Help with checking 993 3.6L cam timing
#31
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After retiming the cams and getting the motor reinstalled, I've tried starting up the car. It does feel much smoother and eager to start compared to before.
i didn't want to go too far past my comfort level with stand alone engine management so waiting for a weekend for some friends to come by and help me setup a tune that'll allow me to get it to a dyno.
Here's a video of it running for about 10 seconds
i didn't want to go too far past my comfort level with stand alone engine management so waiting for a weekend for some friends to come by and help me setup a tune that'll allow me to get it to a dyno.
Here's a video of it running for about 10 seconds
Last edited by rogerkamp8817; 04-02-2018 at 06:54 PM.
#34
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i'm making progress.
I got it running good enough for the 2000 RPM 20 min breakin. Here's my 20 min break in video. Hitting target AFR during this run.
Here's my AEM session/log file from the same session: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ctjd8ctqh9...io%29.zip?dl=0
Working on dialing in the idle now. I have it set at a high idle for now until I get the settings and tuning right to control the idle air control valve. I did a "dry run" with the motor off and forced the IACV to open/close within the AEM software last night. Next step is to confirm it still works with the engine running and to find the % opening (idle position %) of the IACV that matches the target idle RPM.
Waiting on oil and filter to show up tomorrow before i go much further with the idle tuning.
I got it running good enough for the 2000 RPM 20 min breakin. Here's my 20 min break in video. Hitting target AFR during this run.
Here's my AEM session/log file from the same session: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ctjd8ctqh9...io%29.zip?dl=0
Working on dialing in the idle now. I have it set at a high idle for now until I get the settings and tuning right to control the idle air control valve. I did a "dry run" with the motor off and forced the IACV to open/close within the AEM software last night. Next step is to confirm it still works with the engine running and to find the % opening (idle position %) of the IACV that matches the target idle RPM.
Waiting on oil and filter to show up tomorrow before i go much further with the idle tuning.
#35
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sounds good, still hear a little popping. mine with the electromotive set up I took and pluged the idle control port and set the idle with the screw on the throttle body and than hooked everything back up. my car was stalling on decell because I have the rs flywheel set up. This is what they wanted me to do and it worked. my system has a self tune setting so last saturday I went out and tried that it it helped. I'm tuning it on the street. I'm just dealing with bad weather here. Richard from clewett engineering tunes my car remotely to get it to run at the point I'm at.
#37
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Thanks!
I ran into an engine run-on issue so sorting that out. Scary experience when the motor keeps going even after pulling the key out of the ignition switch. I found some info on pelican about this issue and installing a diode behind the tach (blue wire) oriented a certain way which should fix this issue.
I have some new wallwetting settings to try that should help stabilize the AFR.
Lastly, another big hurdle right now is tuning the idle using the IACV. With some help, I got it opening/closing as it should based on what % opening I set it to within the software. However, it seems like something is happening in the software that's disabling lambdafeedback when the IACV kicks on. This causes the actual AFR to creep away from target AFR. Perhaps the old wallwetting settings were so far out of wack and using the new wallwetting settings will correct this.
Thought the ECU tuning would go a lot faster. Learning as I go so it's taking quite a bit of time. Anxious to drive her on the road!
I ran into an engine run-on issue so sorting that out. Scary experience when the motor keeps going even after pulling the key out of the ignition switch. I found some info on pelican about this issue and installing a diode behind the tach (blue wire) oriented a certain way which should fix this issue.
I have some new wallwetting settings to try that should help stabilize the AFR.
Lastly, another big hurdle right now is tuning the idle using the IACV. With some help, I got it opening/closing as it should based on what % opening I set it to within the software. However, it seems like something is happening in the software that's disabling lambdafeedback when the IACV kicks on. This causes the actual AFR to creep away from target AFR. Perhaps the old wallwetting settings were so far out of wack and using the new wallwetting settings will correct this.
Thought the ECU tuning would go a lot faster. Learning as I go so it's taking quite a bit of time. Anxious to drive her on the road!
#38
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and I'm like you I thought the tuning part would be easy. he weather here is just been so crappy I haven't been able to it out. tomorrow looks better and now I kind of know what I'm doing with the software.
#40
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that's good! i wish i was at that point.
i got mind idling better today but still far from streetable. Seems like some injector setting or fuel map is off such that the actual AFR takes 20-30 seconds to return back to target AFR.
i got mind idling better today but still far from streetable. Seems like some injector setting or fuel map is off such that the actual AFR takes 20-30 seconds to return back to target AFR.
#41
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I got the car street tuned, roughly.
Does anyone know what the factory 993 ignition advance map should be?
Or have standalone 993 ignition map I can also review?
Mainly looking for a baseline to work from.
Thanks!
Does anyone know what the factory 993 ignition advance map should be?
Or have standalone 993 ignition map I can also review?
Mainly looking for a baseline to work from.
Thanks!