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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 04:52 PM
  #16  
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Similar issue, yet to resolve it…. Dammn Porsche lithium batteries…

https://rennlist.com/forums/992/1502...ger-issue.html

please update this thread if you are able to open the frunk and reset the lithium bms lockout and what you used to do so. Thanks.

Last edited by Silver911t; Feb 15, 2026 at 04:55 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 05:06 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Antigravity
About Opening the Frunk on a Modern Porsche…

As many have mentioned, you can pop the frunk using a jump starter or a well-charged motorcycle/car battery by connecting to the red bus in the fuse panel and a good ground. Often you’ll also need to use the key fob rather than the interior switch. The issue is that this method does not always work reliably.

Common reasons:
- The jump starter may not be fully charged or powerful enough

- The ground connection may not be solid

- And as we found in testing, the wiring through the fuse panel is thin gauge and does not transfer voltage/current as efficiently as you’d expect

So while it can work, it’s not the most dependable solution.

A More Reliable Method....

Back in 2020, after I locked myself out of my GT3RS, we designed a better solution. It’s a simple wiring kit that connects directly to the vehicle’s battery and routes to the passenger-side frunk/windshield junction. If your battery ever goes completely dead, you simply plug in our Antigravity MICRO-START XP-20 (takes about one second), and you can immediately power the car — open the frunk or start the vehicle. We call it the Clampless Harness Kit because it functions like clamping a jump starter directly to the battery — except it’s already hard-wired in. No clamps. No accessing the battery necesary. No messing with thefuse panel. Just plug in and pop the frunk or start the Car, it works like so well because it connects at the battery terminals, it energizes the entire car as if the car has fully charged battery.

Benefits of This Method

- Works consistently — direct battery connection means full power delivery

- Simple installation — loosen battery nuts, slide ring terminals behind loosened nuts, retighten, route to passenger-side frunk/windshield junction, and tuck away (includes weather cap)

- No fuse panel access required

- No guessing about ground connections since it has a perfect ground when connected to MICRO-START XP-20

- Provides stronger, more direct power to the frunk release mechanism

If you have a Porsche Lithium Battery (992 models), the XP-20 can also wake up the lithium battery from sleep/protection mode which can be a massive benefit and allow you to get a charrge back into the Porsche Factory Lithium Battery.

Here's the Links to these product....

XP-20 Jump Starter:
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...-starts/xp-20/ we have a heavy duty version of the XP-20 called the XP-20-HD... it has a 24,000mah battery compared to a 20,000mah battery ( more power more capacity)

Clampless Harness Kit:
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...arness-msa10c/

On the Charger Issue…

Make sure your charger has automatic power reset. If your house/garage loses power, your charger should automatically resume charging when power returns — using the same settings as before. Without this feature, you could return to a fully discharged battery. Our Antigravity Super Chargers have this built in. If power goes out, they automatically resume charging when power returns. They also feature: Digital display with real-time voltage and current read out, no more dummy light LEDs. Charges Lead/AGM and Lithium batteries and does alot more, its a significant upgrade over older-style chargers like traditional CTEK units.

Super Charger:
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...hargers/sc-10/

Thanks. I actually ordered your SC10 yesterday on Amazon.ca. I’m in canada so it takes a while to get here.

Just tried another higher powered battery booster. Same friggin thing. Frunk won’t open.


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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 05:15 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by pbcsd
Thanks. I actually ordered your SC10 yesterday on Amazon.ca. I’m in canada so it takes a while to get here.

Just tried another higher powered battery booster. Same friggin thing. Frunk won’t open.

Please try to reach a different ground point.... I see the hinge is painted black.... see if the cable can go to the seat bolt, try to find unpainted solid ground....you have to have that good ground, they try both the keyfob and the latch on the door sill, when testing I had mixed results but try both always. Then make sure the bypass is working on the Jump Starter so that you KNOW for certain the clamps are LIVE with energy, check with multimeter, and be careful if you press the bypass button because the clamps are live.... they can't shock you being only 12v but they can create sparks an fry things if reverse polarity connected.
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 05:23 PM
  #19  
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Following closely as a fellow lithium battery owner. And waiting for the AG guys to release their solution.

OP, have you tried attaching the negative cable of your booster to an unpainted surface, maybe the door latch?

DaveGee
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 05:32 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Antigravity
Please try to reach a different ground point.... I see the hinge is painted black.... see if the cable can go to the seat bolt, try to find unpainted solid ground....you have to have that good ground, they try both the keyfob and the latch on the door sill, when testing I had mixed results but try both always. Then make sure the bypass is working on the Jump Starter so that you KNOW for certain the clamps are LIVE with energy, check with multimeter, and be careful if you press the bypass button because the clamps are live.... they can't shock you being only 12v but they can create sparks an fry things if reverse polarity connected.
The only unpainted metal is the door latch and of course the cables these boosters come with are way too short.

Not sure which seat bolt you’re referring to. But the clips are too large to reach into here if that’s what you mean.

What a stupid thing to put the mechanical frunk release in a spot that you have to remove the friggn wheel to get to. Plus you can’t remove the wheel without the lock which is in the trunk.

