Removing rear eccentric bolt on toe arm advice please
 

Probably should have titled the thread, silly little questions about suspension, as I'm sure this won't be the last.

Working on removing the strut as the first part of the rear upgrades. This is the left side. Have trouble getting the eccentric bolt past the heat exchanger. Obviously don't want to remove that.

Removed cross member bolts hoping it might drop a bit and allow me to get the bolt out. No luck. Do I need to drop the other side of the cross member as well? Or is there some other secret? I'd prefer to stick with one side at a time if possible.

http://www.safecustody.com/cars/993-...rm-removal.jpg

You need to put a jack under the engine case and raise the motor slightly. Eventually you'll get enough space to get the toe link bolt out.

Detailed in step 5 here
https://p-car.com/diy/sus/rear/rearsus.htm

Thank you! P-car and Jackals Forge are my go to sites for information and I missed that one. Out in less than two minutes. Should have posted here yesterday.

been there

There is great tip by @Tlaloc75, if you flip the bolt 180 degrees where you insert the bolt from the front of the car and put the lock nut on the rear of the car you no longer need to jack the engine to remove it. Great hack. I had to remove that damn bolt 5 times (and jack the car 5 times) trying to get my PSS10 drop link perch height correct so my ARB would not touch the toe arm. In retrospect should have gone with adjustable drop links.

Here is my PSS10 install... starting on a rear suspension arms refresh next.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...993-coupe.html