GBX

Bill Verburg

Changing the R&P is akin to using shorter tires. Yes , it shortens the gearing but it does nothing to improve the main issue which is the spread between gears. It makes an already short 1st even shorter, moves 2 almost to where you would want 1, etc. Only 6 ends up[ close to where you would want it.

Martin S.

Bill's words are the gospel truth....I considered it, doing the R&P, but came to the4 same conclusion. Low will be too low and the spread between 2nd and 3rd will still be there. The R&P at $2,700, R&R at $1,000. I don't know how you would install a R&P without splitting the tranny case, and it will need to be adjusted, lash etc. you'll be out another $1,000.....before long the expense will creep toward $5,000. For maybe $8,000 on the cheap side to $10,000, you can get a close ration transmission built, install; steel synchros and other needed internals, and be GOLDEN. That's what I. did...the best modification $ for $, you can do. Feels like an extra 50 HP, and you are always near the Sweet Spot of the engine.

GTgears

GBX

thanks Matt! So you do you agree that gears are a better choice then R&P?

GTgears

Yep. Gearing is most definitely better. Quoting from an old Bill post, just look at those rpm drops on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. The challenge is always the cost of changing 2nd to a more optimum ratio since it requires changing the mainshaft. But you can still make significant gains by changing 3-4-5. Depending on where you track the car, you might even be able to do it without changing 6th gear at all. But that varies by region and personal needs.

Martin S.

If you plan on driving the car on the highway, and you have a somewhat limited budget, consider keeping stock 1st and 2nd and the stock mainsheet, , short gears from 3rd through 5th, and stock 6th gear. There are not that many tracks where you get into 6th gear....I had a close ratio 6th, and it just wan't fun on the highway....I often wished I had kept my stock 6th gear.

nine9six

I humbly disagree... If you have a limited budget, just leave things alone. Regearing is not for the faint of heart or shallow of pocket. However, Martin has much more experience with such matters...

If you're going to re-gear, do it right or don't do it at all. Also, put some money away for a Guard LSD or have Matt rebuild your OEM LSD, if you have one.

JMHO

Bill Verburg

Here's a comparison of a stock g50/20 a Cup/RSR g50/30 and a g50/20 w/ 8:32, the /30 is the gold standard

ilko

Also disagree, but for a different reason. The stock 6th is too tall, even on the highway. You're cruising at 2800rpm (77mph), you mash on the gas and NOTHING happens. How many times has that happened to you guys? It's ridiculous. There is no torque there. You just need to downshift. Additionally, if you leave the stock 6th you would have to compromise with the rest of your gears. So what's the point of regearing the transmission then?

I kept the stock 1st and 2nd, used shorter 3rd, 4th, and 5th from Guard, and an OEM 997 GT3 6th gear set and the car is perfect. The GT3 gear is a little taller than the stock 5th and works very well. And if you're on a budget you could potentially stick the stock 5th gear in 6th, MPG be damned. The car is a lot more fun to drive that way.

As far as the 8:32 R&P on a G50/20, it's far from ideal. 1st gear would be practically useless. The gap between 2nd and 3rd would still suck. The rest would be closer, which is good. And let's not forget reverse! Who likes to lunge backwards into a wall?

If you're spending all that money might as well do it right.

GTgears

There's a couple of ways to get to a solution for 6th. Stock is one. 5th in 6th is one. Or another model's stock 6spd gear.

If one wants to run a stockish 6th gear, it's really easy to come up with a 5th gear that falls somewhere between the stock 157mph and the 50/30RS 141mph. You put a .97 or 1.00 in 5th and fill in 3 and 4 from there. That will give you a box that goes to a tick or two under 150mph and usable on most any track you would want to drive without caging the car.

Jlaa

I totally agree. Nearly 4 years on and I am still extremely satisfied.
IMHO - if you are going to spend $$$$ messing with the gearbox, just spend the money for GT's new mainshaft with a 3.500 1st gear. A new mainshaft and new 2nd gear only represents about 30% of total project costs anyways, after accounting for all labor costs, including engine out costs. I paired it with a 2.294 2nd gear and a 1.65 3rd gear. For most of the driving I do (tight canyon roads), I'm mostly 2nd and 3rd anyways.... with a little bit of first. My main objective was to kill that ridiculous gap between 1st and 2nd. The gears are quite short and really make the car enjoyable to drive.

The photo below is from my archives and the chart is from our esteemed Bill V.

autobonrun

That is exactly what the PO did with my car. Changed 3rd,4th, and 5th then used the old 5th gear for 6th. I think primarily because the car is a 96 and 1st and 2nd are fixed on the shaft. I keep the original gearset submerged in gear oil; as it has been for about 13 years. He also put in a LWF.

Bill Verburg

That's not what Martin suggested at all
Something like this is what he suggested, keep 1,2 & 6 stock, adjust 3, 4, 5


this one also leaves 6 alone


this is a better version of the above




This is a typical move 5 to 6


I also like this one


And lastly /20 & /30 in one chart

autobonrun

I missed the part about keeping 6th gear stock. I can understand 1 and 2 if they're fixed on the main shaft, but don't know why you would leave 6th stock. I thought at one point about going back and changing the entire fixed shaft on mine with the fixed 1st and 2nd, but decided to live with it and use that money toward another car instead. The problem is the greatest benefit, in my opinion, is that 1, 2, 3 shift with new gears there.