ApexL8

Dave,
Those Kumhos should serve you quite well. Pressing a car to the point where one or both of the ends is slipping is a very satisfying and instructive experience.

It is much better to learn the techniques of pushing your car to the limit, then reining it back in with corrections at the slowest speed possible. Much better than going faster and faster on race tires until they finally break loose, and then trying to figure out what the appropriate correction should be.

I predict your eyes will be opened after your first track weekend. Even on street tires you will be able to experience cornering speeds and forces you wouldn't dare attempt on the street, and that is more fun than words can express.

Do one, two, or three weekends, then start shopping for dedicated track tires. See what other people are using, ask them how they like them for traction, feedback, and longevity, and then make the purchase.

dave993

Lots of good advice for the first time guys. As a 15 year SCCA reg,nat,pro driver, your first weekend should have alot of watching and listening. Listen to the experienced guys as far as car prep. Good advice on the brakes, but also keep an eye on the wheel torque.Keep an eye on your oil level. Watch the fast guys, but DO NOT try to run with them..you will end up falling off the track and sitting on the roof. Learn the proper line and shift points..the speed will come with seat time. Don't worry about being slow..everyone starts out slow. Also, listen and watch your instructor..there is a reason he is the instructor. As far as on the track, WATCH you mirrors..the faster drivers will be lapping you before you know it. Watch how fast they take the turns and over the season slowly work toward that. Remember to STAY ON THE RACING LINE when getting lapped..that way the overtaking driver will know where you are gonna be. Also, and its hard at first, is to drive the track..don't drive braking point to braking point(very common mistake). As far as helmets, spend whatever you think your head is worth. I hit the guardrail coming out of the inner loop at the Glen during a Grand American race at 120+ in a Swift S2000 SR car and the left front wheel hit me in the head still attached to the tub. If I would have had a cheap helmet, I would probably be eating from a straw. Have fun and keep the shiny side up.

Dave

Evan

Dave- Great info. Nice way to start off your first post!

STLPCA

Gerry
Either ATE 200 or ATE Super Blue are fine (same stuff other than blue dye). Best source I've found is FCP Groton (no affiliation). Your C4S takes between 1-2 cans, so buy 2 for each flush. I alternate blue/amber making it simple to tell when the old fluid is out.

Ditto on using street tires for, at least, your first few (or more) DEs.

New brake pad thicknesses are listed in the shop manual which is at home. Hopefully, someone will post it for you.

STLPCA

New front brake pads = 11mm
New rear brake pads = 12mm

Porsche's minimum is 2mm, although the wear sensors begin to get ground down at 2.5mm & should activate the warning light before 2mm.
You'll want to stay above 50% of pad material remaining for DEs.

Novice

25mm as in 25.4mm = 1 Inch ? I guess that is the thickness of the braking pad plus the metal backing.

Derrick B.

Something else I would recommend is the book "Going Faster!" by the guys at the Barber School of Racing. Outstanding source of "driver's education."

STLPCA

Gerry
Thanks for catching my error. I had a brain fart brought on by an evening of too much lobster & liquor & posted disc (rotor) thicknesses. I've edited my original post to the correct brake pad material thicknesses: 11mm (F) & 12mm (R).

Bill Gregory

There is an older list in the CVR DE documentation, in the back. A current list will be posted on the CVR website. Business's tend to charge for a technical inspection, and individual tech inspectors, who usually do the inspections at their homes, don't charge anything.
No, many people bleed their own brakes. If you do it correctly, you'll have a nice firm brake pedal.
Fairfield Country Motorsports in Fairfield and Speedsport Tuning in Norwalk are two that we see often at the track. They both have web sites, too.
Yes, we typically have more people who want to get into our events than we have space for, which is not unusual for PCA, BMW, Audi, and other marque clubs at the track. Longer tracks, like Watkins Glen, can support more cars on the track at a time, so those events usually have space. As a PCA member, you can also apply to drive with other PCA regions drivers education programs.

Tom T.

Dan (or anyone else),

Tried a search w/o getting an answer. I'd like to know the new rotor thickness for the front & rear rotors for a 1995 993. Can someone please post it.
TIA,
Tom

Robert Henriksen

I don't know, but if you don't get an answer right away I'm sure you could just call your dealer.

Novice

For 993 Carrera and Carrera S
Front 30.6 wear limit 30mm
Rear 22.6 wear limit=22mm
Thickness tolerance of brake disc, max. 0.02 mm

STLPCA

Tom/Novice
My shop manual lists:
New front rotor = 32mm
New rear rotor = 24mm

ScottMellor

At our DE last week at the Streets Of Willow, Mark Hergesheimer recommended that pads be replaced on a tracked car when they get to just under 1/2 of original thickness. This is because the pads will be subject to far greater heat stress on the track than they ever will be on the street, and a thin pad, which is technically within factory specs, will transfer too much heat to your brake fluid. It's kind of a cost of doing business when tracking your car.
I believe Anir reported a loss of brakes once due to this happening.

BrokeAss

....another little tip for you.
If possible, see if you can find an in-car video shot at that track on the Internet. It's a good way to help you orient yourself with a new track.

....oh yeah, and it's a great to waste time when you're supposed to be running a business!