When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My '95 C4 has started to make a squealing noise. Initially, it occurred when I was downshifting and let out the clutch, and upon startup.
I originally thought the pilot bearing was to blame, but now I'm not so sure...The car will also make the squealing sound (but not nearly as long or loud) when I start the car up (i.e., clutch in, foot on brake). The noise is at its worst when releasing the clutch after downshifting into a turn.
Has anyone experience this noise? I'm still hoping it's not the pilot bearing (but if it is, I guess I'lll go ahead with a LWF upgrade).
A loose belt is also my guess. It'll be worse in cold weather, eventually glaze & break the belt. BTW, if you match revs well for your downshifts I'll bet you'll have less squeal.
Bob-
All belts were just replaced 750 miles ago, and after a quick check, they look nice and tight...now I'm getting nervous.
I thought it could be a squeaky fan belt roller, but the car makes the noise (1) on startup and (2) when letting the clutch out after downshifting into a turn. It goes away if I push the clutch back in right away.
I guess I could lubricate the roller and see if it makes a difference. But then again, the car is going to my mechanic tomorrow and I'll let him figure it out. I'm trying to get some idea in the meantime what the various sources of the squealing could be. The fact that it goes away when I push the clutch back in doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling that an inexpensive fix is in my future!
Just to make sure - while the engine is running, open the engine lid and blip the engine by hand several times. Persojnally, I'm with the others in feeling it's a belt. Could have loosened with mileage because wasn't installed tight enuf.
I've had this same thing happen 3 times (or is it four) in a row! Definitely the belt (mine was the alternator belt). At one point it actually filled the car up with smoke and shortly afterwards the battery went falt leaving me stranded on the M25!
Get a new one and make sure it's a little tighter. My own doesn't make a peep now.
When a belt is loose it will generally squeal under load when the RPMS increase rapidly. So when at start up you go from 0-1500-850 and they squeal. When you down shift and let out the clutch the RPMS rise very fast. Under normal driving / accelerating a lot of time if they are not too loose, they may not squeal.
If the belt roller squeals, it generally squeals all the time and usually get worse with more RPMS. That is why your description sounds more like a belt tension issue. Hopefully you have an honest mechanic. Otherwise he may replace the belt roller for bigger $$$s, when it may only need a shim removed on one of the belts.
You're right Bob, I hope my mechanic is honest. It's a local independent shop that I have done business with before so maybe a relationship is worth something. If they come back and suggest that the problem is an expensive fix, I will bring it to the dealer for a second look.
If history is any guide, they should do ok by me. The shop that conducted the PPI in another state urged me to let them fix an axle seal leak (and perform the 60k service to boot). I held off and the local shop where the car is now said that the leak is very minor and doesn't warrant a fix at this time. Although the fix to the seal would cost only $300, they earned more than that in good will.
My independent just called and said that the alternator belt and fan belt was a little loose and one of them was slightly glazed. In his opinion, that was the cause of the squeal and the fix is minimal $$$. To be sure, they are going to replace the belts anyway.
They test drove the car and thought the clutch was fine. I guess the LWF will have to wait another day. Thanks for all your advice, it was dead on.
It's funny you mention that...I had prepped my wife for a $3,000 repair (heck, if they have to drop the engine and take the transmission out to replace the pilot bearing, they might as well install a LWF and clutch assembly!). She was surprisingly supportive. I think her words were "If you have to fix it, you might as well fix everything."
But now I can't justify the expense if a fix isn't needed in the first place. Maybe I'll just chip the car instead (and still be $2,500 to the good)....
Talos Takes Your 991 Porsche 911 GT3 to the Next Level for a Cool $1.13 Million
Slideshow: Talos Vehicles has transformed the Porsche 911 GT3 RS into a carbon-bodied, race-inspired machine that costs well over $1 million before the donor car is even included.
9 Vehicles Porsche Helped Engineer that Aren't Porsches
Slideshow: Long before engineering consulting became trendy, Porsche was quietly helping other automakers build everything from supercars to economy hatchbacks.
9 Features and Characteristics That Only Porsche People Understand
Slideshow: Some brands build cars. Porsche builds traditions, obsessions, and a few habits that stopped making sense decades ago but somehow became part of the charm.
This Builder Is Turning Heads With Its Slantnose 911 Creation
Slideshow: A small Polish tuner has reimagined the Porsche 911 Slantnose for the modern era, blending 1980s nostalgia with widebody tuning culture and serious performance upgrades.
Porsche 911 GT3 Artisan Edition Pays Homage to Japanese Culture
Slideshow: Porsche has created a Japan-only 911 GT3 Artisan Edition that blends track-ready hardware with design cues inspired by traditional Japanese craftsmanship.
Porsche Reveals Coupe Variant of the Electric Cayenne With a Fresh Look
Slideshow: Porsche's latest electric Cayenne Coupe blends dramatic styling with supercar acceleration, turning the brand's midsize SUV into a 1,139-horsepower flagship.