Surreal.



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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 05:44 PM
  #21  
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Okay think the issue was definitely the ground. Used my Volvo XC69 even though it says never to jump another car with it I figured it was safe for this purpose.

Got the trunk open. But of course as others have mentioned the Porsche tender doesn’t seem to be able to charge the battery.

FML and this stupid lithium battery.
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 06:38 PM
  #22  
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@Antigravity Batteries do you think your booster would work to wake the Lithium (and any discounts available on it)?

or is it more a crap shoot depending on the state of the battery?
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 06:49 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by pbcsd
@Antigravity Batteries do you think your booster would work to wake the Lithium (and any discounts available on it)?

or is it more a crap shoot depending on the state of the battery?
Did you try using the Dewalt booster pictured above to wake up your battery?

DaveGee
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 07:01 PM
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What ground did you attach to with the Volvo battery cables? This was never a power issue, that frunk circuit isn’t drawing some monster current load just to pop that latch. So the incomplete ground connection makes sense.

Now, whether you can get that lithium ion battery to start charging, that’s another story. I remember from the past there are YouTube videos about that.

Last edited by nyca; Feb 15, 2026 at 07:06 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 07:22 PM
  #25  
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Maybe you can try what this video shows. Attach the charger which will not work on the sleeping battery. Then, for a few moments, attach the Volvo jumper cables to it also and see if it will wake-up and start drawing from the charger.


Last edited by nyca; Feb 15, 2026 at 07:29 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 07:34 PM
  #26  
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Watching this carefully because I also have the same problem as my car waits asleep in 10F weather

i don’t think Porsche did a good job w cold weather testing which replicates the usage patterns of many of their 911 992 customers.
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 07:56 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by nyca
What ground did you attach to with the Volvo battery cables? This was never a power issue, that frunk circuit isn’t drawing some monster current load just to pop that latch. So the incomplete ground connection makes sense.

Now, whether you can get that lithium ion battery to start charging, that’s another story. I remember from the past there are YouTube videos about that.
The only metal I could reach which was the door joint (like in the video I posted above). Agree I think the issue is it was a painted part. Not sure why most of the videos showing how to jump the frunk show people connecting the ground there.


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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 11:23 PM
  #28  
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Do you have another car? Get jumper cables and power the fuse box in the traditional manner. And use the door latch striker or other unpainted bare metal surface.
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 11:32 PM
  #29  
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Okay. Got it to start using the Nico GB20. Hooked up the red to the red battery terminal and the black to a bare metal bolt/nut near the battery.

For some reason it was glowing red exclamation (implying reverse polarity) but when I put it into boost mode saw a quick spark that scared the ****e out of me but then the battery woke up and I was able to start the 911.

Drove it for about 20 minutes then put it back in the garage and plugged in the tender which seems to be charging this time.

Will see tomorrow. Of course I’m gone for 5 days so hopefully it keeps charging and doesn’t fail like the last time before my Antigravity tender comes in.

Thanks everyone for the advice and help.
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 12:36 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by pbcsd
Okay. Got it to start using the Nico GB20. Hooked up the red to the red battery terminal and the black to a bare metal bolt/nut near the battery.

For some reason it was glowing red exclamation (implying reverse polarity) but when I put it into boost mode saw a quick spark that scared the ****e out of me but then the battery woke up and I was able to start the 911.

Drove it for about 20 minutes then put it back in the garage and plugged in the tender which seems to be charging this time.

Will see tomorrow. Of course I’m gone for 5 days so hopefully it keeps charging and doesn’t fail like the last time before my Antigravity tender comes in.

Thanks everyone for the advice and help.
Thats great news!

Didn't get to your post in time ,but the dewalt or another Jumper that can produce a solid voltage and current will wake up a Lithium Battery from its sleep protection mode... usually easier than doing the frunk opening procedure. The problem is that it that once awakened your over-discharged Lithium Battery has to deal with the Cars system wanting to take it energy since the instrument cluster will turn on and the systems will awaken, plus the battery wants to get its fill of the Charger. So you have to make sure that once you get the battery awake you are not having your key in the ignition or anything on in the car and let the charger do it work without having to feed the cars other, possibly awake, systems. That is why I rant about not using 4- amp Chargers, because a 10-Amp Charger can overcome those extra loads and still keep the charger giving most of its energy to re-charge the battery.

I also recommend after the charger has been on the battery for a few hours pull off the charger and check the voltage with a multimeter at the batteries terminals just to make sure the battery is AWAKE and is actually showing voltage when the charger is not attached. Thats the problem with the LED dummy lights, sometimes you think the battery is charging but it not, and when you check the battery you see 0v or something like 2v.... so the battery actually hasn't been charging..... so just do a double check make sure the battery is accepting and actually showing voltage, then put the charger back on again.

Lastly, if you are going away for two weeks and worried that you power won't stay on or not being able to has it on a charger, you might want to simply detach the battery because then you know the battery won't lose a charge and you won't come back to a dead battery again. I just don't want you having that issue that others have had where they can't wake up the battery at all.... but if you do have power to keep a charger on it.... then you should be good.
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