Wide Oval scrape repair
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Wide Oval scrape repair
It seems that quite a few owners that have wide oval exhaust tips have had issues with the bottom scraping pavement, particularly wide body tips (7110). Has anyone had experience having the tips repaired?
#2
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Don't the scrape marks face down where one can't see them?
#3
I believe the OEM wide oval tips are chrome plated. I have aftermarket ones that are polished stainless which are very easy to repair. Blend the scratches out with a Roloc disk and repolish.
If the OEM ones are in-fact chromed you'd need to strip and replate.
If the OEM ones are in-fact chromed you'd need to strip and replate.
#5
Rennlist Member
I have a set of these that are pretty beat up. They are not chrome plated- they are polished Stainless steel- but mine would need to have metal added back. These are incredibly expensive, so maybe it's worth repairing- I'd love to see some before/afters and know of a shop that can do this work reasonably priced.
#6
I have a set of these that are pretty beat up. They are not chrome plated- they are polished Stainless steel- but mine would need to have metal added back. These are incredibly expensive, so maybe it's worth repairing- I'd love to see some before/afters and know of a shop that can do this work reasonably priced.
I have reworked the fabspeed single-walled wide oval tips, but probably not to the satisfaction of the OCD.
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#8
I've got a pair of TechArt stainless tips for narrowbody. One has typical scraping on the bottom, the other has scraping that created a dent. If someone wants them for cheap please PM me.
#9
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
For the future just don't tighten the mounting bolts too tight so if they hit they will just deflect upwards slightly and you can loosen the bolt and reposition them back into position. If your car is lowered too much you will be revisiting this issue. An additional item to protect them from road rash is a skid plate that extends under them. I made something like this but didn't extend it under the tips. I see no reason why it couldn't be modified to protect the tips:
On my car, where I no longer use the OE under engine tray, the crescent-shaped skid plate is held in place via straps made from copper plumbing tube. The straps are attached to the two transverse exhaust mounting clamp studs using flange nuts. It floats under the bumper skirt but is not actually attached to it so when it takes a hit the shear force is not transferred to the bumper cover. At this point, it has saved me an expensive body repair on four or five occasions. Making such a guard is an easy DIY project involving some HVAC duct sheet metal and some copper tubing purchased at a local DIY store. In the above picture, the guard is a bright metal. I have since painted it black with high heat black spray paint. In either case, it is only visible from under the car.
Andy
On my car, where I no longer use the OE under engine tray, the crescent-shaped skid plate is held in place via straps made from copper plumbing tube. The straps are attached to the two transverse exhaust mounting clamp studs using flange nuts. It floats under the bumper skirt but is not actually attached to it so when it takes a hit the shear force is not transferred to the bumper cover. At this point, it has saved me an expensive body repair on four or five occasions. Making such a guard is an easy DIY project involving some HVAC duct sheet metal and some copper tubing purchased at a local DIY store. In the above picture, the guard is a bright metal. I have since painted it black with high heat black spray paint. In either case, it is only visible from under the car.
Andy
#10
Instructor
Slight loss of tip curvature visible in this photo taken about 10 minutes after.
#12
PS Armorer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Way back when I acquired a set that were a bit rough. I cleaned them up and sent them out to Harley shop in KY to have them triple chrome plated. Came back gleaming; of course the inside gets plated too unlike stock where they are not polished.
Then I promptly scraped up the bottoms of both of them. Oh well. At least they are really easy to clean.
Then I promptly scraped up the bottoms of both of them. Oh well. At least they are really easy to clean.
#13
I have personally reworked a set of factory wide ovals due to bottom wear from the previous owner.
They are stainless and they are chrome plated.
I used my TIG with stainless wire to fill and built up any of the thin areas. Then, it was sanding and polishing. Took hours but looked like new. I had to build up over the factory part number stamped on the bottom so if you are looking for originality...
I did not chrome plate them afterwards. After polishing you can see a very faint border between the plating and polished stainless. Just remember were talking about the bottoms of exhaust tips here.
They are stainless and they are chrome plated.
I used my TIG with stainless wire to fill and built up any of the thin areas. Then, it was sanding and polishing. Took hours but looked like new. I had to build up over the factory part number stamped on the bottom so if you are looking for originality...
I did not chrome plate them afterwards. After polishing you can see a very faint border between the plating and polished stainless. Just remember were talking about the bottoms of exhaust tips here.
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Half German, on the weekends I put it in my pipe and smoke it Actually, soots not bad. 4 x year I polish with a good metal polish, inside and out. Works well.
I spoke with Darren at Fister and he has ceramic coated them in black. I'm sure that would look cool.
I spoke with Darren at Fister and he has ceramic coated them in black. I'm sure that would look cool.
#15
Thats not going to fill or remove the scratches that you already KNOW are there, waizone...perhaps a frontal and gouging your eyes out will help? J/K, Lol... good luck in finding your solution.