Rubber windshield moulding loose?
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Joined: Sep 2002
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Rubber windshield moulding loose?
I just put the first coat of Zaino on the car and am waiting for it to dry so I can buff and see what it looks like.
However, I noticed a small area where the rubber windshield moulding has pulled away from the metal body a bit. It looks like the rubber is glued down and the glue came loose. Anyone see this before or have any idea to fix it?
TIA,
However, I noticed a small area where the rubber windshield moulding has pulled away from the metal body a bit. It looks like the rubber is glued down and the glue came loose. Anyone see this before or have any idea to fix it?
TIA,
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 130
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From: Frisco, Texas
I actually read something about that in Excellence magazine, or maybe one of the British mags a few months ago. I remember reading that this leads to the windshield squeaking terribly, usually caused by the 18's pounding the street.
Use Pedro's Ice Wax, it helps the seal retain it's elasticity. You might have to reglue the seal to the body. Catch it now or you might need to replace the seal altogether.
GOOD LUCK
Use Pedro's Ice Wax, it helps the seal retain it's elasticity. You might have to reglue the seal to the body. Catch it now or you might need to replace the seal altogether.
GOOD LUCK
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From: Houston, TX
I just noticed this on the rear window seal. At the time, I was doing a "Pedro's" treatment to it and found how easily I could remove the entire seal! I was careful to not remove it to the point where it would be difficult to seat it again, i.e. the 3rd brake light area. I guess at some point I should re-glue it.
Anyone know what kinda stuff the factory used?
Anyone know what kinda stuff the factory used?
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Upstate NY
Guys,
The front and rear rubber windshield trim pieces fit into small metal channels that surround the windows. You should be able to press the rubber trim piece back into its place. Look at the underside of the trim piece and you'll see the "male" notch that fits into the channel. You can spray a little soapy water into the area to help it slide in.
There is no glue used on these trim pieces. I've replaced both front and rear rubber window trim (for cosmetic reasons) and it is very easy to do. No tools, no glue, just some soapy water and maybe one of those little plastic body shop "spatulas".
These rubber trim pieces don't have anything to do with the window squeaking problem front and rear. The fix to this problem is to pull the rubber trim out of the way and insert the foam "rope" around the window(s) perimeter. Then dose with Pedros. This is what the factory service bulletin suggests and it worked on the front and rear of my 1997 C2.
Hope this helps.
Mike Cap
1997 C2
Arena Red
The front and rear rubber windshield trim pieces fit into small metal channels that surround the windows. You should be able to press the rubber trim piece back into its place. Look at the underside of the trim piece and you'll see the "male" notch that fits into the channel. You can spray a little soapy water into the area to help it slide in.
There is no glue used on these trim pieces. I've replaced both front and rear rubber window trim (for cosmetic reasons) and it is very easy to do. No tools, no glue, just some soapy water and maybe one of those little plastic body shop "spatulas".
These rubber trim pieces don't have anything to do with the window squeaking problem front and rear. The fix to this problem is to pull the rubber trim out of the way and insert the foam "rope" around the window(s) perimeter. Then dose with Pedros. This is what the factory service bulletin suggests and it worked on the front and rear of my 1997 C2.
Hope this helps.
Mike Cap
1997 C2
Arena Red
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Plano, TX
Mike is right,
On my front windshield trim the male notch had been torn in one of the corners and it looked like what you're describing.
Replacement trim wasn't very expensive - under $100 anyway - and was easy to replace if you soap the trim before insertion.
Did I just say that?
Ben
On my front windshield trim the male notch had been torn in one of the corners and it looked like what you're describing.
Replacement trim wasn't very expensive - under $100 anyway - and was easy to replace if you soap the trim before insertion.
Did I just say that?
Ben
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
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My seals are loose too, it is kind of a pain if they came loose alot. I thought the windows had been replaced and the seals weren't glued back in. If you take the time to reset them right they won't come out for awhile. One thing though if you use a car wash with a dryer they will blow out if not set in right. Before everyone makes fun of me for driving through a car wash I did it ONCE because I had some sort of lime rock underneath the car from driving through a construction zone.
Otherwise she has never seen a automatic car wash. <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Otherwise she has never seen a automatic car wash. <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
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From: Houston, TX
I know what the creaking windshield problem is, but I was more concerned with whether or not there originally was any glue keeping the seal in place. It just seemed to pull out fairly easily.
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From: Kinver, United Kingdom
As Mike said earlier in the thread there is no glue involved. On my car the front seal is a very very tight fit in the channel, the rear is much looser and can easily be removed.
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From: Upstate NY
Matt,
No glue is used by the factory on the front or rear rubber trim around the windows. If there is glue residue, someone else did it. It may be that the molded part on the underside of the seal (that "snaps" into the metal channel) has been torn off and someone glued it to keep it in place, instead of just replacing the rubber trim piece.
The trim around the rear window does pull out pretty easily. The front is a bear to pull out.
My comment on the windshield creaks was not directed at you, but to SoCal's post.
Mike Cap
No glue is used by the factory on the front or rear rubber trim around the windows. If there is glue residue, someone else did it. It may be that the molded part on the underside of the seal (that "snaps" into the metal channel) has been torn off and someone glued it to keep it in place, instead of just replacing the rubber trim piece.
The trim around the rear window does pull out pretty easily. The front is a bear to pull out.
My comment on the windshield creaks was not directed at you, but to SoCal's post.
Mike Cap
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From: Kinver, United Kingdom
Matt
I have also replaced both of mine the rear is really easy and like yours my rear one was a little scruffy looking. Replacement makes a pleasing difference to the look of the car and worth doing IMHO.
<img border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" title="" src="graemlins/bigok.gif" />
I have also replaced both of mine the rear is really easy and like yours my rear one was a little scruffy looking. Replacement makes a pleasing difference to the look of the car and worth doing IMHO.
<img border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" title="" src="graemlins/bigok.gif" />
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Matt Vaughan:
<strong>Tim, anything special I need to do for the area around the 3rd brake light? I haven't taken a look at it yet, but thought it might be more involved.
Thanks.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Matt
Just pop off the 3rd light cover - pull up one end & the fasteners will pop loose, repeat at the other end. Then just undo the 2 nuts & you can remove the entire 3d light assembly & put it aside to access the rubber molding. Easier to do than to explain.
<strong>Tim, anything special I need to do for the area around the 3rd brake light? I haven't taken a look at it yet, but thought it might be more involved.
Thanks.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Matt
Just pop off the 3rd light cover - pull up one end & the fasteners will pop loose, repeat at the other end. Then just undo the 2 nuts & you can remove the entire 3d light assembly & put it aside to access the rubber molding. Easier to do than to explain.