NEED HELP W/ STRUT BRACE INSTALL.
#1
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I bought a Rennline strut brace and no instructions were included. I know it should be very very very easy. I just want to make sure it's on right. I attached it to the lower (towards the front of the car) two bolts. It is very low blocking the pouch in the front. Also I have one stripped bolt on the passengers side how hard is this to fix. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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#2
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Sounds like you have mounted it properly, except for the stripped bolt part.....
I don't know if the Rennline brace is adjustable, but ideally you would put just little bit of outward preload on the brace. My AJ-USA brace instructions said to turn the brace until it starts to tighten up, then 1/2 turn further.
As for the strippied stud, I myself don't know if that is an easily replaceable part, but when I did the same thing to my 964, there was enough of the stud sticking up above the nut that I could thread a second nut down on top of it, where it engaged threads that were still good.
My strut brace sits just in front of the pouch, but there is still room for my extra belts and spare parts.
Chip
I don't know if the Rennline brace is adjustable, but ideally you would put just little bit of outward preload on the brace. My AJ-USA brace instructions said to turn the brace until it starts to tighten up, then 1/2 turn further.
As for the strippied stud, I myself don't know if that is an easily replaceable part, but when I did the same thing to my 964, there was enough of the stud sticking up above the nut that I could thread a second nut down on top of it, where it engaged threads that were still good.
My strut brace sits just in front of the pouch, but there is still room for my extra belts and spare parts.
Chip
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Mike in Chi:
<strong>Use under 20 lbs torque. I think I have mine at 18.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Mine is at the shop manual rec of 30'#, but heeding warnings I tightened in steps: 15-20-25-30.
GTR
I just sold my Rennline bar last month (& replaced it w/a Brey Kraus). Too bad I didn't know you were interested, I had offered it to Brad for $100 before selling it on eBay for $145+S&H. If the Rennline is mounted above the carpet it blocks access to the pocket, or it fits fine under the carpet.
<strong>Use under 20 lbs torque. I think I have mine at 18.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Mine is at the shop manual rec of 30'#, but heeding warnings I tightened in steps: 15-20-25-30.
GTR
I just sold my Rennline bar last month (& replaced it w/a Brey Kraus). Too bad I didn't know you were interested, I had offered it to Brad for $100 before selling it on eBay for $145+S&H. If the Rennline is mounted above the carpet it blocks access to the pocket, or it fits fine under the carpet.
#6
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GTR--I stripped the same bolt, even trying for 15 lb ft. No warning, just pop! What a PITA.
You can knock the remainder of the bolt out from the top (into the wheel well) and slide a new one in from the bottom. 5 minute repair.
My factor piece fits under the carpet.
You can knock the remainder of the bolt out from the top (into the wheel well) and slide a new one in from the bottom. 5 minute repair.
My factor piece fits under the carpet.
#7
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I bought this one on Ebay for $150.00 I wish I would have seen your sale listing. The rennline bar has two nuts that are at the end of the eye hook that is attached to the mounting bracket. Do the nuts go next to the bar or next to the eye hook? If you can even understand what I am saying. The eye hooks are the bolts that are threaded to the bar. There is a nut right at the end of the eye hook should it be there or at the end of the bar?
I'm confusing myself now. If you know what I am saying then post back. If not call the funny farm for me. Thanks
I'm confusing myself now. If you know what I am saying then post back. If not call the funny farm for me. Thanks
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#8
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Thanks believe it or not I'm an engineer! <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" /> you would think I could figure that out. I guess cars and development are a little different. <img border="0" alt="[icon107]" title="" src="graemlins/icon107.gif" />
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GTR993,
I just installed a Brey-Krause Strut Tower Brace myself. You should attach the two bracket to the strut towers being careful not to over torque the nuts. I used 18 ft-lbs and did not have a problem. You then adjust the rod ends (eye bolts at either end) so that the attachment bolts can slide easily thru the btackets and thru the hole in the rod ends attached at both ends of the brace. Note: One rod end will be left hand thread and one will be standard right hand thread. This is what makes the rod ends either spread apart or pull together depnding upon which way you rotate the bar. Rotate the bar until there is no slop in the brace and brackets and rotate just 1/2 turn more to pre-load the brace against the strut towers. Now use the hex nuts to lock the brace in position.
I just installed a Brey-Krause Strut Tower Brace myself. You should attach the two bracket to the strut towers being careful not to over torque the nuts. I used 18 ft-lbs and did not have a problem. You then adjust the rod ends (eye bolts at either end) so that the attachment bolts can slide easily thru the btackets and thru the hole in the rod ends attached at both ends of the brace. Note: One rod end will be left hand thread and one will be standard right hand thread. This is what makes the rod ends either spread apart or pull together depnding upon which way you rotate the bar. Rotate the bar until there is no slop in the brace and brackets and rotate just 1/2 turn more to pre-load the brace against the strut towers. Now use the hex nuts to lock the brace in position.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Kristoffer:
<strong>Dan why did you change to Brey Kraus?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">I installed the Rennline during my 1st season of DEs. It's an aluminum bar & I found it is not as rigid as the stainless B-K, i.e., it will flex a bit if you pull on the bar. I'm not sure that matters since the movement it controls is side to side, not front to rear, but as I'm getting faster & approaching limits & with my new suspension, my gut feeling was a more rigid bar is better. I could be wrong.
The B-K also looks better IMO.
<strong>Dan why did you change to Brey Kraus?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">I installed the Rennline during my 1st season of DEs. It's an aluminum bar & I found it is not as rigid as the stainless B-K, i.e., it will flex a bit if you pull on the bar. I'm not sure that matters since the movement it controls is side to side, not front to rear, but as I'm getting faster & approaching limits & with my new suspension, my gut feeling was a more rigid bar is better. I could be wrong.
The B-K also looks better IMO.
#12
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I imagine the Rennline bar is probably just fine, since the force a strut bar experiences is in compression. A fatter bar would resist the bending of off-axis forces better, but I suspect that isn't important when bracing strut towers.
I bought the AJ-USA strut brace, which is pretty beefy and looks good too. Plus the price extended to Rennlist members over xmas was too good to pass up!
Chip
I bought the AJ-USA strut brace, which is pretty beefy and looks good too. Plus the price extended to Rennlist members over xmas was too good to pass up!
Chip