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Mine came with a LWFW when I purchased it. As mentioned, throttle response is great. I noticed a noticeable reduction in rattling at idle after my trans was rebuilt. Starting on a steep hill can be real challenge. You loose a lot of rotational inertia compared to a stock FW.
All I know is the dual mass flywheel was good enough for the 993RS with a 3.8 and about 300 HP. The RS Club Sport got the LWF.
I noticed the gear rattling noise at idle at a stop light...goes away when you depress the clutch. I didn't like this rattling noise...my neighbor with a 97 Carrera did the same mod, he regrets it.
Does the engine spin up faster? It should as it is lighter than the dual mass. In identically prepared 993 cars, and competent drivers, will the car with the LWF win a drag race?
Would I do the LWF and RS clutch mod again, were that opportunity to arise? No...I think the LWF is 20% real and 80% hype. Be honest here, there is not much you can do to increase the power and responsiveness of
a 993...282 HP out of 3.6 L. is pretty good. BTW, the 2004 GT3 has a dual mass flywheel...I luckily have one off these cars and I am leaving the clutch alone.
I echo the comments above as I've had it on my '96 4S for over 10 yrs now and have never had any stalling issues. My noise experience is more like Tlaloc75's in that it's just a barely audible clatter at idle. Now does it increase hp? Don't think so. Does it accelerate faster? It definitely spools up the rpm band faster and it feels faster per my butt-o-meter so it adds to the fun factor which is what matters to me at the end of the day.
No complaints, never any "rocks in cans" sounds, and no regrets. You get used to it quickly, and the only detriment would be the addition of a higher clamping PP, which would lead to more pedal effort. Still only a nominal penalty, at that.
Have my LWF supercup clutch for app. 5 years now incl. Steve Weiner chip. Absolutely love everything about it. Even the gear chatter and shake when engine and gearbox are hot is very unique and adds to the soul of the car.
I get some funny looks sometimes from pedestrians at a red light and every once in a while, an expert will give you the thumbs up.
No cons to report really, no stalling or other issues. Seems that the engine revs easier in the higher rpm range.
Acceleration should be faster when rotational masses are reduced. I have no measured comparison from before.
My heel and toe needed to be adjusted. I consistently kept revving too high after the switch. I still do that from time to time with no explanation why.
All in all, I'd do it again and I drive a cab.
Personally, I'm a big fan of the RS LWF package, but its certainly not for everyone and I carefully vet all my clients when they ask about that option. We take the time to thoroughly discuss all the pros & cons of the LWF and what that means for street use so that nobody gets "ambushed" by the noise, clutch engagement point, and reduction in rotational inertia.
After 25 years of using these things, I've only reinstalled a DMF once ('95 993) due to a client's spouse who couldn't adapt to it.
Questions- an earlier note mentioned installing a LWF after a failing DMF. How does one know there is failure?
Steve and others- what happened to the mid-weight option, apparently incorporating the best of both?
I forgot to mention the rattling as a con. Honestly, I do not even notice it, hence the oversight. Everyone is a little different and has different tolerance levels. My driving is not typically stop light to stoplight, so I am at idle infrequently. spot on as others have suggested, you need to account for your own individual driving and desires. best advice is to drive a car with one and test it out for yourself.
Questions- an earlier note mentioned installing a LWF after a failing DMF. How does one know there is failure?
Steve and others- what happened to the mid-weight option, apparently incorporating the best of both?
I had rattling at idle (similar to a LWF actually) that went away with the clutch depressed. Also could hear it at shutdown, a final rattle as the engine cut out. The other symptom was an occasional clunk when starting out in first gear - the DMF was loose enough that it would slip and clunk on that initial acceleration.
Questions- an earlier note mentioned installing a LWF after a failing DMF. How does one know there is failure?
Steve and others- what happened to the mid-weight option, apparently incorporating the best of both?
Hi Fred,
Symptoms of a failing DMF include noise, slack in the clutch engagement point, DME random misfires to name a few.
The MWF kits were delayed due to my workload, however these WILL be available in the Spring.
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Hi Fred,
Symptoms of a failing DMF include noise, slack in the clutch engagement point, DME random misfires to name a few.
The MWF kits were delayed due to my workload, however these WILL be available in the Spring.
Interestingly, I did not have any misfires or fault codes, nor did the clutch feel slack. It was pretty worn, so I could feel that, but the DMF failure was only noticeable as noise, in my case. Once out, it had clearly failed.
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