golfnutintib

Cross post... thx

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...nnel-rust.html

jskylarwilson

I wash thoroughly with two buckets, a foam cannon, and a spot free filtered rinse system. I then grab my leaf blower and dry it with that. I do that so I don't rub it and introduce additional scratches, and to get water out of all creases.
I do that with all my cars, and it works really well.

Dplus

1995 993 Cab owned by my father from '95 to 2010. He had a detailer wash it every two weeks at home, never drove in the rain and always garaged. I found the rust in 2016 and had it repaired at Barsotti's Body and Fender in San Rafaei Ca. they did an excellent job.

rk-d

I'm doing "waterless" wash. The waterless systems have high lubricity. Take a bucket of water and add some capfuls. Soak a bunch of microfiber towels in it and use one per panel. Use a detail spray along with it. If you are liberal with fresh towels and spray, it should be ok. If the car is really filthy, I may use a water hose at the base of the car, but I'm going to avoid using the hose on anything above the belt line. I use a blower to dry out the water and that does a good job of driving out water hiding in crevices.

Ivan J

I wash my Midnight Blue 993 about once a month. I rinse with deionized water and dry it with the Master Blaster, which is strong enough to force all of the water out from underneath the window seals. No water spots and no swirl marks. My car hasn't seen rain for at least 10 years.

I had my windshield replaced last year. There was a small amount of surface rust in one area toward the bottom-center of the cowl. It all came off with a wire brush, after which a rust inhibiting primer was applied before installing the new glass.

Churchill

The trick to avoiding window rust is to blow out the channels with compressed air after you wash the car. You could buy a home air compressor and get a special rubber-tipped nozzle that won't scratch the paint. Or you could use my method. It is awkward though. Only do it in private, as it looks ridiculous and could potentially get you reported to the authorities. Do not even allow your wife or children to see, or you could be dealing with anger, confusion, and trauma for years.

What you do is lift up the edge of the outer seal (doesn't matter where), pucker up, and seal your lips as well as possible in the opening you've created between the seal and the body of the car. Then blow hard into the opening. You'll be amazed how much water comes pouring out from under the seals. Blow several times until no more water comes out. When you see how much water those horribly designed seals trap, you'll wonder why every 993 on the road hasn't had to have both window channels replaced. I've owned my car for 12 years and have never had any rust in the window channels.

golfnutintib

video demo please... forum members really need you to show us exactly how it is done right!

LimeyBoy

Maybe blowing your seal 😙 also moves the water into additional places under the seal - but if the trapped water is as much as you indicate, my method (RL suggestion) of wooden sticks under corners of seal, left overnight to promote evaporation, may not be enough either.
Maybe combine then two methods: so after showing the car some affection, jam sticks in it.
I've forgotten to remove the sticks a few times and driven off. Bet that breeze at speed evaporates the water even faster = method 3.

Gbos1

HalfGerman

Thanks Churchill for the reminder. My dad used to huff and puff and blow water out from mouldings, door jambs, etc after washing his cars.

Paolo1

This is absurd that we have to go to these lengths, but I'm all in as well and always looking for new methods. After drying with a griot's type air blaster, I leave the doors and hoods open in the garage for a good 12 hrs with a dehumidifier running.

Churchill

I think there are some websites that show you how to do it.....just, you know, google around a bit.....

There's no downside to blowing your seal. It's great for everyone. The F&R windows are glued into the window frame. They have a plastic surround that the outer seal snaps into. It's between the outer seal and the inner glue where water is trapped. You can't force water past the glue. And putting sticks under the corners may help a little, but will still leave a ton of water left inside. You're gonna have to blow.

Won't work. Sunshine doesn't dry water that's trapped behind the seal.

Ivan J

Seriously, if you've never masterblasted, you don't know what you're missing. The airflow is strong enough to blow every drop of water out from under the seals, without having to manually lift the seal.

pp000830

I wash my 100K miles, daily driver example maybe three times a year using cheap commercial car wash detergent. Once every two to three years I coat it with paint sealer (synthetic wax) and buff it out with a hand buffer and a soft foam wheel from Harbor Freight. As far as rust in the window channels goes, I don't have any because I filled the channels with Black Roof and Flashing Sealant from The Home Depot and so now there are effectively no channels underneath the window edge molding to capture or hold water.
Andy

mike cap