AC Re-charge
#16
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#17
Burning Brakes
Great timing on this thread! I have been trying to tackle this project too but when I went to buy recharge supplies (Canada) I can only buy 12a. They do not sell 134a in stores here???? Can I use Red Tec 12A or will that mess me up? If not, who is buying the 12A since that is all they sell with every recharge kit here.
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It's not you, it's Canada. In US, 134A is readily available anywhere including Walmart, where it starts at #4,88 per 12 Oz cans, That's 354.88 ml for you Canadian folks. If you are in Toronto, I'm sue it cam be smuggled in from Buffalo.
Though.., Canadian Amazon shows availability as well: .
Though.., Canadian Amazon shows availability as well: .
#20
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by nile13
It's not you, it's Canada. In US, 134A is readily available anywhere including Walmart, where it starts at #4,88 per 12 Oz cans, That's 354.88 ml for you Canadian folks. If you are in Toronto, I'm sue it cam be smuggled in from Buffalo.
Though.., Canadian Amazon shows availability as well: .
Though.., Canadian Amazon shows availability as well: .
#22
Pro
Thread Starter
Well, as luck would have it my re-charge lasted a day or two, so definitely have a leak somewhere. It worked great after the fill so it appears that the leak is the only issue. Any guidance as to where leaks are most likely to occur and is there troubleshooting procedure for finding them? Has anyone used the refrigerant with dye for tracking down leaks?
#23
There is always a leak when you have to do an AC recharge. You have a few options here. The best way is to use dye or some other method to accurately pinpoint the leak, then fix the culprit and do a recharge. You can also change out the O-rings, recharge again and see if that fixes it. I would personally try to O-ring option because it's good to change them anyway and it's cheap to recharge the system. If it doesn't work, you at least have new O-rings and did not waste a lot of money and time.
#24
Rennlist Member
The simplest and easiest to diagnose and access would be the port valves. Use some leak detection solution or liquid detergent. Check these first before going to the trouble of evacuating and charging the system because, if one's faulty, you'll have to bleed off the system to change it out. Keep in mid that the valve cores are not conventional. You won't find them at your local parts store. They're Porsche-specific.
#25
Pro
Thread Starter
I'm ok with doing "easily accessible" DIY, such as injected dye and looking around the engine compartment. Anything beyond that and I'll probably take it to a shop. The 2 suggestions below are the kind of DIY I was looking to try.
Where are the o-rings located?
- Where are the port valves located?
There is always a leak when you have to do an AC recharge. You have a few options here. The best way is to use dye or some other method to accurately pinpoint the leak, then fix the culprit and do a recharge. You can also change out the O-rings, recharge again and see if that fixes it. I would personally try to O-ring option because it's good to change them anyway and it's cheap to recharge the system. If it doesn't work, you at least have new O-rings and did not waste a lot of money and time.
The simplest and easiest to diagnose and access would be the port valves. Use some leak detection solution or liquid detergent. Check these first before going to the trouble of evacuating and charging the system because, if one's faulty, you'll have to bleed off the system to change it out. Keep in mid that the valve cores are not conventional. You won't find them at your local parts store. They're Porsche-specific.
#27
I'm ok with doing "easily accessible" DIY, such as injected dye and looking around the engine compartment. Anything beyond that and I'll probably take it to a shop. The 2 suggestions below are the kind of DIY I was looking to try.
Where are the o-rings located?
- Where are the port valves located?
Where are the o-rings located?
- Where are the port valves located?
#28
Rennlist Member
Agreed as even with the dye, there are places you can't confirm with it - which happened to me through the dealer on the first try..........I had same experience of a short time fix, a few days only and had my evaporator, expansion valve and other key parts replaced.....labor was around half the bill from dealer......around $ 2K........no problem now for the last year.............basically I have a new system for what parts I replaced, etc.....heck, it is a 23 year old car and first time I messed with the AC........it was super cool all these years until the repair..........
#29
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The most common weak spot of the 993 A/C is the evaporator buried between the gas tank and dash. The unit is hard to see, much verify that it's leaking due to it's hidden location. If you do end up injecting dye, you can check the water drain location under the car to see if there's dye there. If you do find some dye there, there's a high probability you've found your leak!
My A/C was fixed by replacing the evaporator with the Griffiths unit many moons ago. It was working super afterwards. Fast forward 3 years later, no A/C again. WTF? It turns out the expansion valve was defective, stress cracks around the orifices. Griffiths was super supportive and was able to send me a replacement valve pronto and might add, at no cost. Reinstalled with new o-rings and presto, it held vacuum once again. Recharged it again and so far, after 3 more years, it's been working just as good as ever.
My A/C was fixed by replacing the evaporator with the Griffiths unit many moons ago. It was working super afterwards. Fast forward 3 years later, no A/C again. WTF? It turns out the expansion valve was defective, stress cracks around the orifices. Griffiths was super supportive and was able to send me a replacement valve pronto and might add, at no cost. Reinstalled with new o-rings and presto, it held vacuum once again. Recharged it again and so far, after 3 more years, it's been working just as good as ever.
#30
Pro
Thread Starter
No offense, but am recommending that you take it to a shop instead of any kind of DIY as you don't appear to be experienced enough with AC systems at this point to tackle this safely and/or without doing significant damage to the AC system or the vehicle. Leave it all to a pro. Learning about AC the hard way isn't where you want to be.