Prepping car for a 400 mile drive at night through the desert, need LED or HID recos
#61
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I have the tore HID kit already for the lows. The highs is the stock halogen. I like the output of the new projector and HID on high beam mode with the splitter so will keep the halogen. It is a noticable improvement over the stock projector.
#62
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I checked with Morimoto Tech Support. They said that there are different splitter configurations. The 993 should use the H1 to 9006 splitter. I ordered the correct one but will check my delivery this weekend to see if (1) I received the correct splitter that I ordered, and (2) if it is the correct splitter. I will let you know if I have the same problems you all have reported on.
#64
#65
I have the H1-9006 splitters. Both connectors on the ground wire are wrong. I'm going to disassemble it and crimp on the correct connectors. Not a biggie, but ideally they correct the problem going forward.
#66
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I too have the wrong sizes for the connectors. Looks like I will have to do the same. I also purchased the Car Lighting District LED High Beams. I was wondering what others who bought these did with the ballasts? Do they fit inside the housing? If so, where did you mount them? Did anyone mount them outside the housing?
#67
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Car Light District LEDs
The only question I have is where to mount the ballasts? They are small and may just sit inside the housing, but I would rather get other's feedback before doing so.
#68
Interesting. I am eager to hear how those flamethrower high beams work. I've run DDM HID's for the past 10 years and leave the ballasts inside the light housings with no ill effects. No idea how large the LED ballasts are but unless they get very hot or would be rattling around in there, it should be fine.
#69
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It may be that I’m still recovering from too much turkey...I’m a bit unclear on what I need to purshase from RQ to do this right. My ‘97 C2S does not have factory litronics.
I know I need projectors...
I know I need projectors...
- Do I need the optional HID ballasts?
- Do I need the optional H1 HID bulbs? If so, which of those produces a white vs a blueish light?
- Do I need the optional HID relay harness?
Thanks much, Rick
#70
Rennlist Member
It may be that I’m still recovering from too much turkey...I’m a bit unclear on what I need to purshase from RQ to do this right. My ‘97 C2S does not have factory litronics.
I know I need projectors...
I know I need projectors...
- Do I need the optional HID ballasts?
- Do I need the optional H1 HID bulbs? If so, which of those produces a white vs a blueish light?
- Do I need the optional HID relay harness?
From RQ, you do not need bulbs or ballasts. All you need are the projectors and the RQ conversion kit for mounting. I do not think you need the relay harness, but am not sure of your wiring of a non Litronic housing.
As far as what color temperature bulb to get, that is more of a personal nature than anything. Standard US HID color temperature is around 4300K. There is a slight yellow to the light and experts say it produces the most light of any other temperature. Personally, I prefer the 6000K color temp as it is of a pure white color and is the closest temperature to LED car lighting. Even though it produces a small bit of less light, I personally think it increases greater contrast in seeing down the road, which is what I like.
I chose to replace my halogen high beams with the Car Lighting District LED. They claim it is a whopping 8000 Lumens brightness, and it is a drop in replacement requiring no modification to the headlight assembly internals. Operating at 6500K color temperature, it is a good match with my 6000K low beams.
The high beam splitter from RQ is almost a no-brainer if you are going to upgrade your high beams. The RQ projectors will include a Bi-Xenon actuator that will alter the light pattern of the low beam, giving you a low/high beam dispersal pattern from the same bulb. If you want serious high beams, then an upgraded high beam bulb and the splitter will in essence give you double high beams.
So in summary, I purchased by bulbs from Tore (T-Light kit) and Car Lighting District (LED high beam). No bulbs from RQ. From RQ I purchased the projectors only, the RQ conversion kit, and the high beam splitters.
#71
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I was on the fence on the wiring harness but did several searches and there have been some issues with light and ballast issues that the harness should eliminate For $20 with the discount it seemed like a good investment.
Sound like I have it covered?
#72
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#73
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I only found a few posting where ballast or lights failed and the general opinion from the manufactures was the voltage output from the car was the cause of the failures. The harness with the relay gives a consistent output that avoids any issues. To be honest, the issues are so rare that the harness and relays are probably not needed on a majority or our cars. But, for the cost of the harness and relays I decided to use it.
#75
Originally Posted by Chuck W.
I only found a few posting where ballast or lights failed and the general opinion from the manufactures was the voltage output from the car was the cause of the failures. The harness with the relay gives a consistent output that avoids any issues. To be honest, the issues are so rare that the harness and relays are probably not needed on a majority or our cars. But, for the cost of the harness and relays I decided to use it.