Chris L

When I bought my '95 993 in September with 41k miles it wasn't very pleasant to drive. The clutch was very difficult to use, and driving in traffic was not fun at all. I even stalled it out a few times. It was suffering from the hanging clutch problem.

So -- I replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders and installed the updated kinematic lever. Big improvement. The clutch now has a very smooth feel to it, but there still wasn't a lot of travel between on and off. So in general the car was much nicer to drive, but I got the feeling it could be better. Since one of the signs of a worn clutch is reduced travel, I wanted to take a look at it.

After removing the tranny, I found that the critical clutch disk measurement was 0.5 mm (more than the 0.3 mm wear limit) so there was still some life left. But now that it's out, I'll definitely replace the disk.

The flywheel and pressure plate surfaces look good, but have an odd coloring to them. I've attached a picture of the flywheel surface -- what do you think? Also, are there any other tests I can do on the pressure plate and throwout bearing to see if they're okay?

Chris.

Chris L

And here's the pressure plate:

chris walrod

There is definitely some hot spots, but they are quite normal for a used clutch. I guess the phrase "while your in there" applies here. Since your replacing the clutch disk, I hear RS flywheel kit in the background....

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Chris:

LOL,..I'd agree with Chris (Walrod),.....a previous owner was not nice to it.

The lightweight RS flywheel & clutch setup makes a big difference in performance and is more durable although you will need to modify the Idle Stabilizer to help prevent some potential stalling.

viperbob

I just replaced mine last a couple of days ago with the LWF. Hard to tell if it makes a difference on my car. Stuff happened too fast before... Only my lap times will tell.

My stock clutch also had similar hot spots on it, and was riding high on the pedal before the swap....

L23FPorsche

Their are some hot spots on the flywheel and pressure plate but nothing that would concern me too much. I changed my flywheel, disc and pp to the mid-weight Andial unit. Love It! An absolute must though is to replace the rear main seal. Oh and yes of course the T/O bearing. Don't even think about bolting everything up without taking these steps. These 911 engines tend to be a bit harder on seals with all the added heat. My .02 worth.

JasonAndreas

Does this reduce potential HP at WOT because the engine/dme has no idea about the (new) extra air?

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Jason:

Oh no,.........the ISV merely controls idle speed by bypassing a tiny bit of air only when the throttle plate is closed.

GeoT3

Chris L,
How hard was the tranny to remove. Were there any tricky bolts/nuts to get to?

Also, while you are there you may want to replace the pilot bearing and check the oil pressure sending unit for leaks and power steering belt for cracks.

TIA,

George

Chris L

George,

Well, it's not easy. Princeton Wong did a great diy post that I followed. The most difficult bolts/nuts are the top starter mounting nut and the release fork shaft retainer bolt (and rubber plug). All-in-all it's very doable, you just need to be patient. Also, you need to have a good transmission jack.

I'll post more when I have it back in.

Chris.

GeoT3

Chris,

Thanks for the info.

George