Bill Verburg

This is a stock RS KT eccentric, the eccentrics Elephant has are eccentric bushes that allow for a greater range of adjustment as does the RS eccentric vs stock


Here are some pics that Cupcar took comparing stock and RS KT eccentrics




When using turnbuckle arms these eccentrics are eliminated and locks are used
lock seen here
[img]https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads26/IMG_33661509742454.JPG[img]

MarinS4

I guess everyone has a different opinion of where that "street" line is. I agree most of the RS bits are ideal for street. Where I took a slightly different path was the top hats (stock 993), solid sub frame mounts (roll center correction) and Poly front LCA (less braking squirm).

I spent the last two years traveling around the country flipping homes. I painted the corners of the USA and several states in between. What I would want in Florida is completely different than what I have for NorCal twisties. Same is true for Hawaii. The worst seemed to be Massachusetts. I would keep all the rubber stuff in that state!

Just something to keep in mind as we search for the ideal setup. Person preference and geography play a BIG role.

Tlaloc75

Bill, here is what I'm talking about from ER: https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...g-kit-for-993/

Regarding eccentrics, I replaced my KT eccentrics with new stock parts since the old ones were starting to round out on the adjacent hole. Maybe I should have put RS eccentrics in but wasn't sure if I needed any other changes to get them to fit. Are there any other eccentrics that are RS specific or just KT?

My alignment is where I want it, so I guess I'm fine as is!

Tlaloc75

This is a very good point and something I tend to forget.

When I lived in Washington I was ok with a very stiff setup, the roads are smooth, well cared for and very twisty. In Montana the roads have far more lumps and bumps, frost-heaves and neglect. Not too many sharp edges, like a potholed city street, but lots of undulations.

My setup is optimized for more compliance to suit these conditions.

Bill Verburg

That's the thing the solid subframe mounts only correct bump steer when the car is lowered below RS height, when used at stock height they make it worse.

poly's main attribute as a control arm bush is, it's cheap. If that"s your main concern, great.

MarinS4

When I installed the solid subframe kit I measured 8-10mm difference. To me means same geometry as stock when lowered 10mm from stock. I am even lower (between RS & ROW) than that so IMHO it's a good thing

I never measured rear toe bump curve. It would be interesting to know more of what's going on back there with the solid mounts and new lower KT settings. I've been taught to raise roll center when lowering cars (when possible) to maintain proper geometry. Given all the ride height variations of the factory 993's it would be great to know what ride height the subframe was optimized for. We all assume it was stock ROW. The front bump curves say otherwise.

Whatever the case your legacy threads helped guide me down the path. The front toe curves were especially eye opening. It helped push me into RS wheel carriers. One of the best mods I've done to improve handling. I feel the rear solid mounts did the same for the rear.

MarinS4

I'll take that one step further. Not only is road surface quality a consideration but types of roads. My Pacific Coast Hwy 1 play ground is very track like. Many banked curves and elevation changes. I can't imagine finding stuff like that in Florida.