Lithium battery dead
https://rennlist.com/forums/992/1502...ger-issue.html
please update this thread if you are able to open the frunk and reset the lithium bms lockout and what you used to do so. Thanks.
Last edited by Silver911t; Feb 15, 2026 at 04:55 PM.
As many have mentioned, you can pop the frunk using a jump starter or a well-charged motorcycle/car battery by connecting to the red bus in the fuse panel and a good ground. Often youll also need to use the key fob rather than the interior switch. The issue is that this method does not always work reliably.
Common reasons:
- The jump starter may not be fully charged or powerful enough
- The ground connection may not be solid
- And as we found in testing, the wiring through the fuse panel is thin gauge and does not transfer voltage/current as efficiently as youd expect
So while it can work, its not the most dependable solution.
A More Reliable Method....
Back in 2020, after I locked myself out of my GT3RS, we designed a better solution. Its a simple wiring kit that connects directly to the vehicles battery and routes to the passenger-side frunk/windshield junction. If your battery ever goes completely dead, you simply plug in our Antigravity MICRO-START XP-20 (takes about one second), and you can immediately power the car open the frunk or start the vehicle. We call it the Clampless Harness Kit because it functions like clamping a jump starter directly to the battery except its already hard-wired in. No clamps. No accessing the battery necesary. No messing with thefuse panel. Just plug in and pop the frunk or start the Car, it works like so well because it connects at the battery terminals, it energizes the entire car as if the car has fully charged battery.Benefits of This Method
- Works consistently direct battery connection means full power delivery- Simple installation loosen battery nuts, slide ring terminals behind loosened nuts, retighten, route to passenger-side frunk/windshield junction, and tuck away (includes weather cap)
- No fuse panel access required
- No guessing about ground connections since it has a perfect ground when connected to MICRO-START XP-20
- Provides stronger, more direct power to the frunk release mechanism
If you have a Porsche Lithium Battery (992 models), the XP-20 can also wake up the lithium battery from sleep/protection mode which can be a massive benefit and allow you to get a charrge back into the Porsche Factory Lithium Battery.
Here's the Links to these product....
XP-20 Jump Starter:
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...-starts/xp-20/ we have a heavy duty version of the XP-20 called the XP-20-HD... it has a 24,000mah battery compared to a 20,000mah battery ( more power more capacity)
Clampless Harness Kit:
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...arness-msa10c/
On the Charger Issue
Make sure your charger has automatic power reset. If your house/garage loses power, your charger should automatically resume charging when power returns using the same settings as before. Without this feature, you could return to a fully discharged battery. Our Antigravity Super Chargers have this built in. If power goes out, they automatically resume charging when power returns. They also feature: Digital display with real-time voltage and current read out, no more dummy light LEDs. Charges Lead/AGM and Lithium batteries and does alot more, its a significant upgrade over older-style chargers like traditional CTEK units.Super Charger:
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...hargers/sc-10/
Thanks. I actually ordered your SC10 yesterday on Amazon.ca. Im in canada so it takes a while to get here.
Just tried another higher powered battery booster. Same friggin thing. Frunk wont open.
OP, have you tried attaching the negative cable of your booster to an unpainted surface, maybe the door latch?
DaveGee
Not sure which seat bolt youre referring to. But the clips are too large to reach into here if thats what you mean.
What a stupid thing to put the mechanical frunk release in a spot that you have to remove the friggn wheel to get to. Plus you cant remove the wheel without the lock which is in the trunk.
Surreal.
Got the trunk open. But of course as others have mentioned the Porsche tender doesnt seem to be able to charge the battery.
FML and this stupid lithium battery.
or is it more a crap shoot depending on the state of the battery?
or is it more a crap shoot depending on the state of the battery?
DaveGee
The Best Porsche Posts for Porsche Enthusiasts
Now, whether you can get that lithium ion battery to start charging, thats another story. I remember from the past there are YouTube videos about that.
Last edited by nyca; Feb 15, 2026 at 07:06 PM.
Last edited by nyca; Feb 15, 2026 at 07:29 PM.
i don’t think Porsche did a good job w cold weather testing which replicates the usage patterns of many of their 911 992 customers.
Now, whether you can get that lithium ion battery to start charging, thats another story. I remember from the past there are YouTube videos about that.
For some reason it was glowing red exclamation (implying reverse polarity) but when I put it into boost mode saw a quick spark that scared the ****e out of me but then the battery woke up and I was able to start the 911.
Drove it for about 20 minutes then put it back in the garage and plugged in the tender which seems to be charging this time.
Will see tomorrow. Of course Im gone for 5 days so hopefully it keeps charging and doesnt fail like the last time before my Antigravity tender comes in.
Thanks everyone for the advice and help.
For some reason it was glowing red exclamation (implying reverse polarity) but when I put it into boost mode saw a quick spark that scared the ****e out of me but then the battery woke up and I was able to start the 911.
Drove it for about 20 minutes then put it back in the garage and plugged in the tender which seems to be charging this time.
Will see tomorrow. Of course Im gone for 5 days so hopefully it keeps charging and doesnt fail like the last time before my Antigravity tender comes in.
Thanks everyone for the advice and help.
Didn't get to your post in time ,but the dewalt or another Jumper that can produce a solid voltage and current will wake up a Lithium Battery from its sleep protection mode... usually easier than doing the frunk opening procedure. The problem is that it that once awakened your over-discharged Lithium Battery has to deal with the Cars system wanting to take it energy since the instrument cluster will turn on and the systems will awaken, plus the battery wants to get its fill of the Charger. So you have to make sure that once you get the battery awake you are not having your key in the ignition or anything on in the car and let the charger do it work without having to feed the cars other, possibly awake, systems. That is why I rant about not using 4- amp Chargers, because a 10-Amp Charger can overcome those extra loads and still keep the charger giving most of its energy to re-charge the battery.
I also recommend after the charger has been on the battery for a few hours pull off the charger and check the voltage with a multimeter at the batteries terminals just to make sure the battery is AWAKE and is actually showing voltage when the charger is not attached. Thats the problem with the LED dummy lights, sometimes you think the battery is charging but it not, and when you check the battery you see 0v or something like 2v.... so the battery actually hasn't been charging..... so just do a double check make sure the battery is accepting and actually showing voltage, then put the charger back on again.
Lastly, if you are going away for two weeks and worried that you power won't stay on or not being able to has it on a charger, you might want to simply detach the battery because then you know the battery won't lose a charge and you won't come back to a dead battery again. I just don't want you having that issue that others have had where they can't wake up the battery at all.... but if you do have power to keep a charger on it.... then you should be good.




