before pressing it in, stick the control arm end into boiling water for 5 minutes or so.
still need a press but should be easy.
using this method for the a-arm, the metal bushing barely even needed to be pressed into place.
dremel out the inside of the socket so the new bushing fits inside with the socket pressing against the rubber/thin aluminum wall.
the old bushing should press out easily.
put the new bushing in the freezer for a day and just before pressing it in, stick the control arm end into boiling water for 5 minutes or so.
still need a press but should be easy.
using this method for the a-arm, the metal bushing barely even needed to be pressed into place.
