samurai_k

I have the tore HID kit already for the lows. The highs is the stock halogen. I like the output of the new projector and HID on high beam mode with the splitter so will keep the halogen. It is a noticable improvement over the stock projector.

jdrake

I checked with Morimoto Tech Support. They said that there are different splitter configurations. The 993 should use the H1 to 9006 splitter. I ordered the correct one but will check my delivery this weekend to see if (1) I received the correct splitter that I ordered, and (2) if it is the correct splitter. I will let you know if I have the same problems you all have reported on.

Chuck W.

I just order the parts from them with their black Friday discount. I specifically asked for the H1 to 9006 splitter.

goofballdeluxe

Chuck, what all did you order from them besides the projector and splitter? Do you already have OEM or aftermarket LED's in your car?

Churchill

I have the H1-9006 splitters. Both connectors on the ground wire are wrong. I'm going to disassemble it and crimp on the correct connectors. Not a biggie, but ideally they correct the problem going forward.

jdrake

I too have the wrong sizes for the connectors. Looks like I will have to do the same. I also purchased the Car Lighting District LED High Beams. I was wondering what others who bought these did with the ballasts? Do they fit inside the housing? If so, where did you mount them? Did anyone mount them outside the housing?

jdrake

The CLD LEDs fit perfectly in the high beam location. There were no modifications needed. On installation, the heat sinks may be unscrewed so that the bulb clips can be re-engaged. Then the heat sink can be screwed back down. There is no modification needed for the plastic piece that the projector screws into.

The only question I have is where to mount the ballasts? They are small and may just sit inside the housing, but I would rather get other's feedback before doing so.

Churchill

Interesting. I am eager to hear how those flamethrower high beams work. I've run DDM HID's for the past 10 years and leave the ballasts inside the light housings with no ill effects. No idea how large the LED ballasts are but unless they get very hot or would be rattling around in there, it should be fine.

Rick

• Do I need the optional HID ballasts?
• Do I need the optional H1 HID bulbs? If so, which of those produces a white vs a blueish light?
• Do I need the optional HID relay harness?

I want to also improve the high beam lighting capability...anything additional i need to do that? I believe the high beam splitter will allow both high & low beam bulbs to be on when the high beam is selected but it’s not clear if the kit includes an improved bulb for the high beams.

Thanks much, Rick

jdrake

Purchase the Tore T-Light HID kit from BergvillF/X. They are an easy drop in HID upgrade to your existing low beams. The kit comes with everything you need, including ballasts and bulbs and wiring.

From RQ, you do not need bulbs or ballasts. All you need are the projectors and the RQ conversion kit for mounting. I do not think you need the relay harness, but am not sure of your wiring of a non Litronic housing.

As far as what color temperature bulb to get, that is more of a personal nature than anything. Standard US HID color temperature is around 4300K. There is a slight yellow to the light and experts say it produces the most light of any other temperature. Personally, I prefer the 6000K color temp as it is of a pure white color and is the closest temperature to LED car lighting. Even though it produces a small bit of less light, I personally think it increases greater contrast in seeing down the road, which is what I like.

I chose to replace my halogen high beams with the Car Lighting District LED. They claim it is a whopping 8000 Lumens brightness, and it is a drop in replacement requiring no modification to the headlight assembly internals. Operating at 6500K color temperature, it is a good match with my 6000K low beams.

The high beam splitter from RQ is almost a no-brainer if you are going to upgrade your high beams. The RQ projectors will include a Bi-Xenon actuator that will alter the light pattern of the low beam, giving you a low/high beam dispersal pattern from the same bulb. If you want serious high beams, then an upgraded high beam bulb and the splitter will in essence give you double high beams.

So in summary, I purchased by bulbs from Tore (T-Light kit) and Car Lighting District (LED high beam). No bulbs from RQ. From RQ I purchased the projectors only, the RQ conversion kit, and the high beam splitters.

Chuck W.

I ordered the Bi-Xenon Projectors, the RQ Hardware / Brackets, the Optional HD Relay Harness and the Optional High Beam Splitters from the Retrofit Source. The headlights are completely stock so I added 4300 T-Light Kit from Bergvill FX and the H1 LED 2800 bulb from Cuclops.

I was on the fence on the wiring harness but did several searches and there have been some issues with light and ballast issues that the harness should eliminate For $20 with the discount it seemed like a good investment.

Sound like I have it covered?

jdrake

Maybe my search skills are terrible. What have been those issues with the T-Lights and ballasts that the harness eliminates?

Chuck W.

I only found a few posting where ballast or lights failed and the general opinion from the manufactures was the voltage output from the car was the cause of the failures. The harness with the relay gives a consistent output that avoids any issues. To be honest, the issues are so rare that the harness and relays are probably not needed on a majority or our cars. But, for the cost of the harness and relays I decided to use it.

mootsvamootsrsl

wow those morimotos make a huge difference. I just got the t lights from bergville in Im gonna post some pics today

71-3.0-911

While this is generally true of most cheap Chinese produced HID kits, Tores product does not fall into this category.