I am planning to bleed my brakes for the first time this weekend and I think I should do the clutch while I am at it. Should I do this last? Does anyone have a good description the clutch valve location? (I have not looked for it yet). I have read the p-car diy.... seems simple.. thats what scares me. I have done it on my bmw so I hope it similar. I don't think my bmw had two bleed valves. Can I just hook up tubing to both the valves and have both bleed individually into a bottle? (no "tee" device) . If I use a pressure bleeder do I have to do any pumping at all? The pelican parts DIY seems pretty screwy with a complete bleed with a pressure bleeder then a pumping routine as you open all the valves up again.

Thanks in advance for any additional tips.

 

The clutch bleed valve is on top of the transmission, just about over the driveshafts. Access is greatly improved if you remove the driver's side hot air tube. Don't know what you mean by two bleed valves -- there is only one. Pressure bleeder = no pumping. I highly recommend the Motive pressure bleeder. Fantastic value.

Chris.

 

You should not (probably can't) bleed both brake valves at the same time. I can't remember the bleeder valve sequence, but do know you start with RR, LR, RF, LF. Do clutch last. Bleeder valve is at the end of the slave cylinder, which sits on top of the bell housing. It's bit of a contortionist act to get to it. I usually do it on a lift, which makes it a lot better. You probably need someone to hold a light for you. You'll be amazed by the disgusting goop that comes out of the slave, if you don't bleed it regularly.

 

The easiest way to find the clutch slave cylinder is on the drivers side of the tranaxle. You will see a hose/line coming over from the frame going onto the top of the transaxle at about the same point or a little in front of the drive axles. Feel your way up there. The line ends at the slave cylinder. The bleeder is facing the front and has a small rubber nipple on it. Remove the nipple insert 7mm wrench (as I recall) and then insert small tube onto the fitting and you are set to go.

I do the pump method BTW. Never personally liked the power bleeders.

 

Hi Joel,

It's pretty simple - as noted - the bleed valve (there is only one) is located on top of the tranny - drivers side... I also found it easier to get to by jacking up the entire rear fairly high and use jack stands. Also - remove the RR wheel. I didn't remove the air tube, even when installing a new slave. However - you'll also want a good light source (like an 8" florescent drop light).

Bleed tube length - the longer the better. And since you can really only get one hand up there at a time, you'll be retightening the nipple with a small wrench while leaving the tube on (while tuning the nipple to close) - so a tight fitting bleed hose to the nipple is a must.

Hope this helps!
(Edit - wow - you guys are FAST!!! I started typing with ONE reply - and when I posted there are 2 more!!! I have to type faster - or post less!! )

 

Joel
Rick's bleed sequence is correct, adding that for each corner it's outside, then inside valve. Although I follow the same sequence for a flush out of habit, no sequence is necessary for a flush per the shop manual. With a pressure bleeder (e.g., Motive) you can do both out & in at the same time w/ or w/o a "T," although for a bleed v. a flush I've found little time savings. I've also found the slave bleed valve to be a pita due to location & limited working area. Perhaps this (obviously removed) slave cylinder pic will help: